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[F135]Fear I Love Livin In The City
by Levi Reiss, Lev
The sixth arrondissement of central Paris is located on the Left Bank of the Seine River. Its area is a bit more than a square mile (over 2 square kilometers) with a population of 45,000 and slightly fewer jobs. Along with its neighbor the 5th arrondissement, the 6th is often known as the Quartier Latin (Latin Quarter) although it's been a long time since you can hear much spoken Latin in either district. It is home to the famous Saint-Germain-des-Pres. In the years following World War II this was the intellectual center of the world; home to philosophers such as Jean-Paul Sartre and Simone de Beauvoir. Later on we'll talk about the district's world-famous cafes that they frequented.

On the subject of intellectuals, this arrondissement is home to l'Academie Francaise (the French Academy), the watchdog over the French language. Personally I'm a strong believer in keeping the French language French and avoiding Franglais. The Academy was founded in 1635 by Louis XIII's famous chief minister, Cardinal Richelieu. It was suppressed by the French Revolution but brought back by Napoleon. The academy is an advisory body with no power to punish the many people and institutions that disrespect the French language. It holds only forty seats, some of which may be vacant waiting for a candidate acceptable to the sitting members. Normally membership is for life but some malfaiteurs (wrong doers) have been expelled; for example, those associated with the collaborationist Vichy regime during World War II.

Since its inception the Academy has accepted a mere four female members, starting with the writer Marguerite Yourcenar elected in 1980. Some very famous writers including Moliere, Zola, and Proust never achieved membership. Male members, except for clergy, get to wear a sword with their Academy outfit. In 1778 the Academy initiated a historical dictionary of the French language. It abandoned the project before getting to the Bs. The Academy's dictionary is partially in the ninth edition. The Academy Francaise has been fairly successful in persuading people to use French words such as logiciel instead of the corresponding English words, in this case software. It rules on grammar issues and offers prestigious prizes in literature, cinema, translation, and other fields.

The Cafe de Flore on the Boulevard Saint-Germain is a historic intellectual cafe and offers an annual literary award. The nearby cafe Les Deux Magots named for two wooden Chinese statues near the entrance is also a literary and intellectual center with its own annual literary award. It has been decades that these cafes are too expensive for all but the wealthiest intellectuals.

The French Senate is the upper house of the French Parliament. Until recently senators were elected for nine-year terms; now their terms are only six years. Senators are not elected by the general public but by one hundred fifty thousand local elected officials such as mayors and city councilors. The Senate tends to be more conservative than France's lower house, the National Assembly. Besides proposing bills and voting on them the Senate publishes reports and so serves to monitor the government. The senate sits in the beautiful Palais du Luxembourg (Luxemburg Palace) in back of the Jardin du Luxembourg (Luxemburg Gardens) the largest garden in the city. This spectacular garden is open to the public and is a favorite of young children and their parents.

If you are looking for a hotel in the sixth district you might consider the Art Deco Hotel Lutetia, built by the neighboring Bon Marche department store in 1910. Its guest list included Charles de Gaulle and Pablo Picasso. When World War II broke out many artists and musicians took residence there. After France's surrender the hotel housed German military officers. Following the liberation of Paris in August, 1944 this hotel became a repatriation center for prisoners of war and concentration camp inmates. Subsequently it was transformed into a luxury hotel.

The Monnaie de Paris (Paris Mint) not only produces coins and medals, it has a great collection of ancient coins. This beautiful French Neoclassical building was constructed in the latter Eighteenth Century. While it is open to the public it does not furnish samples.

If you are hungry check out the historic Cremerie-Restaurant Polidor, which hasn't changed its name, interior, or cooking style for over one hundred years. Most patrons sit at shared tables so you may get a chance to converse with local students, especially if your French is good. Former diners include Ernest Hemingway, James Joyce, and Jack Kerouac as well as major French writers.

You may remember from your high school French that Pont Neuf means new bridge. Pont Neuf is the oldest bridge across the Seine River in Paris. It crosses the western end of the Ile de la Cite linking Paris's Left and Right Banks. Construction began in 1578 and was completed a mere 41 years later, in part because of the Wars of Religion. The original wooden pilings that support the foundations still remain. In contrast to previous Parisian bridges this one didn't support houses. It did have sidewalks protecting pedestrians from mud and horses. For centuries the homeless have slept under its arches, despite its interdiction, in all fairness to both rich and poor. If you are a statue lover be sure to see the bronze statue of Henri IV, destroyed during the French Revolution but rebuilt afterwards using bronze from statues of Napoleon.

Saint-Sulpice is the second largest church in Paris, smaller than its well-known rival Notre Dame de Paris. This church, built from 1646 to at least 1732 replaces a Thirteenth Century Romanesque church. Detractors claim that its two towers are mismatched; why not take a look to see for yourself? It is home to a great organ. Saint-Sulpice Church has hosted life cycle events of some famous French people; for example the baptism of Charles Baudelaire and the Marquis de Sade, and the marriage of Victor Hugo and Adele Foucher. Saint-Sulpice has a huge sundial that helped to determine Easter's calendar date. This scientific instrument may well have saved the church from being demolished during the French Revolution. Saint-Sulpice is a featured location in the novel The Da Vinci Code. But the church scenes of this movie were not filmed on location.

Of course you don't want to tour Paris without sampling fine French wine and food. In my article I Love French Wine and Food ' A Red Cotes du Rhone I reviewed such a wine and suggested a sample menu: Start with Fois Gras de Canard (Duck Liver Pate). For your second course savor Caillette (Pork-Liver Meat Loaf). And as dessert indulge yourself with Sorbet (Sherbert) and fresh fruit. Your Parisian sommelier (wine steward) will be happy to suggest appropriate wines to accompany each course.

The tenth arrondissement is located on the Right Bank in northeastern Paris. Its total land area is a bit more than 1.1 square mile (somewhat less than 3 square kilometers). The district's population is under ninety thousand and provides about seventy-two thousand jobs. Two of its major attractions are railway stations. If you haven't seen a grandiose railway station such as in Europe or Manhattan's Grand Central Station, you really should visit some of Paris's offerings such as described below.

This arrondissement is not particularly well known to tourists. However, if you visit here you may get a feel for the real Paris, the Paris of Parisians. You might start by viewing the Canal Saint-Martin, which links the Seine River with northeastern Paris. This 2.8 mile (4.5 kilometer) long canal was built from 1806 to 1825 under the orders of Napoleon Bonaparte. Believe it or not, in some places it is only about three feet (one meter) deep. It came close to disappearing in the 1960s and might have become just another highway. While there is some canal traffic, mostly it's a place to view the boats and the locks. Recently this neighborhood has become quite trendy. In 1938 the Canal Saint-Martin was featured in the famous movie Hotel du Nord. And in 2001 it was once again featured in the movie Amelie. The nearby streets are car-free for the later part of Saturday and all day Sunday giving the area a unique cachet.

The Gare de l'Est (East Station) is one of the largest and the oldest railway stations in Paris. Approximately 34 million passengers per year pass through the Gare de l'Est per year, making it the fifth-busiest station in Paris. I wonder how many of these passengers have seen the beautiful statue representing the city of Strasbourg at the west end of the station and how many have seen the statue representing the city of Verdun at the east end of the station. It's a magnificent building with lovely artwork throughout. For example, the arcade includes representations of agricultural products and the coat of arms of over thirty cities in eastern France. The ticketing hall includes a large painting of soldiers leaving in 1914 for the Great War. Both these cities are served by this station, first opened in 1849. Perhaps its most famous train was the Orient Express to Istanbul which first opened in 1883. Times have changed. The Orient Express no longer goes to Paris or Istanbul. Some of these new lines are scheduled to run at almost two hundred miles (three hundred twenty kilometers) an hour and promise to be about ten per cent faster in the future. The station is undergoing extensive renovation; for example, removing ugly plastic that covered beautiful marble for decades.

The Gare du Nord (North Station) handles about 180 million travelers a year. It is the busiest station in Europe, and the third busiest railway station in the world. It was first built in 1846 but already partially demolished in 1860 to permit extensive expansion. The old facade is now in the northern city of Lille. The new, mid-1860s, Neoclassical railway station includes 23 statues representing destinations; the international destinations are more imposing than the national ones. The station was expanded several times and is served by several subway lines. In 2007 the station was the site of a riot that several hundred people and lasted for eight hours. The Gare du Nord has starred in several French films including Les Poupees russes (The Russian Dolls) and American movies such as The Bourne Identity, The Bourne Ultimatum, and Ocean's Twelve.

Some of the other sights to see in this district are the Porte Saint Denis and Porte Saint Martin erected by order to Louis XIV to celebrate military victories, the Musee de l'Eventail (Fan Museum), Musee de Cristal de Baccarat (Baccarat Crystal Museum), and, for a change of pace, the Place du Colonel Fabien, headquarters of the French Communist Party designed by a famous Brazilian (Communist) architect, Oscar Niemeyer, named in honor of a resistance hero of World War II. A more traditional Place (Square) is the Place de la Republique that is often the site of political or other demonstrations.

Of course you don't want to visit Paris without sampling fine French wine and food. In my article I Love French Wine and Food - A Midi Merlot I reviewed such a wine and suggested a sample menu: Start with Roque Anchois (Anchovies with Tomato, Spices, Vinegar, and Olive Oil). For your second course you should try Tagine de Lotte (Monkfish Stew). And as dessert indulge yourself with Crème Catalan (Crème brulee with Orange Flower and Aniseed). Your Parisian sommelier (wine steward) will be happy to suggest appropriate wines for each course.
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Levi Reiss has sinced written about articles on various topics from Touring Italy, Travel and Leisure and Food and Drink. Levi Reiss has authored or co-authored ten books on computers and the Internet, but between you and me, he prefers drinking fine German, Italian, or other wine, accompanied by the right foods and the right people. He knows what dieting is, and is glad tha. Levi Reiss's top article generates over 450000 views. to your Favourites.
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