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To get a polished look, I suggest you use concealer, foundation, powder, lipstick, and perhaps mascara. For a more striking appearance, you may want to add eyeliner, eye shadow, lip liner, and blush. But the goal is not to look painted it's to enhance your true beauty. How much makeup you use is a matter of personal preference. Here's what you need to know about choosing and using the right cosmetics. The product recommendations in this chapter include my own suggestions and those of women of color makeup artists I've consulted.
Concealer Clues. The purpose of concealer is to conceal or camouflage darker areas of the face (such as the under-eye area) and blemished or blotchy spots. The color of your concealer should be a shade lighter than your foundation-that is, a shade lighter than your natural skin tone. After cleansing, moisturizing (if needed), and applying sunscreen to your face, dot concealer in your trouble spots. Use a light touch too much concealer can give your complexion an uneven, cakey look. You can use a damp makeup sponge or your fingers to blend in. Don't rush the blending process take your time to get the right, even-toned look. Try a MAC concealer or Bobbi Brown or MAC full coverage foundation as concealer.
Foundation Facts. Foundation is used to even out skin tone and give your face a smooth appearance. Choosing the correct color is crucial, so be sure to test a product before you buy it. To do this, have the makeup consultant apply the foundation to your entire face, and take a good look at your skin in natural light. If the foundation blends in and disappears, thus appearing natural, it's the right color. A too light foundation may make your skin look ashen. Take a closer look to make sure the foundation's undertone is not too red, orange, or yellow. If the color does not match, keep trying other shades, either from that line of cosmetics or from an altogether different line, until you find the one that most closely approximates your skin tone.
The next step is to make sure you've chosen a foundation for your skin type.
This is important because the wrong type can make the skin look dull or too shiny or worse, like you're wearing a mask. Foundations come in different forms liquid, cream, cream-to-powder, and stick, matte and moisturizing formulas. If you have acne, you'll need a light oil-free foundation that doesn't clog your pores and trigger a breakout. Avoid oil based products, such as those often found in compacts, and opt for nonacnegenic or noncomedogenic products instead. Whatever your skin type, you may need to switch products when the seasons change or if you move to a dry climate.
For oily skin. Look for oil free or water based foundations, or a foundation and powder in one compact. Matte or semi matte formulas will look best on your skin. If you have very oily skin, don't forget to use a toner before applying any makeup and blot oily areas during the day with tissue. Try Estee Lauder's Double Matte Foundation· for oil control. Avon's Clear Finish Oil Free Foundation, an antiacne treatment that contains salicylic acid, is perfect for acne prone skin as well as oily skin.
For normal combination skin. A water based foundation should suit your needs. If you have T-zone skin and your cheeks become especially dry, experiment with water and oil combination products. Semi-matte formulas will look best.
For dry skin. Opt for moisturizing foundations that contain some amount of oil or a combination of oil and water but only if you are not acne prone. These often come in cream or liquid form. For acne prone skin, oil free foundation is still best. Just apply a moisturizer before applying your foundation.
For sensitive skin. As always, choose hypoallergenic products that are free of potential irritants. A light, water-based foundation should do.
For hyper pigmenting skin. Since this skin type is prone to the development of dark marks, camouflaging the marks with foundation is essential. Consider using a foundation stick, such as Black Opal Stick Foundation, or a foundation in a compact, such as MAC Studio Fix Powder Foundation, for more complete coverage.
Though makeup does fade during the course of the day, you still need to remove it thoroughly at night, especially if the makeup is oil based. If you don't completely remove your makeup daily, it can attract dirt, clog pores, and cause breakouts. Women who use water based products may be able to remove all of the makeup with the same cleanser used on the face in the morning. However, oil based makeup used on dry or combination skin will need. to be removed with a makeup removal product. One brand to try is Dermablend Remover/Nettoyant.
Makeup removers are formulated for skin type. Once you've selected one for your skin, apply the product according to instructions. You may need to leave it on your skin for several minutes to give it time to dissolve the cosmetics. Use tissue or cotton balls to gently wipe away the residue. Cotton swabs may be more useful for the sensitive eye area (but avoid cotton if you wear contact lenses). Take care not to tug or pull at your skin. If makeup does not come off, you may need to apply additional remover or switch to a more effective product. Women with sensitive skin should avoid products containing irritants such as alcohol and fragrance.
To make makeup removal easier and less time consuming, you may want to avoid using "waterproof" products like mascara. "Water resistant" mascara does not last as long and may smudge more readily, but it is more easily removed than a waterproof product. (Also, how often do you go swimming with mascara on?) Pencil and powder eyeliner or eyebrow makeup will be easier to remove than liquid products. (If you wear contact lenses, look for eye makeup labeled "for contact-lens wearers" to avoid irritation.) Your choice of makeup formulas depends, of course, on personal preference, but consider the time you're willing to devote to makeup removal before you buy.
Makeup and Allergies
Occasionally, makeup ingredients can trigger allergic reactions. These reactions most commonly occur on the upper and lower eyelids from eye makeup such as eyeliner and mascara because of the preservatives these products contain. Signs you may have a makeup allergy may also include a rash, swelling, or excessive wrinkling of the skin around the eyes. Also, you may develop a sudden breakout on the skin or a rash around the lips (owing to dye in some lipsticks). If you notice a reaction, stop using the product immediately. Take an antihistamine to relieve symptoms if the reaction persists. If reactions continue no matter what product you use, schedule an appointment with a dermatologist or an allergist. The physician can administer an allergy patch test to determine what specifIc ingredient your skin may be reacting to. One way to avoid potential triggers of allergic reaction is to patch test the product on your skin before use. If you are allergic to your mascara, you might try applying a small amount of petroleum jelly (Vaseline) to lashes for a fuller, thicker appearance.