On a lawn, however, the tree must compete with the grass for moisture and nutrients, and the leaves are raked up to prevent grass disorders, so that the successful gardener finds it wise to supply nutrients every two or three years.
Feeding should be done when the ground is workable, in the spring or in the fall.A difficult but worthwhile method of feeding is to strip the sod from an area all around the tree extending at least 2 to 3 feet beyond the outer branches, since the root system extends this far.
Apply stable or barnyard manure to this area, spreading it 3 inches thick and digging it in. Then firm the soil, rake it level and return the sod.
An easier method is to drill holes over the same area, 12 to 18 inches deep and spaced about 15 inches apart. Fill each hole with a commercial fertilizer (made up of bone meal, tankage, peat moss or humus) plus chemicals, in a formula containing 10% nitrogen, 6% phosphoric acid and 4% potash.
Because of the transpiration of a tree, especially in the hot days of summer, lawn and specimen trees must be watered at least every 10 days in summer to avoid trouble. Since the roots are deep, light watering won't do. The hose or sprinkler should be used for at least an hour.
If the soil is hard packed, loosen it with a fork. For a large tree, drive or bore a number of 1 1/2 inch holes 3 to 5 inches deep and 3 feet apart, below the outer branches. Use a canvas hose or cover the hose with a gunny sack and let the water run.
When planting new trees or small trees, if you put a few pieces of drain tile in the hole and put the hose in these, you can insure the water reaching the subsoil. Cover the drain-tile holes with stones to avoid evaporation.
Certain trees will not live long if a fill of soil is laid over their roots, or if a terrace of blacktop, stone, brick or concrete paving blocks is laid over their feeding roots. Large, valuable trees should be protected with drain tile so that they will get water and air. The bark should be protected from dirt from a fill directly against it. You can buy metal tree wells, 3 to 7 feet across and 1 to 3 feet high, or build a masonry wall.
The wall can be capped with a circle of bricks or a low wall to make an extra seat on the terrace. If you have some surface other than sod or earth around the tree, see that it does not extend as far as the tree's outer feeding roots, and leave a circle of natural soil around the trunk. This can be planted.
Care for your trees as injuries occur rather than wait to call in a tree surgeon and allow a weakened spot to remain untreated. Remove all dead, decayed, diseased or injured bark.
Do this by removing the entire limb, or, on a large limb or trunk, dig out the decayed matter, sterilizing and waterproofing the cut surfaces with creosote and liquid tar.
White lead or paint is not as good to use as it will not seal when used on damp surfaces. Fill deep wounds with concrete. Use pruning hooks carefully, avoiding bruises.
One of the critical factors in ensuring that your shrubs and trees develop well in your landscape garden is that you make sure that wind damage is vastly reduced. Landscaping Trees in a Landscape Garden can be seriously damaged by heavy winds in various ways. One of the simplest ways to to decrease wind damage is by utilizing Tree Shelters and Other Protection.
Tree Shelters and Other Protection can drastically decrease damage to new shoots, buds and leaves by creating a full or partial barrier to the wind. Prevailing winds rock the trees forwards and backwards causing damage to the roots especially the fibrous roots, this, together with the fact that winds also increase osmosis, means that trees easily become seriously dehydrated. Tree Shelters and Windbreak Netting are low priced items of garden equipment so why penny pinch? In the end it will most probably work out more costly in the long term if you do without them.
Sheltering garden trees and shrubs in really exposed areas can be very difficult and you will, more than likely, decide that it would be best to use both windbreak netting and tree shelters together. By following this advice you will discover that you have manufactured something rather the same as a controlled environment, these wonderful gadgets also help in stabilizing the surrounding air temperature by acting as insulation ( because most types have twin walls). Also, because they are made from an amazingly strong and long lasting type of clear or opaque polyethylene the resulting tree shelters are considerably lighter than if an alternative substance was used. They are really easy to flat pack resulting in transportation which is easy and cheap, even heavy weight designs remain light weight.
If you reside in a seaside location you will discover that tree shelters are also an extremely effective solution for the problem of damage caused by salt. Protecting against damage caused by salt is, most probably the only way to make sure that some species of tree survive in seaside locations. Windbreak netting is also a cool, easy way to increase protection against salt damage. Windbreak netting is also good for reducing sunlight in sunny positions as it restricts sunlight by 40 to 50%.
Tree Shelters and Other Protection are also advisable if you reside in a location where animals are a problem. Tree shelters can stop any damage caused by browsing creatures such as dear, rabbits etc. The spiral types have been designed for this reason and are most probably the most logical. Windbreak netting is not likely to stop rabbits because it is usually made from a mesh of polyethylene but it will most probnably stop other animals.
Both Abhishek Abrol & Francis Blair are contributors for EditorialToday. The above articles have been edited for relevancy and timeliness. All write-ups, reviews, tips and guides published by EditorialToday.com and its partners or affiliates are for informational purposes only. They should not be used for any legal or any other type of advice. We do not endorse any author, contributor, writer or article posted by our team.
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