Rann of Kutch (Gujarat, India) The desert is not always a waste. Head for the 18,000 sq km area in the north of Gujarat to find out how much of a waste it isn't. The Great Rann was originally an extension of the Arabian Sea, closed off by centuries of silting. In Alexander the Great's time it was a navigable lake, but it is now an extensive mudflat, inundated during the monsoon. No visitor to the Great Rann has yet been disappointed; it's a stark and strange terrain you won't ever forget. There's a lot to see in the nearest town, Bhuj, as well: the 18th-century Aina Mahal in the old part of the city, the cenotaphs complex at Chattaradi, and the ancient seaport of Mandvi among other. Kutch is, of course the center of a rich craft tradition, which you can view in the bungalow of James McMurdo. The ghost town of Lakhpat is 151 km from Bhuj. You can fly to Bhuj from Mumbai twice a week ($125) as well as from Ahmedabad. There are direct trains from both places to New Bhuj Railway Station. You can also drive, or take state transport buses or luxury coaches. These and auto rickshaws and taxies, are available to all centers in Gujarat. There are no five-star deluxe hotels in Kutch, but there are a number of comfortable hotels. Try Hotel Prince (new Station Road; 02832-20370). Plenty of tour operators offer well-trodden tourist circuits, but you can also choose to chalk out your own route. Since this is a border area, you need a (easily obtained) permit from the Collector's office in Bhuj, off College road. THIS PART OF THE ARABIAN SEA WAS CLOSED OFF BY CENTURIES OF SILTING. IT'S A STARK AND STRANGE TERRAIN YOU WON'T FORGET The Great Rann is the winter home of migratory flamingoes when they arrive near Khavda. It's the largest flamingo colony in the world. If you can, time your visit with the Kutch Mahotsav in February; it's a spectacle worth the trip. You'll need light woolens.
Nubra Valley (Himachal Pradesh, India)
Beyond the world's highest motor able stretch across the Khardung la (5,578m) lies the beautiful Nubra Valley bordering the Karakoram Range, opened to visitors only in 1994 (you need a permit, easily available in Leh). Hot springs, gompas, and walks await you. Fly from Delhi to Leh ($100), and then take a bus to either Diskit or Panamik, the two main villages in Nubra (IO-hr ride, $25). You can rent jeeps from the Leh Taxi Operators? Union ($110 to Nubra + $10 nights? charge; 01982-53309). There is accommodation at the guesthouses in both villages. Be warned Nubra in winter is not for everyone. This is not the tourist season and facilities will be shut. But if you like extremes pack your bags.
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Horse Safaris, Rajasthan
Amid the havelis of Shekhawati, the fort at Nawalgarh is the base for Shekhawati Brigade Horse Safaris. A well-oiled operation brings you the best of riding experiences: 22 Marwari, Kathiawadi and Sindhi horses can take you cross-country in unspoilt terrain. A team of one outrider, an ex-army cooks, a camp in charge, and folk musicians escort you through semi-desert terrain, forests, salt lakes, marshes and flat grasslands. Camp is a luxurious affair, though you must bring your own chaps, helmet and boots. Confident riders best enjoy this holiday, though there's no bar against beginners; you'll cover 25-40 km a day. In November, you can join the Pushkar Fair Horse Safari (3-17 November, 8N/9D).
Pushkar Resort
And you thought it would be all sand. Try15 acres of green, 40 luxury airconditioned cottages with private sit-outs (single $50, double $60), restaurant, conference facility, golf driving range, swimming pool, a royal Kafila safari, telescopic star gazing, ayurvedic massages, sand volleyball, traditional Rajasthani performances? you can visit Pushkar's sites of interest and crafts-shop till you drop. If you can make it in time for the Pushkar camel fair (November 16-19 this year) it's well worth it. GETTING THERE from Delhi takes the NH-8 (400km, 7hrs) to Ajmer or the Shatabdi (Ajmer station is 11 km from the resort). You can also fly to Jaipur (130km/ 2.5hrs away) and drive down from there. Just ask for Motisar Road, Pushkar.
Chambal Valley The famous Chambal ravines, home to dacoits and gharial, are the ultimate badlands? with a difference. If you drive just over an hour from Gwalior, you hit the rich archaeological sites of the Chambal valley- Morena, the circular temple of Mitawali, Dubkund and Kuno among others. The arid beauty of the land and the dramatic ravines can be very seductive. The forest Department has started river cruises on the Chambal. If water sport is your thing, consider rafting on the Chambal River in the Kota region between Jawahar Sagar and Dholpur. And there is the National Chambal Sanctuary in Morena-repository of the rare Gangetic dolphin, and gharial.
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