If you are planning a European tour, consider the Veneto region of northern Italy on the Gulf of Venice. Venice is its best-known city and one of the most popular tourist destinations on earth. But the Veneto region has a lot more to offer. You'll find many, many excellent tourist attractions and you won't have to fight huge crowds. With a little luck you'll avoid tourist traps and come back home feeling that you have truly visited Italy. This article examines tourist attractions in northern Veneto. Be sure to read our companion articles on southern Veneto, on that Shakespearean city of Verona, and on the university city of Padua.
We start our tour of northern Veneto in Marostica, northeast of Vicenza and northwest of Venice. Then we head basically east, first to Bassano del Grappa, on to Asolo, and finally southeast to Treviso.
Marostica, population about thirteen thousand, is known for two castles: the Castello Inferiore (Lower Castle) a rather unique setting for Town Council meetings and the Castello Superiore (Upper Castle) up the hill. But on the second weekend of September in even years such as 2008 these attractions are eclipsed by the Partita a Scacchi (Chess Game) with human players dressed in medieval costumes. This practice first started in 1454. It seems that two local noblemen Renaldo D. and Vieri da V. fell in love with the beautiful Lionora P., the daughter of the Lord of Marostica. They were ready to duel for the hand of that fair lady. The future father in law, good for him, said no dueling in these parts; if you want to win my daughter you must first win a chess game to be played in the square near the lower castle. The winner will marry Lionora and the loser will marry her younger sister, Oldrada. The whole town showed up to watch the match. Historians have not noted whether Lionora was rooting for the eventual winner or not. The not quite instant replay lasts from Friday night to Sunday and the moves are announced in the local dialect. Marostica is so proud of its cherries that it holds a cherry festival every May and June.
Bassano del Grappa, population about forty thousand, was founded as a Roman agricultural estate more than two thousand years ago. It's a pretty town with old houses and squares at the base of Mt. Grappa. In its own way this mountain protected Italian partisans during World War II. In 1946 the Prime Minister of Italy awarded the city a gold medal for its military valor. This is commemorated every September.
The city is home to many unusual museums. The Poli Grappa Museum is devoted to Grappa, an internationally known distilled liquor. Tastings are free but you had better remember grappa is a lot stronger than wine. The Museo della Cermica's (Ceramics Museum) interesting collection includes several pieces dating back to the Seventeenth and Eighteenth Century. You can purchase local ceramics in many shops in the area. The Museo degli Alpini (Alpine Museum) honors Italian Alpine Troops. The Town Museum displays archaeological remains, several paintings by well-known historical local artists, and drawings by Albrecht Dürer and Rembrandt.
Bassano del Grappa hosts many historic churches including the Eleventh Century Duomo (Cathedral) renovated several hundred years later, the Thirteenth Century Church of San Donato said to be visited by both St Francis of Assisi and St Anthony of Padua, the Twelfth Century Church of St. Francis, and the Fourteenth Century Church of St. John the Baptist restored in the Eighteenth Century.
The city's best-known monument is the Ponte degli Alpini (Alpine Bridge) over the Brenta River. This lovely bridge was designed in the Sixteenth Century by the architect Andrea Palladio to replace one constructed in the Thirteenth Century. You may know that Palladio was said to be the most influential person in the history of Western architecture. Read more about him and his work in the companion article I Love Touring Italy - Southern Veneto. Palladio's bridge was destroyed in 1748 and rebuilt three years later. What you see today was reconstructed after World War II from Palladio's design.
Asolo home to some seventy five hundred people is known as "The Pearl of the Province of Treviso", and as "The City of a Hundred Horizons". Asolo is associated with the Italian verb "Asolare" which means passing time in a delightful but meaningless way. The famous British poet Robert Browning surely agreed with delightful, but not with meaningless; here in the Nineteenth Century he wrote Asolando, his final volume of poetry. Other famous writers including Elizabeth Barret Browning, Ernest Hemingway, and Henry James visited or lived this town.
Atop the town sits a converted monastery that now houses a university: CIMBA (The International Consortium for Management and Business Analysis). Students from all over the world live, work, and study in Asolo while earning their MBA. CIMBA has a sister campus for undergraduates in Paderno.
Treviso, population about eighty thousand, has had a long and bloody history. It was close to the site of an important battle in World War I and the site of a concentration camp in World War II. During that war the medieval city was heavily damaged with quite a loss of life. Despite massive destruction its center is still something to see. Treviso is home to the famous designer Benetton and has enough canals to merit the nickname "Little Venice".
Start your tour at the Piazza dei Signori (Square of the Gentlemen), the medieval town center, with several buildings of interest including the Twelfth Century Palazzo dei Trecento (Town Hall). Close by you'll find the Pescheria (Fish Market) sitting on an island in the canal.
Among the churches to see is the Late Romanesque-Early Gothic Twelfth Century Church of San Francesco (Saint Francis), used by Napoleonic troops as a stable. It contains several paintings and frescoes of interest and the tombs of Pietro Alighieri, son of Dante, and Francesca Petrarca, daughter of the poet Francesco. The Church of San Nicolò is a mixture of Thirteenth Century Venetian Romanesque and French Gothic elements. It is also loaded with historic frescoes. The Duomo di San Pietro (Saint Peter's Cathedral) was built in the Fifteenth and Sixteenth Centuries on the site of a Romanesque church. Among its artwork is Titian's The Annunciation.
What about food? Treviso is known for many specialties including various pasta and rice dishes with wild herbs and vegetables, such as risotto with wild asparagus (bruscandoi). When gourmets think of Treviso it's often for the local radicchio, perhaps served in risotto. Other dishes that the locals enjoy include bigoli, thick homemade spaghetti served with duck or sausage sauce, risi e bisi (rice with peas), and pasta e fagioli (pasta with beans). Meat and cold cuts are often served with peverada, a strong sauce made with liver and spices. Like several other areas, Treviso claims the famous Italian dessert, tiramisu.
Let's suggest a sample menu, one of many. Start with Sopa Coada (Pigeon and Bread Soup). Then try Ravioli ai Porcini e Ricotta Affumicata (Ravioli with Porcini Mushrooms and Smoked Ricotta Cheese). For dessert indulge yourself with Focaccia alla Ceccobeppe (Flat Bread with Dried Fruit). Make sure to increase your dining pleasure by including local wines with your meal.
We'll conclude with a quick look at Veneto wine. Veneto ranks number three among the 20 Italian regions both for the area planted in grape vines and for its total annual wine production. About 45% of Veneto wine is red or rose, leaving 55% for white. The region produces 24 DOC wines and 3 DOCG wines, Recioto di Soave, Soave Superiore, and Bardolino Superiore. DOC stands for Denominazione di Origine Controllata, which may be translated as Denomination of Controlled Origin, presumably a high-quality wine The G in DOCG stands for Garantita, but there is in fact no guarantee that such wines are truly superior. Almost 30% of Venetian wine carries the DOC or DOCG designation.
Montello e Colli Asolani DOC is produced on the right bank of the Piave River north of Treviso. It comes in many styles made from a variety of local and international grapes. The best known is Prosecco, made from the white Prosecco grape with up to 15% of other white grapes, mostly local, but including Chardonnay. While Prosecco wine may be still or fizzy, it is usually sparkling. And it is usually not very special.
Veneto is located in northeastern Italy on the Gulf of Venice. The region is mountainous with all kinds of water; rivers, lakes, lagoons, and of course, canals. In its heyday, during the Renaissance (Fifteenth and Sixteenth Centuries), the Venetian Republic ruled a large part of northern Italy, and was a major player in the world of commerce and culture. Veneto's present population is about 4.5 million.
Veneto's capital, Venice, is one of the world's top tourist destinations, claiming 60 million visitors a year. Its attractions are too numerous to list here. Venice's neighbor, Padua, is the oldest city in northern Italy. Padua was the home of the famous astronomer Gallileo Gallilei. The metropolitan region encompassing these two cities has over 1.6 million people. Another city of interest is Verona with its numerous Roman and medieval monuments.
Agricultural products include cattle, corn, wheat, sugar beets, and of course grapes. With all the water you can be sure that fish and seafood abound. Rice is more important than pasta, and lovers of sweets will not be disappointed. Industries include textiles, silk, shipbuilding, and sugar refining, but the major industry remains tourism.
Veneto devotes almost 250 thousand acres to grapevines, it ranks 3rd among the 20 Italian regions. Its total annual wine production is almost 180 million gallons, also giving it a 3rd place. About 45% of the wine production is red or ros?, leaving 55% for white. The region produces 24 DOC wines and 3 DOCG wines, Recioto di Soave, Soave Superiore, and Bardolino Superiore. DOC stands for Denominazione di Origine Controllata, which may be translated as Denomination of Controlled Origin, presumably a high-quality wine. The G in DOCG stands for Garantita, but there is in fact no guarantee that such wines are truly superior. Almost 30% of Venetian wine carries the DOC or DOCG designation. Veneto is home to about four dozen major and secondary grape varieties, approximately half white and half red.
Widely grown international white grape varieties include Trebbiano, Chardonnay, and Pinot Bianco, known as Pinot Blanc outside of Italy. The best-known strictly Italian white varieties are Garganega and Prosecco.
Widely grown international red grape varieties include Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot. The best-known strictly Italian red varieties are Corvina, Rondinella, and Molinara.
Before we reviewing the Veneto wine and cheese that we were lucky enough to purchase at a local wine store and a local Italian food store, here are a few suggestions of what to eat with indigenous wine when touring this beautiful region. Start with Pasta e Fasioli; Pasta and Bean Soup. Then try Risotto de Scampi; Scampi Risotto. For dessert indulge yourself with Torta de Paparele; Lemon Tagliatelle Cake.
OUR WINE REVIEW POLICY While we have communicated with well over a thousand Italian wine producers and merchants to help prepare these articles, our policy is clear. All wines that we taste and review are purchased at the full retail price.
Wine Reviewed Corte Gardoni Bianco di Custoza DOC 2004 12.5% alcohol about $8
I'll start with the marketing materials. ?Floral notes mixed with sweet red Delicious apple and Bosc pear aromatics form the inviting and lifted nose. The flavors are quite different with citrus and green apples coming to the fore. It is light to medium-bodied, providing a tangy finish that would pair well with grilled, firm (tuna or sword) fish.? And now for my thoughts.
This wine was first paired to a commercial chicken pot pie with a bit of chili-lime hot sauce. I tasted some apple. It was quite weak at first, but did pick up some strength from sip to sip.
The next meal was more in line with the marketing suggestions, namely grilled salmon filet with oven-baked potato patties and French fries. While there was some apple taste, essentially the wine didn't add anything to the meal. However, it went well with dessert, thin biscuits containing almonds and pistachios.
My next trial included chicken legs in a soy and onion sauce with rice and green beans. The wine was not unpleasant but was light and fleeting.
Montasio cheese is a specialty of the Veneto region. It is made from cow's milk and can have a sharp flavor when it ages. I was happy when the wine was able to handle this strong cheese. It didn't do as well with an Asiago cheese, also from the Veneto area.
Final verdict, I won't be buying this wine again, even at its relatively low price.
Levi Reiss has sinced written about articles on various topics from Touring Italy, Travel and Leisure and Food and Drink. Levi Reiss has authored alone or with a co-author ten computer and Internet books, but to tell the truth, he would really rather just drink fine French, German, or other wine, accompanied by the right foods. He knows what dieting is, and is glad that for. Levi Reiss's top article generates over 450000 views. to your Favourites.