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[F384]Fixing A Chipped Tooth

by John Gygax, Joh

Doors made from badly seasoned timber are particularly prone to warping, though once you have corrected the warp it is unlikely to return. However, in some instances the warping is caused by outside factors - such as a radiator sited too close to the door, or bad ventilation. If you suspect that this is the case, take steps to deal with the external problems or the warp may recur.

If the warp is not too severe, there are several ways of forcing the door against the twist. Some of these, however, require the door to be kept shut and in many cases this is not convenient.

If you can keep the door shut, wedging it shut against the warp for a few days may well prove to be effective.

1. To do this, look along the door to check the extent of the warp. Then, with the door just touching the doorstop, measure the gap between the door and stop at the widest point and cut a wooden block slightly larger than this gap.

2. Fit the block at the point where the door and stop shut, so that it touches the stop at top and bottom. If leaving the door shut isn't possible, you can either try altering the position of the hinge on the door frame to take up the twist (see diagram), or else alter the doorstop. How you do this depends on whether you have a stop which is a separate piece of wood nailed on (planted) or one cut out of the wood of the door frame itself (rebated). If you have a planted stop, close the door and cut a block of wood slightly larger than the widest gap.

3. Run the block down the edge of the door marking the stop with a pencil.

4. Prise the stop off. Loosen with an old chisel then pull away from the frame with your hands.

5. Plane the stop then refit it flush with the door. A rebated stop forms part of the door frame and can't be removed. Instead you have to add a shaped piece to the stop to fill the gap.

To do this, measure the length of the gap between the door and stop. Then measure the width at the widest point.

Cut a wedge to these dimensions (see diagram) and nail it to the stop at the appropriate point. Once the wedge is in position, trim it again until you get a perfect fit.

The remedies above only work if the door has warped at the top or bottom corner. If it has warped in the centre you will have to cut a curved wedge tapered at both ends.

Another way to deal with this problem, if you can remove the door, is to try laying it flat, supported on two chairs, bowed side up.

Place some heavy weights on top and leave it for a few days.

A rattling door is usually an indication that the timber has shrunk and no longer butts tightly against the door stop. This is usually due to either damp or cold. However often if old enough a door could start to rattle just because it is old.

If the gap is fairly small, you may be able to solve the problem simply by sticking a length of self-adhesive draught proofing strip between door and stop. This is of course the easiest fix.

However, if this is not successful, you will need to move the striker plate of the door catch or lock in towards the door stop. This should hold the door shut tightly against the stop. This is no doubt the better fix to the solution as you won't need to leave the unsightly draught strips around the door frames.

Before you deal with the rattle, it's worth remembering that even a badly fitting door will not rattle unless something is making it move; so if you are not aware of any external vibration such as that caused by trains check for draughts. These can usually be found coming from places like air vents or air bricks, window frames or even your attic.

Once you have checked to find the source of the draught or vibrations investigate whether it's cheaper or easier to fix at the source.

If you do decide to fix the door, you will need to gather up a few tools first. You will need a screw driver, a small sharp chisel, wood filler and some glass paper. I also wear work wear too to avoid dirtying my clothing.

1. Begin by marking where the door meets the frame when the door is closed normally, with the catch in its correct position. Then hold the catch in and push the door hard against the stop. Mark where it meets the frame now.

2. Unscrew the striker plate from the door stop and move it in by the same amount as the distance between the two marks.

3. Drill a hole for the bolt of the catch or lock. Then hold the striker plate over it and mark around with a sharp knife.

4. Out the wood inside this line to a shallow depth using a sharp chisel so that you form a new rebate for the striker plate.

5. Screw the plate in position and fill in the old rebate with wood filler.

6. Once the wood filler has dried any excess can be removed and cleaned up with the glass paper.

Once this has been completed you should be free of any annoying rattles that your door gives off, leaving you to enjoy reading the paper, rattle free.

Article Source : Pg. 165

John Gygax has sinced written about articles on various topics from Home Management, Wine and Spirits. Gygax is a DIY enthusiast who wears and. John Gygax's top article generates over 1900 views. to your Favourites.