If you are planning a European tourist destination, you should consider the Calabria region of southern Italy on the Tyrrhenian Sea and the Ionian Sea. Calabria forms the toe of the Italian boot. It boasts excellent tourist attractions, and you won't have to fight crowds, but you may have to fight hot, hot summers. With a little luck you'll avoid tourist traps, and come back home with the feeling that you have truly visited Italy. This article examines tourist attractions in northern Calabria. Be sure to read our companion article on southern Calabria.
Our tour of northern Calabria starts in Diamante, on the western Tyrrhenian coast. Then we head south along the coast as far as Paola and a bit east to Rende. Theoretically we proceed in almost a straight line east, except that the roads are hardly straight and that's part of the fun, to Cosenza, pop up a bit north to the Parco Nazionale della Calabria, and then southwest to Crotone on the eastern Ionic coast. We follow the coastal road north and east to the little town of Cerchiara di Calabria. We turn left (east) and finish our tour in Castrovillari, about forty-five miles (seventy kilometers) northeast of our starting point.
Diamante (can you guess what the name means?) is a beautiful fishing village of about five thousand situated on a protective rock along the Mediterranean Sea. Unlike so much of southern Italy, its climate is sunny and yet mild. It's quite an artist colony, boasting plenty of narrow streets and alleys. Diamante's walls are covered with murals, an old tradition that is still maintained. You'll love the century-old stucco houses and their balconies. You'll never guess which little red objects are hung out to dry on the clotheslines in late summer, red-hot chili peppers. These peperoncini are so much a local specialty that in early September the city holds a Festival de Peperoncini, called "The South's Carnival" that attracts one hundred thousand visitors. You will enjoy dancing in the street, men on stilts, traditional music, and plenty of peroncini-flavored food.
Rende is home to the University of Calabria in the green hills of suburban Cosenza (see below). The city itself has a population of about thirty-five thousand, but the university population is about twenty-five thousand. Stop by on your way to Cosenza; you'll appreciate the cobblestone streets but you may get a bit winded negotiating the staircases and escalators.
Cosenza's native population is some seventy thousand but it almost triples when you take into account the urban area including the University. It is located at the confluence of two rivers: the Crathis and the Busento, home of the legend of the Visigoth King Alaric who in the year 410 captured Rome, the first to do so in over eight hundred years. Naturally he amassed quite some treasure. Two years later he died under unclear circumstances. He was buried with his horse and his treasure under the riverbed; the Busento was temporarily turned aside from its course during the grave digging. Once the tomb was completed, the river was returned to its original site and the tomb covered with water. To ensure that no one would reveal this location Alaric's troops killed all of the slaves. Perhaps not surprisingly neither his grave nor his treasure have ever been found. If you like history you can learn about the multiple occupations of this beautiful city and how it was destroyed and rebuilt time and time again during the first millennium and the following centuries.
Cosenza was once known as the Athens of Calabria. Its academy was founded almost five hundred years ago making it one of the first in Italy. To this day Cosenza is home to numerous libraries, museums, and theatres. It is a very picturesque city about seven hundred feet (two hundred forty meters) above sea level. You'll love the castle and the old town. The Castello Svevo is mostly in ruins, but not for the reasons that you might imagine. First came several earthquakes. Then a lucky (unlucky) lightning strike set off gunpowder stored on the premises.
Nobody is sure when the Duomo (Cathedral) was first built, but estimates favor the mid-Twelfth Century. At that time Calabria was a feudal Norman dukedom and Cosenza was its capital. An earthquake destroyed the cathedral in 1184 but happily it was rebuilt within forty years. It is one of the most interesting such buildings in southern Italy. Over the years there have been many additions (and subtractions) in a multitude of styles including Baroque, Gothic, and Provencal Gothic.
Be sure that you visit the Fifteenth Century Church of San Domenico which combines Renaissance and Medieval elements. Don't miss the rose window with tufa (limestone) columns, the wooden portal decorated with floral motifs, and the high altar made of polychrome marble. Nearby stands the "Convent of the Virgins" which boasts many historic paintings. Other Cosenza churches include the Church and Monastery of Saint Francis of Assisi, and the Sixteenth Century Church of Sant'Agostino, also known as the Spirito Santo. In this area in 1844 the famous Italian patriots, the Bandiera Brothers, were executed during the struggle for Italian independence.
Of course the new city won't be nearly as interesting as the old town. But it includes an open-air museum Museo all'aperto Bilotti which was named for the guy with the checkbook. The sculptures include Saint George and the Dragon by Salvador Dalì.
Would you believe that there's plenty of good skiing in southern Italy? The Sila is a vast forested kilometer high plateau in the Calabrian interior. This is the largest such formation in all Europe. It is split into three parts and forms the Parco Nazionale della Calabria (Calabria National Park) whose largest section is east of Consenza. Most of the forest has been replanted and, as a sign of ecological health, the park's symbol the wolf is making a comeback. As you may well imagine, local farmers are not overjoyed.
Crotone whose population is approximately sixty thousand was a major city in the days of the Greeks. The famous philosopher and mathematician Pythagoras founded a school here about twenty five hundred years ago. Be sure to see the Ninth to Eleventh Century neo-classical Cathedral home to an icon of the Black Madonna said to come from the East in the early days of the Christian era. Then go by foot to the island and its Sixteenth Century Castle of Charles V, home to the archeological Town Museum.
Cerchiara di Calabria is a town of about three thousand located on the eastern coast of the Ionian Sea. The site has been settled since the days of the Ancient Greeks. It is best known for the Tenth Century Sanctuary of S. Maria delle Armi, which includes a historic pilgrim hospice. The streets are cobblestone, the view is stupendous, and I'm told that the La Locanda di Alia restaurant is out of this world, if you watch the spices.
Castrovillari is the last stop in our tour of northern Calabria. Its population is approximately twenty two thousand. There is a historic synagogue, a Spanish castle, and a Sixteenth Century Church. Castrovillari is a gateway to the national park mentioned above. But one of the major reasons that people stop by is to visit the La Locanda di Alia restaurant. Next time I'm in the region...
What about food? The Sila mountain range that somewhat resembles the Swiss Alps is famous for its mushrooms, especially porcini and truffles, and Caciocavallo Silano cheese. As good as that sounds, I think I'd like the wild boar even better.
We suggest a sample menu, one of many. Start with Macco di Fave (Broadbean Soup). Then try Costolette d'agnello alla calabrese (Lamb Chops with Olive Oil, Tomatoes, Sweet Peppers, and Olives). For dessert indulge yourself with Mostaccioli (Anise-flavored Biscuits.) Make sure that you augment your dining pleasure by including local wines with your meal.
We conclude with a brief look at Calabria wine. Calabria devotes about sixty thousand acres to grapevines; it ranks 13th among the 20 Italian regions for the acreage devoted to wine grapes. About 91% of its wine is red or rose, leaving 9% for white. The region produces twelve DOC wines. DOC stands for Denominazione di Origine Controllata, often translated as Denomination of Controlled Origin, presumably a high-quality wine. Only 2.4% of Calabria wine carries the DOC designation.
The best-known red wine is Ciro said to be the oldest wine in the world. Given the region's high altitude, temperate climate, and poor-quality soil there is a definite potential for excellent wines. Right now, it's a question of hope. But sooner or later, as in other regions of southern Italy, Calabria wines should step forward.
If you are looking for a European tourist destination, consider the Latium region of central western Italy on the Tyrrhenian Sea. Latium, also known as Laszio, is the region that includes Italy's capital Rome, the Eternal City. Because there are so many articles describing the multiple pleasures of Rome, we are going to write about the lesser-known attractions of Latium. This article focuses on Latium west of Rome. A companion article describes Latium east of Rome.
We'll start our tour at Cerveteri about 25 miles (40 kilometers) northwest of Rome. We'll head along the sea northwest past Rome's port, Civitvecchia, and stop at Tarquinia. Then we'll travel inland (northeast) to Tuscania, Viterbo, Bagnaia, and then southeast to the village of Caprarola. We then head almost directly north to finish our tour at Bomarzo not far from the Umbrian border. (It might be a bit shorter to go from Bagnaia to Bomarzo and then to Caprarola but as you will see, we have our reasons for following the first itinerary.) Before starting this tour we introduce a onetime major player, the Etruscans.
The Etruscans were a people who dominated large parts of Italy including Latium from an unknown prehistoric period up until the Roman Empire. We don't know much about their origins, language, culture, or their way of life. Much of our knowledge about this formerly powerful people can be seen on our tours of Latium. An important book about the Etruscans, Sketches of Etruscan Places and other Italian Essays (1932), was written by the British Author D. H. Lawrence, better known for another work, Lady Chatterly's Lover.
Cerveteri, population about thirty thousand, was once the Etruscan city of Caere. Because of its Etruscan tombs UNESCO has classified Cerveteri as a World Heritage Site. It is the largest ancient necropolis in the Mediterranean area. These tombs, and there are over a thousand of them, date from the Ninth Century B.C. to the Third Century B. C. Other local sights not to be missed include the Rocca castle, the Church of Santa Maria Maggiore and the Sixteenth Century Palazzo Ruspoli, not to be confused with a Palace of the same name in Florence. The nearby village of Ceri sits at the top of a fortified plateau. Its number one attraction is the Romanesque Church of the Madonna of Ceri, built on a site that was originally dedicated to the worship of the goddess Vesta. In 1980 during renovations, Twelfth Century frescos of Biblical scenes were uncovered.
Tarquinia whose population numbers about sixteen thousand is the site of about six thousand Etruscan tombs, some of which are decorated by wall paintings. The National Museum housed in the Fifteenth Century Palazzo Vitelleschi is known for its archeological contents. Tarquinia is home to a cathedral, several churches including two from the Twelfth Century (San Martino and St. John the Baptist), the Palazzo dei Priori, and several medieval towers.
Tuscania, population somewhat under eight thousand, was founded almost three thousand years ago but the area itself has been populated for perhaps eight or ten thousand years. Unfortunately Tuscania's medieval city walls were mostly destroyed in a 1971 earthquake but they have been repaired and the interior is nicely landscaped. Like its neighbors, Tuscania is the site of many Etruscan tombs including the “Tomb of the Queen”, a series of labryinths containing about thirty tunnels. If you are like me, you prefer seeing other sights. Tuscania will not disappoint you. For example, you can tour several churches of great architectural interest and many, many palaces. And you can visit the National Archeological Museum, but many of the displays are tomb-related.
Viterbo was formerly the popes' favorite residence. Its historic old center is among the best preserved towns of central Italy. Be sure to see the Palazzo dei Papi (Papal Palace) and the Romanesque Cathedral of San Lorenzo, built by the Lombards over the ruins of an Etruscan Temple dedicated to Hercules. This building also served as a Papal residence. Pope John XXI died here in 1277 when the ceiling collapsed as he was sleeping. The Plaza di San Lorenzo contains several other buildings of interest. The medieval district of San Pellegrino is quite well preserved and definitely worth visiting. Viterbo is home to a spa with a gigantic limestone pool of very hot water. Its volcanic mud is highly recommended for those who like that sort of thing. I am told that the Enoteca La Torre has an extensive wine list. The Tre Re restaurant has been a fixture of Viterbo's old town since 1622.
The nearby village of Bagnaia was the personal fiefdom of the bishops of Viterbo for centuries. It is best known for its magnificent Sixteenth Century water gardens, Villa Lante. There are two sets of buildings, built for two very different bishops, one of whom was known for living simply. Highlights include a Moorish fountain, a boxtree maze, and two casinos.
Neighboring Caprarola is the site of the Sixteenth Century Farnese Palace. This Palace was built for Cardinal Alessandro II Farnese, nephew of Pope Paul III, within ten years of construction of the Villa Lante. The two sites were built by the same architect, but in a very different style. Here you go to see the palace, although its park is also worth visiting. In fact, in many parts of the world, the Farnese Palace park would merit a visit on its own. We suggest that you see the Villa Lante and the Farnese Palace and compare. One thing is certain, the Sixteenth Century Italian upper class sure knew how to live.
You probably haven't seen anything like Bomarzo. The village's main attraction is yet another Sixteenth Century garden, alternately known as Bosco Sacro (Sacred Grove) and Bosco di Mostri (Monster's Grove). It was built by a hunchbacked patron of the arts to honor his deceased wife. Some say that she died of heart failure after seeing the park. For centuries this park was neglected but now has been restored. The dozens of monster statues including Hanging House, the Dragon, the Ogre, and the Etruscan Bench with its inscription "You who travel the world, in search of great and beautiful wonders, come here, where there are horrible faces, elephants, lions, bear and dragons" seem strewn about aimlessly. This is probably as good a place as any to end your tour of western Latium.
What about food? Latium cuisine is one of abundance, perhaps in part because of the volcanic soil. The best cuts of meat were reserved for the rich and the poor had to be satisfied with the rest, for example: feet, heart, kidneys, tongue, and tripe. Let's not forget the pasta, often considered among the best in Italy. Fettuccine Alfredo comes from this region. Let's suggest a sample menu, one of many. Start with Carciofi alla Guidea (Deep fried Artichokes). Then try Porchetta (Roast Suckling Pig). For dessert indulge yourself with Ciambella (Pastry with Sweetened Grapes and Carmelized Chestnuts). Be sure to augment your dining pleasure by choosing local wines to accompany your meal.
We'll finish this article with a peek at Latium wine. More than eighty percent of the bottles produced here are white. There are some twenty five DOC wines. DOC stands for Denominazione di Origine Controllata, which may be translated as Denomination of Controlled Origin, presumably a high-quality wine, twenty of them white. However, only about 6% of Latium wine is so classified. Frankly, the region is not known for its wine. It once was; in the distant past Falernum, a Latium red was the hit of Ancient Rome. Who knows, perhaps one day the region will regain its former glory when it comes to wine. In the meantime, there is lots to see and lots to eat. You don't have to look very far to find plenty of fine Italian wines. North of Latium is Umbria, and north of Umbria is Tuscany. Cantina Colacicchi's Torre Ercolana is a Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot blend from Latium is highly recommended but I haven't tasted it yet.
Levi Reiss has sinced written about articles on various topics from Touring Italy, Travel and Leisure and Food and Drink. Over the years Levi Reiss has authored or co-authored ten computer and Internet books, and yet he prefers fine Italian, German, or other wine, accompanied by the right foods and good company. He knows what dieting is, and is glad that for the time being h. Levi Reiss's top article generates over 450000 views. to your Favourites.