Alpha hydroxy acids have become standard treatment for a variety of skin problems – including dry skin. Lotions containing low concentrations of the acids are available over the counter, and in higher concentrations from your doctor. The acids are also used for skin peels, administered by a professional. Using a good shielding lotion as a moisturizer prevents and treats dry skin on a daily basis, but, used correctly, alpha hydroxy acids may also be beneficial.
The most common alpha hydroxy acids (AHA’s) are lactic acid, a derivative of sour milk, citric acid, from oranges and other citrus fruits, and glycolic acid, a derivative of sugar cane. Although they have been used for centuries – Cleopatra used to bath in sour milk – they have now been refined, and are included in many cosmetic and beauty products.
How do they help dry skin? Their primary function is exfoliation. Dry skin is often caused by an excessive build-up of dead skin cells on the surface. Alpha hydroxy acids weaken the bonds that hold dead skin cells together, loosening their hold on the surface and leaving the skin fresher, smoother, and younger looking. They also stimulate production of collagen, giving the skin more support and increasing the thickness.
Many studies have shown that using a product with an alpha-hydroxy acid concentration of at least 8 to 10 percent is effective in restoring elasticity, diminishing fine lines and wrinkles, lightening areas that have become dark as we age, and reducing dry skin.
How do you choose the right product? Remember that these are powerful acids. They seep into the skin, and can do so too deeply. When first applied, they will sting for 20 or 30 seconds, but if the sting lasts longer, the product you’ve chosen is too strong. They can also increase sun-sensitivity so you should definitely use sunscreen. It’s best to start with a product of low concentration to ensure you don’t damage the skin, and choose a product with other natural ingredients so you don’t exacerbate the situation by using chemicals that cause dry skin. Applying two to three times a week should suffice.
Although alpha hydroxy acids may be helpful, they do expose the skin to the elements and make it more sensitive, so it’s important to also use a shielding lotion. A good shielding lotion bonds with the outer layer of the skin to form a barrier that protects against harsh environmental pollutants, and locks in the natural moisture. It’s your first defense against dry skin. Using the AHA lotion a few times a week, and the shielding lotion daily, you could start looking younger in just a few days!
Used for thousands of years in skin care products for their beneficial effects, alpha hydroxy acids are derived from fruit and milk. Cleopatra is reported to have used them to benefit her complexion and today you can find alpha hydroxy acids in a range of skin care formulations including masks, serums, lotions and creams. Their use is gaining in popularity and it's no wonder.
Alpha hydroxy acids can help to improve many skin conditions including skin dryness, wrinkles and fine lines, sun damage as well as skin pigment disorders.
Types Of Alpha Hydroxy Acids
Glycolic acid and lactic acid are the most well known alpha hydroxy acids. Their use is backed up by numerous clinical studies that document their effectiveness and both can penetrate skin well. However, the use of other alpha hydroxy acids including malic and mandelic acid are gaining in popularity.
Here are alpha hydroxy acids that you'll find in skincare preparations:
Glycolic acid - derived from sugar cane Lactic acid - derived from milk Malic acid - derived from apples and pears Mandelic acid - derived from almonds Tartaric acid - derived from grapes Citric acid - derived from citrus fruits
Lactic acid and mandelic or malic acids are especially beneficial to sensitive skin types who may not tolerate other alpha hydroxy acids as well.
How Do Alpha Hydroxy Acids Work?
Alpha hydroxy acids act as exfoliants, allowing for the removal of dead skin cells in the skin's top layer or epidermis. They exert this action by helping skin cells to separate from one another, thereby expediting the process. This allows for new skin cells to come to the surface giving skin a glowing appearance. There is also evidence to show that alpha hydroxy acids can stimulate the production of collagen and elastin production which decline as a result of aging.
The benefits are many: smoother, firmer skin with an even tone. Alpha hydroxy acids are used to improve skin wrinkling, skin roughness, skin discoloration and sun damage. Results will be noticeable soon after use, with maximum results noticed after several months of use. Usage should be continued to enjoy benefits.
Concentrations above 8% tend to deliver best results with higher concentrations, certainly those above 15 - 20%, best left in the hands of qualified skin care professionals due to potential for side effects. Alpha hydroxy acid preparations should also carry a low pH to ensure that they are effective.
Concentrations below 8% are a good way to introduce an alpha hydroxy acid product into your regimen so that skin can slowly acclimatize to its effects. Cleansers, toners and masks will deliver results, but the best benefit will be found by using a serum, cream or lotion because it remains on the skin longer.
Side Effects of Alpha Hydroxy Acids
Because alpha hydroxy acids are acids, they can cause skin irritation. This may lead to redness, itching or even pain. Introduce them gradually and start at low concentrations. If your skin is sensitive, it may take longer for you to acclimatize to their use. Though unlikely, you may find that you cannot use an alpha hydroxy acid.
Alpha hydroxy acids also increase the skin's sensitivity to sunlight. Burning can be problematic. In order to avoid this, stay in the shade, wear hats and always apply a broad spectrum UVA and UVB blocking sunscreen with a minimum of SPF 30 when outside. Sun damage can also cause long term damage to skin, negating any benefits you may have achieved by incorporating the use of an alpha hydroxy acid.
If you have a medium to darker skin tone, there is the potential for scarring. As with any new skin care product pay attention to how skin responds upon application. Discontinue use and seek medical attention if you notice any unusual skin change. Alpha hydroxy acids such as lactic, malic and mandelic acids may be less problematic in these skin types.
If you want to keep skin looking young and healthy, then consider incorporating an alpha hydroxy acid preparation into your skin care regimen.
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