, I must correct the impression that all of Lamu island is touristy with expensive eateries. Infact, Whispers is perhaps one of the few exceptions, most eating places in Lamu island are humble, with truly good food and reasonable prices.
The eating out scene in Lamu island is almost exactly that- eating outdoors.
Nearly all the cafes, restaurants, kiosks and shacks that cater for food have such wide open spaces with views of the sea or the narrow streets that one comes away having experienced the street culture without trying. That is unless you decide not to venture out from the private houses and posh hotels on Shela beach.
Our experience at the restaurants and bars in these places was a waste of time. The rest of Lamu island is so friendly, with genuine people showing great hospitality; in the more stuck up places of Shela, the service is colonially cool at best, with locals being ignored as much as the waiting staff can and the whole experience lacking any fun or warmth.
One of the best things about Lamu is the availability of fresh and cheap juices. It's a fantastic experience for non- Lamu people because nowhere else in this country can one get juices fresher and cheaper than in Lamu. A pint of fresh juice goes for Shs 50 and a half pint for Shs 30.atshela, It is Shs 20 more expensive, but still worth it. And when I say fresh, I mean fresh. Juices are made as per order and the noise of the electric blenders at the back is evidence to this fact.
The variety is also stunning; besides the orange, mango (only when in season), lime and pineapple, they offer pawpaw, avocado, banana, tamarind, coconut and a host of others. The tamarind is an acquired taste but very refreshing, the avocado is almost a meal and the coconuts like nothing I've tasted before- it is not coconut milk, nor it is coconut water (madafu), it's the juice of the tender coconut flesh. They do tend to add sugar so you must tell then beforehand if you want your juices natural. Lamu being an Islamic town, alcohol is restricted to a select few places; with the abundant availability of such divine natural products, I certainly didnt miss alcohol.
One of the more popular places is Bush Garden restaurant, along the promenade. They offer a variety of dishes, but the fish kebabs are the best very fresh fish straight from the sea. We didn't get to try their ginger crab (having had an overdose of crab meat between Malindi and Lamu), but I tried their Chicken Biryani, which was spicy and served with coconut rice on the side rather than together with the meat. Unfortunately, they served slightly burnt pancakes with honey. Pancakes are also a specialty of Lamu. We avoided the Hapa Hapa Restaurant next door after trying their juices, which we found adulterated.
The Stopover Restaurant on Shela serves fantastic grilled prawns and coconut rice, but it takes forever ? a sign of the ? pole pole? nature of the area as well as the fact that everything is prepared from scratch. Their pancakes looked deliciously golden brown, although we didn't get to try them.
Talking trees is a newer establishment set in a cove half way between Lamu town and Shela. It's within walking distance from either side, provided the tide is not high. A small place, nicely set up with pleasant colors and all seating facing the open sea, it has a set menu every day with dishes like beef curry.
Their coffees are well prepared but their lime cake with passion icing was a bit too frozen. It's run by almost friendly team and they have evening ?beach parties'at least once a week.
It's a pity that we did not get to try, nor even see any dishes with a Swahili flavor ? except for breakfast. Mahamris and Mbaazi being my favorite, we first triad these at the sea Front Cafe?.. On the promenade in Lamu Town. A portion good enough for two with traditional tea cost USD 2 each.
My more veteran friend decried this as daylight robbery and the next day we had the same at a local tea room on a street parallel to the promenade for ?..0 for two..
All of the places mentioned above are rather basic but with good views, friendly staff, down-to-earth prices and help capture the laid ?back, rustic feel of Lamu island.