By being proactive and planning ahead you will be able to save quite a bit on your heating expenses. Naturally you want to start with your furnace or other heating source. Insure that it is both safe and functional.
Before the temperatures drop you should check all ductwork and registers. It is important that the registers are clean and unobstructed in order to allow for a clear airflow. A clean filter is also a vital component when your goal is efficiency and maximum airflow.
Be sure to check out your thermostat. It should be in a location that does not receive drafts and it should not be near a heat source. Programmable thermostats allow you to automate lowering the temperature at night while you sleep and when you are away at work.
By lowering the setting by one degree you can realize a savings of up to three percent in your energy costs.
The last step in your thermostat preparation is that of testing the system for even distribution of heat. Turn on the heat for a few hours and walk through your home.
If you find hot spots or cold spots you will need to adjust both the thermostat as well as the venting on the registers. You should decrease the airflow in the hot spots and increase it in the cold spots.
Another suggestion is to simply close of registers and doors to any unused rooms in your home. Since heat rises it is a good idea to have ceiling fans that can push that heat back down into the livable area of the rooms.
Check around doors and windows for drafts. You may need to use a fan to be more precise in this check. Add weather-stripping where needed around doors and caulk around windows. If you now have screens in your windows you will probably want to switch them out for glass replacements. Storm doors and windows can decrease heat loss while helping to retain existing heat.
Close curtains or drapes at night. That will help to cut the heat loss through your windows. I also suggest that you use rolled towels to place at the bottom of doors.
Check around any light switches or outlets on walls that are on the perimeter of your home. If you can feel airflow you will need to tend to that problem. A quick and free fix is to cut a piece of Styrofoam (from a piece that you get from meat packaging) to fit the area. Cut out any sections needed and use that to cover the area. Then simply replace your cover.
Set your hot water temperature to 120 degrees. If you have a dishwasher you may want to set it at 140 degrees.
Insulation can make a big difference in the energy needed to heat a home. A minimum of R-30 insulation in ceilings or attics is recommended.
Ovens use a lot of energy so use yours wisely. Although recipes almost always advise pre-heating an oven it usually is not really necessary. If you pre-heat at all only allow a few minutes to pass before you add your dish to the oven.
Keep the oven door closed during your cook time in order to conserve the heat. And cook more than one dish at a time. When you are finished with the oven leave the door slightly ajar in order to allow that heat to escape into your home. Slow cookers can be wonderful alternatives to oven use as can a microwave. Both appliances use much less energy than ovens.
They usually heat a radius of 10-20 feet. However the radius varies according to the model and ambient atmosphere. The heaters usually raise the temperature from 10-30 degrees Fahrenheit.
Patio heaters are not designed for chilly winters as that would require a heavy duty heater with enormous energy consumption. They are used for relatively little increase in ambient temperature and particularly used in the evenings of late fall and early spring.
Patio heaters run on a variety of fuel like natural gas, propane, butane, kerosene etc. Some electric models are also available. The natural gas models are popular because they use the same fuel system as an outside grill. Portable heaters have a portable cylinder attached to the heating unit.
The principle used in most heaters is to heat using radiated heat and not convection. As a lot of energy gets used up in heating air for convection heating and very less percentage of heat is left for the user convection heating is not feasible. Radiative heating patio heaters are more economical as they provide heat to the user and air is not heated.
The heaters are provided with a heavy aluminum reflector at the top to direct the heat downwards and outwards from the heater. These aluminum reflector type models are termed as mushroom patio heaters or umbrella patio heaters. The pole is usually 3 to 7 feet tall. Ceiling patio heaters are also available in the market. These are installed permanently and need less maintenance than the portable one.
Heaters radiate anywhere up to 35,000 BTU (British Thermal Units). The emitter reaches a temperature up to 1150 degrees Fahrenheit. This causes bluing of the stainless steel. Also a brownish color develops on the emitter which appears like rust. However there is no cause for alarm as this brownish tint is normal and is not rusting of the unit.
The cost of patio heaters varies as per the model. A reasonable quality patio heater may cost between $100 to $300. Look for safety features like tilt switches, sealed burners, emergency cut off valves, flame controllers and electronic ignition systems etc when purchasing.
These items are available in shops where natural gas or butane is available. Some specialty shops for home decorating also keep patio heaters. Do not treat them as toys. It is prudent not to let children operate them.
Both Debbie Allen & Keith George are contributors for EditorialToday. The above articles have been edited for relevancy and timeliness. All write-ups, reviews, tips and guides published by EditorialToday.com and its partners or affiliates are for informational purposes only. They should not be used for any legal or any other type of advice. We do not endorse any author, contributor, writer or article posted by our team.
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