In building greenhouses, one has several options to choose from. One can actually hire a professional greenhouse expert to guide him throughout the whole process of building his greenhouse. From the creation of plans to the actual creation of the greenhouse, one can use the services of a professional. However, this approach will entail a lot of costs. The professional fees will definitely take its toll in the pockets of the greenhouse enthusiast. Another way to do it is to buy resources about building greenhouses. There are many resources out there that contain greenhouse plans and other tips which can be used in building a greenhouse. However, there are sources which give free plans and tips which can be very useful, especially for greenhouse enthusiasts who are just beginning.
There are several parts of a greenhouse which need careful consideration and planning. These are:
1) Base The base is made from sawn timber. This kind of timber can easily be availed from local timber merchants. This timber is more commonly found in fences. The base for our plan is measured at 2400 mm by 3000 mm.
2) Side walls The side walls should be built from 75 by 50 tanalised sawn timber. They usually come in 4800 mm.
When the base is established on a flat ground, the two side walls should be built. The two side walls should be put upright and temporarily in place on top of the base. They are to be attached to the base using galvanized nails.
3) Roof frame
The roof frame should also be built using the 75 by 50 tanalised sawn timber. The roof frames should be placed above the side walls. A roof frame should be placed at each end of the side walls. They are also to be attached using galvanized nails.
4) Windows
The windows should be made of 50 by 50 sawn tanalised timber. Some people would want a couple of windows for their greenhouses. The windows should be hinged so as to allow regulation of temperature.
5) Covering
The greenhouse covering should be made up of polythene which is resistant to ultra-violet rays. The covering is to be placed using thin battens which will hold the polythene to the greenhouse. The battens are to be nailed to the greenhouse studs and roof rafters. One must be cautious about the kind of polythene which he will avail from the hardware store since most of the suppliers only have polythene which is not ultra-violet-resistant.
There are other things to consider when building greenhouses. Here are some of them:
- One should check the local building regulations before engaging into greenhouse construction. If in any case that there are restrictions regarding deeds, one should look at the requirements regarding set backs and regulations about easement. Hoop houses are greenhouses which are made from frames which can be easily disassembled. These kinds of greenhouses are not considered as permanent structures and therefore exempt from the regulations concerning such structures.
-One should make a layout of the whole yard and the house before he constructs a greenhouse. A greenhouse would often times become the centerpiece of a garden or a yard and it is much recommended that people plan before putting a single nail into it.
-Time management and budgeting are two important things to constantly consider in building a greenhouse. One should allot around eight to twenty thousand US dollars if he is serious about constructing a quality greenhouse. However, there are greenhouse kits that are available out there that are not as expensive. One should know what to spend and how to spend it. The time table in constructing a greenhouse should be set according to the plans of the owner. Greenhouses can be built in a couple of days to a couple of years. It all depends on the owner.
One may find many free greenhouse construction plans in the Internet. All one needs to know is the know-how's of search engines. These free plans come with good tips and wonderful illustrations to guide one in constructing a greenhouse for his plants.
Every piece of furniture is designed to serve a certain specific purpose and at the same time withstand wear and tear and accidental damage. The proportions of the parts are an important factor in constructing a piece that will withstand more than normal usage, yet look well. Of equal importance is the way those parts are put together. Joints are always potential weak spots, and they must be properly designed and proportioned. The cabinet maker needs to know how to form all the common, and some uncommon, joints, and also where to use them.
There are many types of operations used in everyday cabinet making. Three of these, chamfers, bevels and beading are outlined below.
Marking
A preliminary to any cutting operation is to mark the line along which the cut is to be made. Whether you use a marking gauge, butt gauge, try square, a straightedge, or your fingers, depends upon the location, direction, and shape of the line. But suppose for the moment that you are merely to cut a chamfer along the edge of a board. This is probably done more for decorative reasons than for fitting, so the line does not have to be exact.
More likely than not you can draw such a line with a sharp pencil by running your fingers down the edge of the board. The pencil is held firmly between thumb and forefinger, and the tips of the third or fourth fingers held lightly against the edge of the board. It is best to draw the pencil toward you and not to move the body during this operation.
Chamfers and Bevels
The sharp corner of the board (called an arris) is removed in chamfering, but the cut does not go the full thickness of the board. Such a full-thickness angle cut would be a bevel. Therefore, in making the chamfer, it is best to mark both the edge and face of the board. The board can then be held in a vise while you plane off the arris down to the lines. If you wish, you can take off the sharp corner first with a spokeshave or drawknife or even a chisel, and finish with the plane.
In cases where the chamfer does not go the full length of the edge but tapers off, it is called a stopped chamfer. In this case you chamfer as much as possible with the plane, and finish off the ends (stops) with a spokeshave or chisel, depending on the shape of the stop.
In making a bevel, only one line need be drawn (on the face or back of the board), and most of the work can be done with a plane. The commonest bevel is 45 degrees, in which case the guide line is marked back from the edge a distance equal to the thickness of the wood.
Beading
Another non-structural operation is that known as beading. It consists, in its simplest form, of forming a round corner in place of an arris, and is often used in conjunction with a chamfer on an adjoining board to make a decorative joint.
The line of the bead is marked off with a pencil as in the case of the chamfer. If the board is short you may be able to make a saw cut along this line, an eighth of an inch or more deep. Then you round off the arris into the saw cut with a plane on the outside and a chisel on the inside of the bead, finishing off with medium sandpaper, preferably glued to a hollowed block.
All of this of course takes time and effort, with plenty of opportunities for spoiling the work. It is far better to get yourself a good combination plane with cutters for the sizes of beads that you want most often. With long boards something of the sort is a practical necessity, unless you have a power saw to make the groove.
These are just a few of the operations that a furniture maker will need to know in order to make beautiful furniture.
Both Jimmy Spier & Jimmy Cox are contributors for EditorialToday. The above articles have been edited for relevancy and timeliness. All write-ups, reviews, tips and guides published by EditorialToday.com and its partners or affiliates are for informational purposes only. They should not be used for any legal or any other type of advice. We do not endorse any author, contributor, writer or article posted by our team.
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