The only really effective tools for this job are a set of rods. You could try plunging with a mop or poking with a bamboo stick, but because the outlets and inlets will be hidden by effluent you really need something more flexible.
Drain rods can of course be hired, but this is inconvenient. If your drains block regularly or you are worried that they could, it its really worth buying a set of ?unbreakable? polypropylene rods and attachments ? they are now very cheap. Among the attachments you can get are a plunger, a worm screw, a scraper and flexible wire leader and a small wheel.
Screw two rods together and lower them into the chamber. Feel for the inlet or outlet when you think the blockage is, and try to slide the rods into it.
When you feel them go in, screw on another rod and keep pushing. Continue in this manner until you feel and obstruction.
Now turn the rods clockwise (so they don't unscrew in the drain) and at the same time keep maneuvering them back and forth until you feel the block age ?give?. You may have to do this for several minutes before it has any effect.
After you have cleared the blockage, always flush the chamber thoroughly with water to remove the last traces of debris.
Interceptor Problems
Interceptor blockages are nearly always in the trap. Above this is another pipe ? the clearing eye ? which should be closed by a clay stopper on a chain. When confronted with an interceptor full of effluent, the first thing to try is removing the stopper. You will not be able to see it ? you must feel for the handle with a piece of wood and try hooking it out of its socket. If you succeed and the blockage is in the trap, the chamber will clear and you can set about clearing the trap itself. Plunge it vigorously with your rods ? preferably using the plunging head ? until the debris shifts.
If removing the stopper has no effect, the blockage is further down the drain; in this case rod through the clearing eye. An all too common problem is that the stopper chain breaks and the stopper falls into the trap where it acts like a butterfly valve and causes periodic blockages. If you think this has happened, call in professional help. If the stopper is simply missing from your interceptor you can buy a new rubber one.
Modern Techniques
Recently companies such as Karcher have released pressure washers powerful enough to clear drains, in some instances. They also manufacture drain kits, which are like rods, but carry a high-pressure jet of water, clearing blockages in no time. Hot water machines are also available which in the case of some blockages work better.
Summary
That is it for this article, however, still to come I will tell how to clear a blocked gully, clearing a blockage in a stack and mending drains that have been tree roots. Remember kids measure twice cut once.
Gullies, particularly the old open sort are very common sources of blockages. If the blockage is in the trap, you can usually clear it from the gully itself. But if all else fails, rod in a plunging motion up the inlet in the inspection chamber that leads to the gully.
Small gullies can be baled out by hand. Life the grid then wearing rubber gloves, scoop out the debris into a bucket. Check that the outlet is clear with your finger: if it isn't try poking some coat hanger wire up it.
Gullies receiving sink waste get clogged with grease. This can usually be shifted with boiling water or scraped out by hand. If this does not work, try pouring down a solution of caustic soda. But take care and follow the instructions to the letter – caustic soda is dangerous.
Deep gullies and blockages on the other side of the trap can be shifted by plunging – you can get an attachment like a sink plunger that screws onto the end of a ordinary drain rod. A household mop makes an effective standby as do old rags wrapped in a plastic bag and tied to a broom handle, but only if there is enough bulk to fill the gully neck completely.
You could try threading a garden hose around the bend in the gully trap to flush the blockage with water. In this case stop up the gully itself with polyethylene bags rammed tightly in place – the extra pressure this creates will help the was do its work.
Note that in some drainpipes rodding eyes are provided at places where blockages may occur.
Blockages in Stacks
These are rare in single stack systems and simple two pipe arrangements, but common in older, complicated drainage layout. Fortunately there are often clearing eyes at junctions and direction changes.
Soak eye covers in penetrating oil before attempting to remove them.
You can then either insert a rod with a head to match the stack diameter, or else feed in a screw clearing wire. Use the same procedure as for an inspection chamber.
Clear the hopper from above with a worm screw rod.
Tree Roots
These can work their way throught a joint in a drain pipe, in which case no amount of plunging will shift them. You may be able to clear them partially with a powered screw augur similar to the type used by professional drain clearers – they are available at some hire stores. But a more satisfactory solution is to excavate the drain at the site of the problem.
Find out how this is by making a note of how many rods in takes to reach the obstruction. Then lay out the same rods at ground level in the same direction and see where they end.
Dig down to the pipe, hack away and pull out the offending roots, then make good the damage to the joint with a strong mortar mix of one part cement and two of sharp sand.
Summary
So there you go, four articles on how to clear blocked drains. I hope my writing has some how managed to help you with any drain related problems.
Johan Nickson has sinced written about articles on various topics from Home Management, Shopping and Gardening. Johan Nickson is an expert in . Johan Nickson's top article generates over 18100 views. to your Favourites.