There is a professional and an amateur way to bath your Shih Tzu. Bathing your Shih Tzu should be done only after the coat is thoroughly brushed and combed. The professional will prepare all necessary materials to be ready at hand before putting the Shih Tzu in the tub. These materials are a sponge, bristle brush, container of shampoo and a heavy towel. A hose attached to the faucet with a spray is most helpful. Water temperature should not be too hot or too cold.
Start at your Shih Tzu's hindquarters and completely soak the Shih Tzu. Use your hands if necessary to force the water through the Shih Tzu's coat. Some Shih Tzu have coats that is more water resistant than others. Do not fill the tub with water. Let the water run freely down the drain. To correct bath your Shih Tzu is more like giving it a shower than a bath.
Once the Shih Tzu is thoroughly soaked, saturate the sponge with shampoo and from the rear to front, shampoo every part of the Shih Tzu. Areas that are frequently overlooked of the Shih Tzu are the anus and the foot pads. Be especially careful about shampooing around the eyes of your Shih Tzu. Always use a tearless shampoo to wash the face and around the eye area of your Shih Tzu. A toothbrush works well to wash around the eyes and on either side of the nose just under your Shih Tzu's eye.
After shampooing your Shih Tzu, take the bristle brush and work the shampoo thoroughly into the coat. Rinse all the shampoo out of your Shih Tzu's coat. Rinse your Shih Tzu until the water runs completely clear of any suds and shampoo. Take care not to get water directly in the eyes of your Shih Tzu. You can cover the eyes with one hand when rinsing your Shih Tzu's face, and cover the ears (by placing your thumb over the ear canal) when rinsing near your Shih Tzu's ears.
If the Shih Tzu is extremely dirty, one shampoo may not be enough. You may need to shampoo your Shih Tzu twice.
When you are certain the Shih Tzu is thoroughly clean, squeeze the water out of the Shih Tzu's coat with your hands as much as possible. Use a heavy towel to squeeze as much water off the Shih Tzu as possible. Use a cage dryer on the Shih Tzu's coat to get it damp-dry. The next step is to blow dry your Shih Tzu.
Shampoos: What is a good shampoo and what is a good cr'me rinse to use on your Shih Tzu? A good shampoo for the Shih Tzu is one that cleanses the Shih Tzu thoroughly and does not contain any harsh detergents harmful to the skin and coat of the Shih Tzu. I like using HealthyPetNet shampoos.
A good shampoo will lather up to a good foam. It will have good feel to the hands and a nice scent of which both you and your Shih Tzu will enjoy using. A good shampoo will leave the coat of a Shih Tzu free of all dirt, grime and grit? It should leave a white coat of a Shih Tzu sparkling white.
Special shampoos: There are many good Shih Tzu shampoos manufactured for specialized needs of the Shih Tzu. There are shampoos to highlight the specific color of the coat of a Shih Tzu. There are shampoos that will do well on the very softer coated Shih Tzu. There are tangle-remover shampoos and many more you can use on your Shih Tzu. You need to experiment and find one good, all-purpose shampoo for your Shih Tzu. You should also be aware of the need for a medicated shampoo if necessary for your Shih Tzu, and a safe flea and tick shampoo for the flea and tick season. You might even find that adding a ?tick dip? after the regular shampoo of your Shih Tzu. Be sure you mix the dip according to the manufacturer's directions.
Cr'me rinse: A cr'me rinse is recommended to use after shampooing your Shih Tzu. A cr'me rinse will help keep the mats out of your Shih Tzu's coat. To find a good cr'me rinse for your Shih Tzu is much like finding a good shampoo. The cr'me rinse you use on your Shih Tzu should perform well. It should have no negative after-effects. Does the coat of your Shih Tzu feel soft and clean afterward? If so, then this is a good sign the cr'me rinse is appropriate for your Shih Tzu. If you can dilute the cr'me rinse with several parts of water without losing potency, this often proves even better for the coat of the Shih Tzu.
A day or two before a normal delivery you may notice a small amount of mucus at the opening of your shih tzu's vulva. Just before the actual whelping, she will produce a mucous plug. You would have to watch your shih tzu very closely in order to observe these things or else this is easily unnoticed. I have seen this process only a few times, as I was not truly watching continually and probably missed most of them. It is not necessary to sit and wait for this. But if you are extremely anxious about the whelping, these are signs to watch for that will tell you puppies will be coming fairly soon. A small bubble may also appear just outside the vulva. It looks like something that maybe you just need to pull out really quick and get rid of, but by all means, do not do that! Leave it in place, because it contains the first puppy. I have one female, Buffy, by name who has presented with this bubble for hours before the actual puppy came. There is no set rule about this. On some females, I never see a bubble, only suddenly a puppy arrives. So if you see the bubble, just leave it alone, do not break or pull on this bubble. It generally does not appear with the rest of the puppies. I mention it here mainly because first time I saw Buffy like this I wanted to help her somehow and rid her of this odd looking bubble. Fortunately, I ran for my references on whelping, and did not do this. Soon, she delivered her puppies all by herself. Her whelping is very, very long, but they always survive and so does she. I am use to Buffy now and do not worry about her whelping.
Personally, I love to see them whelp quickly and get it over it. This is not very often, however. You still might want to consult your vet if there is unusual lengths of time in between puppies, but especially if your shih tzu is visibly having contractures and straining and no puppy arrives - this is a true medical emergency. For the majority of shih tzu I have been acquainted with, however, they are free whelpers and very good affectionate, nuturing mothers. What an exciting time to witness the birth of these little shih tzu puppies!!! You won't be able to tell much about exact colors, they are as if "bald" with none of that beautiful hair. It seems like a miracle they turn into the beauties they turn into when you see them at birth. They are very sweet though and sometimes cry just like real human babies as they wiggle and squirm trying to survive in this strange new world they just emerged into. Puppies are born blind and deaf. Their eyes looked glued together and their ears are closed up also.
Puppies grow in the right and left horns of the uterus. A placenta or afterbirth is attached to the wall of the uterus and is the source of food and oxygen for the puppy inside the matron.
The first puppy in either the right or left horn of the uterus is lifted into the birth canal and then detaches from the wall of the uterus. When this happens, in a normal delivery, the puppy will seem to "pop" out sometimes all at once, sometimes halfway and it takes more contractures to push the puppy on out. If you see a puppy that looks hung up, grasp as much of the sac and puppy as you can and gently pull outward and down when the female has a contraction. Never pull the puppy straight back or jerk it hard.
Puppies can be born head first, feet first or butt first. The easist delivery will be head first, and is the most desirable delivery of course. Usually these come out without problem. If the puppy tries to emerge feet first or butt first, it sometimes gets stuck and takes longer for mom to push it out.
At this point, do not panic, but just try to gently pull outward and down using a dry washcloth to get a good grip. The sac on a puppy is very slippery. As soon as the puppy is out, the mother should by instinct start to lick and tear at the sac around the face, eyes and nose. This is of most importance at this time. If the sac is not broken quickly, the puppy could smother to death. So if mom does not start this right away, just simply tear it with your fingers, and the puppy will begin to try and breathe. If mom does her job correctly she will continue to tumble the newborn around, licking and cleaning the sac completely off to stimulate the puppy to breathe. Again, if mom is too tired or for some reason her instincts do not kick in quick enough, you can begin to stimulate the puppy to breathe on its own by rubbing it briskly with your dry wash cloth, rub its back and shoulders, head, evey part you can get hold of and hopefully mom will also begin to cut the cord about this time and consume the placenta that should have arrived along with the whelp or shortly after. Mom does not always do this however, and I have seen mothers let their whelps lie with their placentas and cords attached until they deliver two or three other puppies, and then turn to eating the placenta and cutting the cords. As long as the puppy is out, the sac is broken and they are not struggling to breathe, and are breathing well on their own, it does not hurt anything for them to lie attached to the placenta until mom gets good and ready to return to that part of things.
I think sometimes mothers get distracted by the others that are trying to be born and they know if their previous whelps are out of the sac and breathing, sometimes even nursing with the placenta and cord attached, they are fine. If mother is doing her job correctly she will always stimulate them to breathe on their own as first course of action and leave the other things to another time if necessary.
She needs to deliver one placenta per puppy and you need to keep count. If she retains a placenta, it can cause infection, and you will need to take her to the vet for a shot to help her to expel the placenta. It is always a good idea to take your mom to the vet shortly after whelping to be sure she has not retained a placenta or even a dead puppy that will need to be expelled.
Anytime you leave newborn puppies or take their mother away for bathing or going to the vet, you will need to provide the puppy box with a heating pad and place a baby receiving blanket over the box to create a warm incubator. I learned this lesson the hard way. I took a mother from her babies just long enough to bath her and blow dry her, but never provided the newsborns with a heating pad, it was summertime even, and all those babies died within a day or two, they were doing fine before. I concluded they must have "chilled" while mom was gone. Mom will provide a lot of warmth for her newborns. She will wrap her body around them to warm them up, but you still need to use heating pads, and especially if you take mom from the box to tend to her for something. The number one cause of a newborn dying is becoming chilled. It is imperative to warm them up as quickly as possible and keep them warm.
Connie Limon has sinced written about articles on various topics from Careers and Job Hunting, Dogs and Colon Cleanse. Connie Limon is a shih tzu breeder. She publishes a FREE weekly newsletter. A professional newsletter with a focus upon health and wellness for you and your pets. Discounts are offered to subscribers. Sign up at:. Connie Limon's top article generates over 135000 views. to your Favourites.