[T1261]Travel And Tour Operators

India is a country that rejects rules and has an aversion to change; which has made it a land of great liberties. A European equivalent would be Italy. Laws may exist on the statue book but people only heed the ones that suit them or which they cannot get away with. Lax policing and a live and let live attitude keeps the whole system running. For example, drivers can and do pull out into the road, even major highways, without a signal or even bothering to look in their mirror (if they have one). There is an expectation that the traffic in the road will make way for them even if it risks an accident, and I've seen lots of close calls. Usually the only admonishment from the other drivers who have to swerve or brake will be a blast on the horn, because they know that the next time they also want to pull out, they will do exactly the same thing, and so life goes on - in a semi chaotic way.

When journalists write about the new India they are usually referring to the shiny new offices and businesses parks on the outskirts of the cities. These look like they have been dropped from somewhere in Europe and are full of earnest young people for whom the good times really are rolling. The middle classes have forsaken the trains and now get around country on the start up airlines that are competing hard for their business. Some of them (I particularly recommend Kingfisher Airlines) are really excellent. Another showcase of the New India is the Delhi Metro. This is work in progress with several lines being built that will by 2012 cover the whole city even reaching the international airport, (which technically is in another state), with most of the lines being built on cheaper elevated track. Most of this is being paid for by Japanese money, and unusually most of the equipment is imported rather than made in India. And it is impressive, unlike everywhere else in Delhi, it shines, you could eat your dinner off the floor in the stations and potted plants line the sides of the walls. Constant announcements tell people not to walk across the tracks(!), spit or throw rubbish and unusually for India, people heed them. One of reasons may be because security is so tight, with police with sub machine guns patrolling the trains and metal detector and bag searches just to get onto the platforms.

Outside these showcases life in India goes on much as it did when I first came here in 1989; this is particularly so in the countryside where most Indians still live. At dawn, people still walk out into the fields to do their ablutions; water comes from wells and bullock pull huge carts filled with straw. Cooking is done on Indian fuel cells which are made of cow dung mixed with straw and which are heaped in piles and sold on the side of the road. Also on the roadsides are brickworks where the bricks are still made by hand and fired in primitive kilns. The families who do this work live in the most desperate poverty, their ‘houses' are little more than primitive tents made from rags and rubbish in the corner of the brickyard. One of the reasons these people live on the job, is because they cannot leave, they are indentured workers who work to pay off a past debt, sometimes from a previous generation, in conditions of virtual slavery. In one region I saw another agricultural/industrial process, the rendering down of sugar from sugar cane. These primitive factories on the roadsides crush the cane bought in from the surrounding fields with the ‘juice' then boiled up in huge pans. Lines of these factories belching black smoke, with workers ladling the hot sugar out of the vats gives the impression of an early industrial scene, rather like the first days of Coalbrookdale. Yet this is modern India.

Where India is particularly unchanging is in anything in which the state is has any involvement, and as a hangover from the socialist planning era, it's involved in a great deal. Its interests range from banks and insurance to (on a state level) running juice stands but by far its biggest interest is running the railways. Apart from there no longer being any steam engines around the railway system doesn't seem to have changed at all over the last eighteen years. The train carriages have a chunky, metal, built to last feel to them, which is just as well as there doesn't seem to been a penny of new investment for decades. Booking a berth involves filling in a cheap paper form then joining the queuing hoards so that someone can input your details into a seventies era computer system. Indian railways are the largest employer in the world with 1.6 million on the staff, and it looks just like a giant job creation scheme. As elsewhere in government run India, there are lots of ‘supervisors' sitting around reading the paper and everyone knocks off for lunch. Surprisingly, the whole system does work very well, even if everything (even the journeys) usually happens very slowly.