If you are concerned about your own health, the next time you are tempted to buy an expensive elixir of youth in a jar, think again. Spend the money instead on sunscreen, and see your doctor for a mole check, learn breast self-exam-ination, and have a pap smear. You will still have enough money left to donate to your favourite charity, enjoy coffee with friends, and feel a warm inner glow.

Cleansing and maintenance

We clean our skin to remove the surface film of grime, dead skin cells and applied cosmetics mingled with sebum and sweat. The most effective way to do this is with soap and water, which is cheap and usually readily available. Soap and water are more effective than water alone as soap has adegreasing action; it dissolves the surface grease. Of course we are not trying to achieve `brighter than bright' or `cleaner than clean', so use a soap that is mild and non-irritating. If the skin is stripped of too much natural grease, the surface begins to flake and redden. Natural skin oil is produced for a purpose: it lubricates our skin surface and helps provide a barrier against irritating substances from the outside environment.

Cleansing creams and lotions range from thicker water in-oil types to more fluid oil-in-water types. They work by blending with the surface grime and debris (including dead surface cells), which can then be wiped or rinsed off. These may be used for cleaning the skin but are no more efficient than soap and water. In addition, they can leave a residue which may encourage pores to block and lead to blackheads. Acne sufferers should be especially wary of these products.

Astringents, often called toners or fresheners, are not recommended by dermatologists. These are based on alcohol, which is a solvent. Their use is not an essential part of skin care, as is often implied. They are simply degreasing agents and impart a pleasant tingle as the alcohol evaporates and cools the skin. They do not close pores as is often claimed. Apart from a possible psychological benefit, there is no advantage to be gained from using toners. Only use toners if you enjoy the feeling, provided you do not have dry skin as the alcohol will certainly add to the dryness.

Scrubs and exfoliating creams are often promoted as a superior method of cleaning the skin but they have no special usefulness for normal skin and are capable of making the skin irritated and dry. In any case, our skin exfoliates naturally without the need for extra help as we are constantly shedding dead surface cells in the form of minute invisible skin flakes. Sundamaged skin may benefit from some types of peeling creams or lotions.