Plenty of information is available today but much of it is excess words and too complex for the beginner. This little article should help you with the most basic needs of a marine aquarium. Marine fish keeping is different from its freshwater counterpart because of the basic differences in the composition of saltwater and the resulting differences in its inhabitants.
A stable marine aquarium also requires more equipment than freshwater systems, and the aquarium inhabitants are often more expensive to acquire.The major components of a marine aquarium are a tank, usually composed of glass or acrylic, a stand, components necessary for chemical, mechanical, and biological filtration, lighting, and a heater.
Marine Aquariums can range anywhere from tiny 2.5 and 30 US gallons to gigantic aquariums in surplus of 300 US.gallons Large tanks while easier to maintain on the biological and chemical level, are usually a financial impossibility for most individuals. For this reason, most saltwater tanks are between 40 and 100 US gallons (160 and 400 L). Aquatic plants are used to give the aquarium a natural appearance, oxygenate the water, and provide habitat for fish.
Some aquarium fish and invertebrates also eat live plants. Most of these plant species are found either partially or fully submersed in their natural habitat. Most grow and thrive fully under water. Several species of land plants such as umbrella pine and aluminum plant are also frequently sold as "aquarium plants". They will eventually die and must be removed so their decay does not contaminate the aquarium water.
The very first saltwater tanks were glass jars where the Romans kept anemones outside but were very short lived. The first personal saltwater fish keeping began on a wider scale in the 1950's, starting with the basic rectangular glass aquariums(usually 20 gallon), still popular today.
Bleached coral along with a substrate of coarse crushed coral was utilized at that time. Algae, were viewed negatively and generally removed. The clean, sterile tank was viewed as the healthiest. Saltwater was initially collected at local beaches. Natural saltwater contains many unwanted organisms, along with the occasional unwanted pollutant.
Most commonly kept marine fish of the day were the percula clownfish, sergeant major damselfish, small, brackish pufferfish and scats, jeweled blennies, sailfin mollies, and blue damsels.
Aquariums were equipped with large air compressors, and were aerated and filtered primarily with under gravel filters, Later, air driven, skimmers were invented.Maybe the largest revolution in fish keeping was a more reliable submersible electric heater. Various efforts have been made to find the chemical properties of sea water and mix in necessary trace elements to create synthetic salt mixes.
Advancements in filtration now include trickle and hang-on filters. Fluorescent lighting along with metal halide lighting established the reef tank, making it a possible to keep corals and invertebrates without natural sunlight.
More efficient chemical testing brought more successful and widespread marine fish keeping. There are various forms of fish keeping today. The basic varieties of tanks are fish only , fish only with live rock and the reef tank, containing corals, sea anemones, or other delicate invertebrates.
Live rock is rock that has been in the ocean, composed of limestone and decomposing coral skeleton, usually around a coral reef such as those around Fiji, and is usually covered with beneficial algae, coralline and tiny invertebrates and bacteria that are desirable in the aquarium. The addition of live rock is one of the best ways to ensure a healthy aquarium, as the rock provides a buffer to maintain high pH (8.0-8.3), alkalinity, and acid-neutralizing.
The microfauna found on live rock provide fish with a natural, attractive shelter. Live rock usually arrives from online dealers as "uncured", and must be quarantined in a separate tank while undergoing the curing process, which nvolves the die-off of some of the rock's inhabitants and the production of undesirable ammonia and nitrite.
Live rock that is already cured is available at most pet stores that cater to saltwater enthusiasts. Common hang-on filters usually only offer chemical and mechanical filtration through mesh and carbon, which is not enough for the saltwater aquarium.
Some hang-on filters have plates where bacteria can colonize and provide biological filtration as well. These plates should never be cleaned, as this would kill the bacteria colonies.
A small tank with only two or three fish can run very well with just basic undergravel filtration,and no protein skimming.Protein skimmers are very useful in the reef tank. These are tall columns of water into which large amounts of small bubbles are introduced, resulting in seafoam accumulating at the top of the column and spilling over into a removable collection cup. The resulting skimmate is composed of concentrated waste products With small numbers of fish a protein skimmer may not be absolutely necessary.
Another procedure relies on live rock, protein skimming and periodic partial water changes. No additional mechanical or biological filtration is necessary, as the live rock performs nitrification and denitrification. Sufficient live rock must be used, approximately 1/2 - 1 lb. per 1 US gallon. Strong circulation throughout the rock structure is achieved through power heads, water return from the sump, and/or closed-loop circulation systems.
Most fish are not particular about lighting and the light is more for the owner than for the fish. A regular cycle of light and dark, simulating day and night, is beneficial for fish. It establishes a routine and makes them feel more secure. An aquarium with living rock will need a more powerful light to encourage the growth of coralline algae. Some types include fluorescent, and metal halide.
Recent advances in lighting technology have also made available light Emitting Diodes. LED lighting is still very expensive, however they consume very little power, and they have a longer lifespan.
A temperature of 75 degrees Fahrenheit to 82 degrees Fahrenheit seems to be most common.This usually requires the use of a heater, most often submersible.
The most common things to test for in a saltwater aquarium are: Specific gravity should be kept between 1.020 and 1.024 for a fish only tank, and 1.023 and 1.026 for invertebrates and corals. Salinity should therefore be between 28-32 PPT. Salinity is directly related to specific gravity and both can be tested with a hydrometer. pH should be maintained between 8.1 and 8.3 (can be raised with a commercially available buffer or through calcium-rich substrata); Carbonate hardness should be between 8 and 12 degrees.
The nitrogen cycle refers to the conversion of toxic ammonia, to nitrite and finally nitrate. While fish waste (urine and feces), and decaying matter release ammonia, the majority of ammonia (approximately 60%) in both marine and freshwater aquariums is excreted directly into the water from a fishes' gills.
Ammonia and nitrite should be tested regularly; Nitrate should not exceed 20ppm in reef tanks, or 40ppm in fish-only tanks. It is normal to have a little nitrate buildup, and some fish handle it better than others. Most hermatypic corals, while able to assimilate nitrate, cannot be expected to perform well with chronically high nitrate concentrations.
Other suggested tests include calcium, alkalinity, iodine, strontium, molybdenum, and other trace minerals.
Water changes are a part of good saltwater maintenance. Water changes involve removing a fraction of the total volume of the aquarium, replacing that water with new pre-mixed saltwater. Pre-mixed saltwater has been dechlorinated and/or de-chloraminated. Water should be brought to the same temperature if more than a 5% change. Salinity should match that of the aquarium, or be modified very slowly if you need to modify the concentration.
Aging and aerating saltwater (such as in a bucket with a powerhead or airstone) is recommended as good practice. Replacement water should be of the same source as the aquarium.In cases where one is replacing a tap water-based salt mix with a reverse osmosis-based salt mix, the replacement water should be added slowly over the course of several hours.
If using municipal water, one should check with the local utility company to find out the composition of that tap water. Water containing high levels of nitrate or phosphate should be avoided, and reverse osmosis or distilled water used in its place. These are the very basics of operating a marine aquarium.
Seeing pictures of a healthy marine fish only or reef aquarium in books or on the internet, or even better, in reality at a public aquarium will cause just about anyone to appreciate the beauty and general fascination of them. Some people will wonder if they could have one, and the thought will shortly disappear. Others, however, will not forget so easily and will want to delve further into the possibility of having their own home aquarium.
If the potential aquarist knows a friend who already has a healthy marine aquarium, then there is a source of advice available already. The friend will already have been through all the research and considerations. Often, however, the potential aquarist will want to find out for him/herself. That is very good, as the aquarium system will be understood thoroughly. Then there may not be a known marine aquarist available, so what is the first move? Dashing to the local shop and buying an aquarium and a few bits of equipment that the shop says is needed is totally incorrect.
The first move is to follow a planning scaffold. This scaffold will be the foundation for all the decisions that need to be made in building the system. There are quite a few decisions along the way and things can get a little confusing, even to someone who is experienced in the freshwater aquarium field. The scaffold will help.
The scaffold has to prepare the budding marine aquarist so that indicative costing on basic equipment provision can be made. Often marine aquarists have equipment laying about. This could have been caused by upgrading because the original equipment was not adequate and needed to be replaced. Money expended that perhaps need not have been.
So, the scaffold then. The following is a list of headings and basic notes. It does not attempt and is not intended to open a comprehensive path from zero to a fantastic fish only or reef tank. What it does do is give a lead to follow on the way towards a successful aquarium. No doubt extra considerations will arise on the way, and that's as it should be, it means the planning is working. Each stage of planning needs individual consideration, and there will often be more than one decision to make. On the way, research using books and/or the internet is useful or necessary.
Where is it practical to site the aquarium? Try to choose a location away from direct sunlight, to assist with proper lighting control. There should not be heavy and/or noisy household traffic passing (reasonable traffic is acceptable). There needs to be a reliable power supply available, ie. power outlets. Generally easy access to the aquarium is required. If floors are suspended, consider floor strength - aquariums full of seawater are heavy!
What size aquarium? The aquarium should not stand on ordinary furniture, but on a properly designed stand. The aquarium may need a hood. These need to be taken into account. Then the available space for the aquarium can be considered.
What type of system? The system can be fish only or reef. This decision affects other later decisions. Most will opt for a reef.
Sump or no sump? A sump is a small aquarium that is attached to the main one. It supplies extra water capacity to the system, and allows heaters, sand beds and protein skimmers to be kept away from the display aquarium. The sump can be beside or underneath the display aquarium. A sump on any type system is highly recommended. (If a sump is to be used, the main aquarium will need to be drilled to allow plumbing to take water from the aquarium to the sump. It is then pumped back again.) Note: if a DSB (deep sand bed) or plenum (a raised DSB) is to be employed, the sand bed area should be at least 2/3rds of the base area of the main aquarium. The sand bed should be at least 4″ deep. Consider the cost for the fine sand for the DSB. A DSB in the sump is highly recommended. Leave enough room for a partitioned area for the seawater return pump.
Lighting? Is the system to be fish only or a reef? If fish only, then two marine fluorescents are sufficient. If reef then:
Hard corals. Best lighting is halide, supplemented by actinic fluorescent tubes. T5 fluorescent tubes can be used (marine white and actinic equally mixed) but they do not penetrate the seawater as deeply.
Soft corals. It is sufficient to use T5 fluorescent lighting (actinic and white mixed). Halide lighting can be used, however, and will not be detrimental (ensure corals exposed are light demanding varieties).
Net seawater capacity of aquarium and sump (if used)? This is easily calculated once the aquarium size and sump have been decided. This gallonage will be excessive as, when rocks and sand are added, it will decrease. Therefore, reduce the amount by 10%. This will still not be correct, but does give a reasonable allowance for displacement.
Seawater circulation? The seawater in the display aquarium will need to be circulated for the health of the inhabitants whatever they are, but particularly in a reef system. It is recommended that a minimum of two powerheads are used to achieve this. The turnover of seawater in a reef needs to be around ten to twenty times the net capacity of the display aquarium (exclude the sump) per hour, depending on coral occupants.. In fish only systems, it can be less.
Protein skimmer? A protein skimmer is essential for most systems(*), in particular where there is inexperience. The device is very useful as it helps significantly towards high water quality. The protein skimmer should be sized for around twice the net seawater capacity of the aquarium plus sump (if used). Now that the use of a sump (or not) has been decided, consider whether to use a hang-on or stand alone skimmer. (* some mud based system designs do not require a skimmer.)
Heating? The net gallonage of the system is known, so the heating need can be considered. (Note: it is best to purchase two heaters as this is a good safety feature for the aquarium inhabitants. Each heater should be one half of the total heating requirement.) In warm areas where temperatures are always above 80 deg F, the use of a seawater cooler (chiller) will replace heaters.
Return pump? This only applies if using a sump. Seawater, once it has flowed to the sump, needs to be returned to the main aquarium. A pump is required for this. As a guide, the flow through the sump should be two or three times the net capacity of the system per hour. When considering the pump, remember to factor in the lift, that is the height from the pump level to the highest point that the returning seawater reaches before it enters the main aquarium.
?Live? rock. This is used for filtration purposes (it is excellent for this) and for the construction of the reef. It can also be used in a fish only system. Allow 1? lbs for each gallon that is in the entire system. There are other filtration methods, but ?live? rock coupled with a DSB in a sump is highly recommended.
Reverse osmosis (R/O) unit? The R/O unit is a tap water filtration device that removes nearly all (around 95 to 98%) unwanted contaminants. Therefore the seawater mix is at its best from the start. It is highly recommended that R/O water is always used, including the first fill of the aquarium. R/O units come in different gallons per day outputs. Remember that usually the aquarium is filled completely only once. The normal routine water change amount is 10% of the net system gallonage weekly.
Dry salt mix? There are several makes on the market. If keeping a reef system, obtain one that is ?designed? for reefs, as additional attention has been given to calcium content etc. Fish only systems can use ?standard? mixes or as described above.
Make a list. As each item is gone through, find out and write down the likely cost. If it is electrical, also write down the wattage (W).
The evidence. When all items are priced, add them up. This represents a general guideline to the cost of setting up. If electrical, add up the wattage. Divide the total wattage by 1000, this will give kilowatts. The cost of electricity per kilowatt will be known. Multiply the number of kilowatts, including any fraction, by the cost per kilowatt, this is the approximate electrical running cost of the system per day. To get weekly, multiply by seven. Monthly, multiply by four. Etc. (Note: lights can be considered as being on 50% of the day. Heaters/coolers will not be on all the time, but it is difficult to determine a guideline percentage.)
OK. The list is there and it indicates the guideline aquarium equipment cost and electrical running cost of the system. These will not be completely accurate but near enough to either dissuade the desire to have an aquarium or to go ahead. There are other costs, of course. For example, no account has been taken of the fish and/or corals that are to inhabit the aquarium. Then additional equipment, often considered later, might be obtained, such as a calcium reactor, a de-nitrator, or a canister filter etc. Maybe coarse coral sand, ? to 1″ deep, will be used as a decoration in the display aquarium.
Nevertheless, the scaffold will have achieved its purpose, which is to generally guide the new aquarist down a path that cuts its way through what can be a confusing beginning.
After the scaffold, there is still plenty to be done. Many answers can be found in the listed articles on this site (http://www.aquaristsonline.com).
Appropriate articles can be worked through one by one. Any remaining questions can go on the forum. The internet is an excellent resource for knowledge. Typing in a name, eg, marine aquarium lighting etc, into a search engine should produce a good response. Then, of course, there are books. Nothing like an hour of bedtime reading!
Both Tom Henricks & Pbcunningham are contributors for EditorialToday. The above articles have been edited for relevancy and timeliness. All write-ups, reviews, tips and guides published by EditorialToday.com and its partners or affiliates are for informational purposes only. They should not be used for any legal or any other type of advice. We do not endorse any author, contributor, writer or article posted by our team.
Tom Henricks has sinced written about articles on various topics from Hobbies for the Family, Home Improvement How to and Fishing. Tom Henricks is now retired and enjoys working at gardening, fishing, hunting and writing. He maintains a few small websites. Articles such as this can be viewed at one of his websites. Tom Henricks's top article generates over 1600 views. to your Favourites.
Pbcunningham has sinced written about articles on various topics from Reef Tanks, Pets and Reef Tanks. Peter Cunningham and John Cunningham combined have been keeping salt water aquarium's for nearly 35 years. Visit their site 'Aquarists Online' if you are interested in the. Pbcunningham's top article generates over 1900 views. to your Favourites.