Starter kits are available, which supply additives, such as ammonia. Since, fish tanks require a degree of ammonia, the starter kits are ideal for beginners. Starter fish are also available, which can produce adequate supply of ammonia. If you purchased a coldwater tank, goldfish is a great starter fish.
When you first purchase your aquarium and fish, you want to make sure the nitrogen cycles are sufficient to provide fish the correct amount of ammonia. Tanks typically include plants, which plants will aid in purifying your tank by absorbing chemicals and providing oxygen. Plants also break down ammonia and water, which the plants will filter ammonia and bacterial in the water. Since, fish produce nitrates or ammonia, the plants will help you maintain a balance. If you ammonize your tank with starter fish, make sure you avoid overfeeding the fish. Use your test kits to check the level of ammonia in the water. Generally, it takes around five weeks or longer to ammonize your tank properly. You can purchase starter kits, or products that will help speed up the process so that you can add more fish.
Once you purchase your tank and prepare to set up the tank, make sure that you have a stand that will securely hold the tank. You want to avoid situating the stand/aquarium near windows, doors, or heaters. This will only increase algae build up, which will make your maintenance job tougher.
Once you tank is setup you can add gravel after boiling and rinsing. If you purchased pre-washed gravel you will not have to boil the gravel before putting it into the take, still you will need to rinse. Start adding the gravel toward the back of the tank for the best results. In addition, it depends on the filter you purchased as to the height of gravel placed at the front of the tank. For instance, under-gravel filters require that you use lower levels of gravel near the front of the tank. It is recommended that you install the filters and heaters last after setting up your tank properly. On the other hand, if you purchased powered filters, you should install the filters before adding gravel.
After you add your gravel, you can add ornaments and plants. Make sure you purchase marine based plants. At the start, you should only fill your tank halfway, and then completely fill it after you have added your additives. You want to use pre-treated water, to fill the tank halfway. Once the tank is full, put your thermometer in place. Next, prime the filters, which you will have available instructions with your purchase.
If you chose other than goldfish to ammonize the tank, then wait a few weeks before adding fish. On the other hand, if you chose goldfish, you can add the fish to the tank to start the ammonize process. You can prepare the fish for tank water by allowing them to float at the top of the aquarium while still bagged. In addition, you will need lights and a hood to fit over the top of your aquarium. In fact, most aquariums today come with hoods included. The hood is used to keep out critters and keep your fish in the tank. As well, the hood will help regulate the tank lights.
When adding water to a new aquarium you can't leave anything to chance, this job has to be carried out correctly or your fishes will suffer for it. Preparation is everything, if you carry out this task correctly you will benefit by getting it right first time and without getting stressed. And if you think this hobby can't stress you out, believe me it can.
A new bucket specifically kept for your hobby is essential; you must not risk contaminating your aquarium water with any pollutant residues that might be in an old bucket. Prepare your water in the bucket, by adding an appropriate amount of tap water conditioner/dechlorinator to water that is approximately 76F (25C), this can then be added to your aquarium.
Ideally water should be siphoned into the aquarium through a tube of about half an inch (13mm) diameter, various diameters of tubing will be available at aquatic shops, or if you are extremely careful you could pour the water in from the bucket, either way use an up-turned saucer or something similar to pour the water onto, this will avoid disturbing the gravel. Continue until the aquarium is approximately one third full.
If you are using live plants rinse them in water of about 76F (25C) to remove any unwanted pests. Don't let plants dry out, and when planting avoid damaging the roots. Potted plants are worth the extra expense as they are already established and less likely to be uprooted by any boisterous fishes.
You can also use artificial plants; they look quite natural and don't need regular pruning. In both cases try to position your plants so that the taller ones are at the back and the shorter ones towards the front, this will create a pleasing effect and will help to hide equipment, as well as being a natural feature for your fish.
Now you can finish filling the aquarium, in same way as before, remembering to add dechlorinator. You can also add a biological culture to the water, or directly into your filter, biological cultures are available at your aquarist shop, and they will help speed up your filters maturation (follow the instructions on the bottle).
If you are using a condensation cover between the surface of the water and the hood, you can place that in your aquarium now, and then having fitted the fluorescent light fitting and tube into the hood, place the hood on top of the aquarium. Site the control unit close to the aquarium but not where it can get splashed by aquarium water.
It's now time to switch on, make sure everything is working, and then leave it all to settle down for 24 hours before checking the water conditions and temperature. Don't worry if the water becomes cloudy, it's quite normal for this to happen and will settle after a few days, this is due to harmless bacteria and will disappear naturally.
Prepare for your Fish:
You must leave your aquarium and its filters to mature for at least two to three weeks. Leave all the equipment running as though there were fish in the aquarium, and get into the habit of switching the light on and off, lighting should be on for about 8 to 10 hours a day, keep it regular, your fishes will become accustomed to a routine.
Check the water temperature after 24 hours, and adjust the heater as necessary, keep checking daily until a stable reading of 76F (25C) is observed (unless you need a different temperature for any specific species you want to keep, then adjust accordingly).
You must not add any fishes until there are enough beneficial bacteria to cope with the waste that they will produce, the bacteria will colonise your filters and anything else that they can cling to, and multiply (adding a bacterial culture will kick-start this process).
Use your test kits according to their instructions within this minimum period, to ensure you have correct readings before introducing any fish.
Ammonia: 0 ppm (mg/l) Nitrite: 0 ppm (mg/l) Nitrate: 50 ppm (mg/l) or less pH: 6.5 to7.5 (for tolerant species)
After a couple of days you may be fooled into thinking everything is OK to introduce your fishes, because your test results indicate low or even zero readings, remember, there are no fishes in at the moment to produce waste to give high readings, what you have to realise is that you are actually waiting for the bacteria in your filter to multiply, ready for the introduction of a fish or two.
Fish waste is high in ammonia, even in small amounts it can kill. Bacteria feed on the ammonia and produce nitrites, which are also toxic to fish; these in turn are converted into nitrates, which are harmless at low levels, this process is known as the nitrogen cycle. If you introduce fishes to soon there will not be enough bacteria to break down the fishes' poisonous waste.
Check your water's pH every three or four days to ensure it is remaining stable. For a tolerant species community aquarium you should have a reading of pH 6.5 to pH 7.5 After two weeks or so, if your test results indicate that your aquarium has stabilised, you can add one or two (no more) small hardy fishes, this will further help to feed your filters bacteria colonies and give the nitrogen cycle a further boost.
Both Jody Siena & Kevin Yates are contributors for EditorialToday. The above articles have been edited for relevancy and timeliness. All write-ups, reviews, tips and guides published by EditorialToday.com and its partners or affiliates are for informational purposes only. They should not be used for any legal or any other type of advice. We do not endorse any author, contributor, writer or article posted by our team.
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