1. Surface Preparation Ceramic tile may be installed over most structurally-sound substrates. Make sure all surfaces to be tiled are clean, smooth, dry and free of wax, soap scum and grease. Any damaged, loose or uneven areas must be repaired, patched, and leveled. Remove all moldings, trims, appliances, etc. which may interfere with the installation. Door jambs may be undercut for tiles to slip under.
2. Layout When tiling walls, tubs, or shower areas, begin by finding the center point of the wall. Use a level to draw a plumb line in the center of the wall. Align a row of loose tiles across the bottom of the wall from the center line, leaving uniform joints between tiles. If your tiles have integral spacer lugs, the tiles can be abutted to automatically leave consistent 1/16" joints. If this layout leaves small cuts (less than 1/2 tile) at walls then adjust plumb center line a half tile closer to the side wall.
Now determine the lowest point of the floor (or tub) by horizontally using a level. Stack two tiles here, and at the top draw a horizontal line on the wall. With a level, continue the line around all side walls to be tiles. This line is a guideline for the first row of tiles to be set above. Begin installing tiles to the center of the wall above the horizontal guideline. Install one half of the back wall at a time. Set the lower two rows last. Cut and fit bottom tiles against the floor (or tub) if not level. Leave a 1/8" gap above the tub for caulking to seal around tub.
Repeat the above process for side walls. Mark outside tile lines on walls that will not be completely tiled in order to spread adhesive. Leave out tiles where you plan to install ceramic accessories (soap dish, towel bar, etc.) Use bullnose trim pieces to finish edges on walls where necessary.
Floor Layout: When tiling floors, begin by marking the center points of all four walls. Snap chalk lines between the center points of opposite walls. The lines will intersect in the center of the room. Make sure that the lines make perfect squares and adjust if necessary. Lay out a row of loose tiles along the center lines in both directions, leaving spaces for uniform joints between the tiles (use tile spacers). If this layout leaves small cuts (less than 1/2 tile) at walls, then adjust the center line by snapping a new chalk line a half tile closer to the wall.
Repeat this process along the other center line, adjusting as necessary. Now divide the room into smaller grids by snapping additional chalk lines parallel to the center lines. To fit the exact dimensions of these grids, lay out an area of tile approximately 2' x 3' starting in the center of the room along the center lines. Use tile spacers or leave equal joints between the tiles. Measure this grid and use the dimensions for each smaller grid throughout the room.
Begin installing tiles in the center of the room. Install one quarter of the room, one quarter at a time. Finish each grid before moving on to the next one. Cut and fit the perimeter tiles in each grid last. Leave a 1/4" gap between the tile and walls. Do not walk on fresh tiles for about 24 hours until they set.
Countertop Layout: When tiling counters, lay out tiles from front to back. Begin with counter trim then set full tiles on the first row working backward, so all cuts are made on the back row against the wall. Special trim pieces are available for use around recessed sinks, appliances, etc. if necessary. Snap parallel chalk lines on the substrate as needed to keep rows straight. For backsplashes, match up joints with the countertop tile.
Begin with full tiles at the counter, working up so that all cuts are made on the top row under cabinets. Use bullnose trim pieces on flat walls or sides. Tile countertops should have a tile backsplash at least four inches high for protection.
3. Setting Tile: Variation of shade and texture is an inherent characteristic of ceramic tiles. For a blended effect, mix tiles from several cartons as you set. Tile ceilings before walls, Tile walls before floors. Tile countertops before backsplashes. Once you have chosen the proper adhesive or mortar, read all instructions and precautions on the package before using. Mix thinset or mortar according to the directions on the package. Mix only enough to be used within 30 minutes.
Pre-mixed wall tile adhesives can be applied directly from the can without mixing. Determine the appropriate type of trowel (V or square-notch) and the right size (depth of notches) for the type of tile you are setting. Refer to the setting material package for recommendations.
Applying Adhesives: Spread a 1/4" thick coat of adhesive onto the surface of one grid area using the flat side of the trowel. Do not cover the guidelines. When completed, immediately use the notch side of the trowel to comb adhesive into standing ridges by holding the trowel at a 45 degree angle. Remove any excess adhesive, leaving the setting bed uniform and ridged. Spread no more area than can be set in 15 minutes.
Setting Tile: After determining the appropriate adhesive and mortar, begin setting the tile. Start with the first tile in the corner of the grid and work outward. Set tiles one at a time using a slight twisting motion. Do not slide tiles into place. Insert tile spacers as each tile is set, or leave equal joints between tiles. Continue until all tiles within the grid are set. When grid is completely installed, tap the tiles in with a rubber mallet or hammer and wood block to ensure a good bond and a level plane. Remove any excess adhesive from joints with a putty knife and from the face of tiles with a damp sponge before moving on to the next grid. Each grid must be installed correctly and completely within the layout grid lines for a successful overall installation.
Cutting Tile: Measure tiles to be cut carefully and mark with a pencil or felt-tip pen. Edges that are too sharp may be smoothed with a carborundum stone. Make straight or diagonal cuts using a tile cutter. Make small curved cuts with nippers. Chip away small pieces for best results. Make full length curved cuts with a rod saw. Soap dishes, towel bars, paper holders, etc. should be set in the spaces left out for them.
Apply a room temperature, silicone sealant to the back of each accessory. Position over hole and press firmly. Wipe off any excess silicone that may have leaked out from the sides. Use masking tap to hold in place and prevent slippage during cure time. After 24 hours, remove tape and grout perimeter edges.
4. Grouting Joints: Before grouting joints, the tile should be well-set to prevent breaking the bond. Refer to the adhesive package for specific time. Generally, you should wait about 24 hours before grouting. Remove all the spacers used for setting. For the correct type of grout for your tile installations, refer to the following chart: Wall/Counter Tile: Joint Width Grout Type Less than 1/8" More than 1/8" Non-sanded Fine-grain sanded
Floor Tile: Joint Width Grout Type Less than 1/8" 1/8" to 3/16" More than 1/8" Non-sanded Fine-grain sanded Coarse-grain sanded
Determine the grout color of your choice. For best results, choose on the color-coordinates with the tile. Carefully read all instructions and precautions on the package. Mix grout according to instructions. Make only enough to use within about 30 minutes. Wear protective gloves to protect your skin. Spread the mixed grout on the tiled surface, forcing grout down into joints with a rubber grout float or squeegee. Tilt the float at a 45 degree angle to aid the compacting action. Remove excess grout from the surface immediately with edge of float. Tilt float at a 90 degree angle and scrape it diagonally across the tiles. Continue the process of compacting, then scraping off excess, until you have grouted for approximately 30 minutes or when the mixture begins to stiffen. Discard stiffened grout mixture and begin cleanup procedure.
Cleanup: Wait 15 to 20 minutes for grout to set slightly, the use a damp sponge to clean grout residue from the surface and smooth the grout joints. Rinse sponge frequently and change water as needed. Let the area dry until grout becomes hard and a haze forms on the tile surface, then polish with a soft cloth. If haze is stubborn, you may want to rinse again with a sponge and clean water. Wait 72 hours before heavy use. Do not apply sealers or polishes for three weeks until fully-cured, and only in accordance with manufacturer's recommendations.
Bathrooms should be more clean than any room in the home, but it is the worst room to clean. It may be a dirty job but it needs to be done. Gather your cleaning supplies together and get to work. When it is time for the general house cleaning, it is a good idea to gather your cleaning supplies in a bin that you can carry around from place to place. However, a bathroom might use just as many kinds of products as the entire house might use--and even more. You should have another bin that holds just the bathroom cleaning supplies which includes soup scum and mildew remover, bathroom surface cleaner, window washing fluid, toilet bowl cleaner, dust rags, paper towels, sponges, scrub brush, and floor cleaner.
The first step to cleaning a bathroom is to remove any dirty clothes or dirty towels and make sure that everything is in its place. Take out the rugs before you start washing. I find that the hardest part of cleaning the bathroom is cleaning the shower. It is the most likely place to get a build up of soap scum and mildew if it's not cleaned on a regular basis. I start with the shower because it takes the most work. If you squirt the shower, sink or toilet with cleaner and let it soak you won't have to scrub so long or hard. Don't forget about cleaning the shower curtain or the shower door plus the track. There are a lot of products that are made to clean a shower. The choice of which products to use is up to you. Be careful to rinse the shower competely after you have cleaned it. It just gets rid of any other loose dirt and chemicals.
After you clean the shower, the next step is to clean the mirrors. After a hot shower has made the mirror in our house all foggy, we love to write each other messages on it. However, it leaves streaks on your mirror. Use your rags to dust any shelves, moldings, door frames and baseboards.
Next, clean the sink including the facets. Clean the sink with any product designed for bathroom or kitchen surfaces. Counter tops or a pedestal sink's pedestal are also included in this. When you have finished cleaning the sink now you can do the messiest job in the bathroom; the toilet. There are several different areas of the toilet and they all need to be cleaned. The inside of the toilet can be cleaned with a regular toilet brush and a little bit of toilet bowl cleaner or a disposable toilet bowl cleaner. The under part of the lid and the seat also needs to be wiped clean and the rim of the bowl. Clean the back of the toilet with a high quality surface cleaner. A section of the toilet that some people miss is the pedestal specifically in the back area close to the floor. You can use a surface cleaner for this also.
The final work to do in the bathroom is mopping the floor and taking out the trash. I like to use paper towels to clean the bathroom. Sponges and rags must be cleaned themselves, or all they do is spread germs. It is better to use a disposable product on some jobs that can just be pitched after use (and will be biodegradable). All of the dirty paper towels are thrown into the garbage in the bathroom, so when I empty the garbage, the bathroom is finished.
Both Bruce Mendes & Theo Steward are contributors for EditorialToday. The above articles have been edited for relevancy and timeliness. All write-ups, reviews, tips and guides published by EditorialToday.com and its partners or affiliates are for informational purposes only. They should not be used for any legal or any other type of advice. We do not endorse any author, contributor, writer or article posted by our team.
Bruce Mendes has sinced written about articles on various topics from Interior Design, Bathroom Home Improvement and Kitchen Home Improvement. Bruce Mendes has been in the retail trade business for 15 years specializing in flooring and cabinetry. He has a high end showroom in Central Ohio and a web presence at