Telling the folks back home about Thai massage will often elicit knowing nudges and witticisms about ?special? services. But those who walk the streets of the capital or any other large city will soon recognize that kneading each other is as much part of everyday life as are somtam and tuktuks in Bangkok. Colleagues rubbing each others? shoulders, teenagers massaging their grandparents and even toilet attendants giving drunk patrons a quick rubdown are all accepted occurrences and do by no means elicit any special attention.

The art of healing massage originated in India more than 2,500 years ago and was introduced to Thailand by Buddhist monks. Still widely associated with temples, Wat Pho in Bangkok is probably the best-known place for foreigners wishing to learn Thai massage. The northern city of Chiang Mai is also well-liked for its many schools offering courses of varying length and recognition. The northern massage style is popular for its more subtle and gentler technique.

But massage Thai style does only have physical benefits. It is also serves an important social function. Giving family members or even colleagues a rubdown reinforces social hierarchy, while visits to a real massage parlour are usually done in groups and interspersed with chatter between clients or between client and masseuse. But massage is not solely confined to the home or stationary establishments. Beaches popular with tourists often have masseuses peddling their services, Thai Airways offer massage in-flight and many airports and shopping centres have lines of mechanical massage chairs to revive fatigued shoppers.

Chiefly practiced by women, traditional massage is also a foremost occupation for the unsighted. ?Women can massage any clients regardless of age or gender, but male masseurs who can see may unintentionally be seduced by their visual perception,? says Aree Sanyaluck, massage instructor in Chiang Mai. ?Unsighted masseurs are able to concentrate better and have purer intentions.?

Indeed the line between genuine and hanky-panky massage can be rather ambiguous at times. Itinerant hands may inadvertently slip or extra services be negotiated. What is on offer behind the glitzy facades of ?massage? establishments sporting names such as ?Cleopatra?, ?Poseidon? or ?Sayuri?, however, could not be clearer for those in the know. Here you choose your masseuse by number tag before proceeding for a thorough wash in the bathtub (naked together). What follows has little to do with any therapeutic techniques but can be relaxing nevertheless.

Groups of males often finish up at this kind of establishment after a hard night out on town and may enjoy another round of whiskey while ogling the masseuses seated behind a two-way mirror. Not long ago, many young Thai males would have their first sexual experience with a professional masseuse. Today, pre-marital sex is more common but massage saunas still fulfil an accepted function as discreet places for men to live out their urges. This is mostly found in Bangkok and Pattaya, where massage is more associated with the seedier side of the activity.

No matter what kind you choose, massage Thai style is a unique experience and if nothing else gives an insight into the fluid borders and ambiguity permeating most everyday aspects of life in the Land of Smiles.