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[O333]Ornamental Trees And Shrubs

by Marie Wakefield, Mar

Methods of Application
Fertilizers may be put on either directly or indirectly for trees and shrubs. When sod is fertilized, tree and bush roots that stretch into the sod area absorb some of the fertilizer, and are consequently indirectly fertilized. Sod fertilization rates should be supplemented only if trees and bushes are demonstrating symptoms of nutritive deficiency.

Direct application of fertilizer may involve incorporation into the backfill soil or placement in the planting hole at planting time. However, the most common form of direct fertilizer application, broadcasting, is generally the most effective, especially relative to cost. Simply broadcasting the desired fertilizer over the soil atop the tree and shrub roots and watering it in is usually adequate. Compacted soil should first be aerated or raked.

The most sensible and efficient way to fertilize large trees is to scatter granular fertilizer on the surface of the soil and allow rain or irrigation water to transport the nutrients to the roots. Evenly broadcast the fertilizer over the area to be fertilized - that area covering the outer two-thirds of the distance between the trunk and the drip line and extending at least 50 percent of the crown radius beyond the dripline.

NOTE: Definition: The dripline is the area directly located under the outer circumference of the tree branches. This is where the tiny rootlets are located that take up water for the tree. Trees should be watered here, not by the base of the trunk, or the tree may develop root rot.

An alternative method is to position granular fertilizer into holes in the ground that are four to twelve inches deep. These holes are constructed in a regular pattern at 2- to 3-foot separations, in the same expanse as broadcast fertilizer is applied. Divvy up the fertilizer amongst the holes. This process does not insure homogeneous coverage to all feeder roots, particularly in the upper few inches of the soil surface where the bulk of the roots occur. Strong concentrations of fertilizers in these holes can in addition injure roots located next to the hole.

A commonly used commercial method is to inject liquid fertilizers into the soil. A special injection rod is used and the fertilizer solution is injected under pressure. A comparable probe mechanism called a 'root feeder' is sold at most garden centers. The long probe attaches to a garden hose and water-soluble fertilizer cartridges distribute nutrients and water directly into the tree root zone. The tip of the injection needle should be inserted 4 to 12 inches into the soil at 2- to 3-foot intervals. Fertilizers suitable for liquid injection are typically more expensive per unit of nutrient and are frequently more difficult to apply than granular fertilizers.

Spikes are another alternative for tree or shrub fertilization. These are pounded into the soil with a heavy hammer and can only be used successfully when the soil is moist. The spikes do not evenly distribute fertilizer around the tree's or shrub's major feeder roots. These spikes are an expensive alternative. Their reputation is based on simplicity and ease of application.

Foliar feeding is a quick-fix solution when a nutrient deficiency has been found. The leaves, buds and green wood are capable of a little nutrient absorption. Foliar nutrient sprays are applied with a pressure sprayer or siphon sprayer attached to a garden hose. The greening from foliar spraying is fairly quick but not long lasting. More often than not deficiencies of micronutrients including iron, boron or manganese are corrected by seasonal foliar applications.

The only predictable way to grow a Pink Dogwood, Red Dogwood, or one of the beautiful Dogwoods with variegated leaves, is to bud or graft the desired variety onto a White Dogwood seedling. That's why the botanical name for Pink Dogwood is Cornus Florida Rubra. Cornus means Dogwood, Florida indicates White, Rubra indicates Red or Pink. Cornus Florida Rubra indicates Pink Dogwood grown on White Dogwood rootstock.

Between budding and grafting, budding is the most common technique used in the nursery industry. Grafting is usually done in the late winter months when the plants are dormant. When you graft a plant you remove a small branch (4 to 6 inches) from the desired variety, trim the end of the branch to expose the tissue under the bark and then trim a taper on the end. You then trim the seedling in such a way to match and receive the branch you are grafting on to it. Timing, temperature, and humidity are all critical to the success of the procedure, which is usually done in a greenhouse.

Budding is much easier, and does not have to be done in a controlled environment. Most budding is done later in the summer when the bark on the seedling slips easily. That means that when a cut is made in the bark of the seedling it can be easily pulled away from the tissue layer under the bark. This tissue is known as the cambium layer. Here in the north Crabapples and other fruits are usually ready to bud around mid to late July, while Dogwoods are not ready until late August.

Unlike grafting where you use a small branch to attach to the seedling, when you bud you insert a single bud under the bark. Budding is usually done down low on the seedling, very close to the soil. You can bud up higher, but any new growth that appears below that bud must be removed because it will be identical to the rootstock and not the desired variety.

The budding process is quite simple. Just clip a branch from the tree of the desired variety, this is known as a bud stick because it has many buds that can be used for budding. The buds can be found at the base of each leaf. Look closely where the leaf emerges from the branch and you will see a very small bud. In the fall when the tree goes dormant the leaf will fall off, and bud will remain. The following spring the bud will grow into a new branch.

When you slip that bud under the bark of a compatible seedling, it will grow the following spring just as if it were still on the parent plant, with all of the qualities of the desired variety. Almost all fruit bearing and ornamental trees are grown this way.

Just make a "T" shaped cut in the bark of the seedling. A horizontal cut about ¼" long, with a vertical downward cut about ½" long. The two cuts should intersect at the top of the "T". Don't cut into the cambium tissue, just slice the bark and open it up slightly with your knife or razor blade. Now you are ready to remove the bud from the bud stick.

First clip off and discard the leaf from the bud that you are about to remove. When you remove the leaf, leave the stem attached to the bud stick, just remove the leaf itself. The stem makes a nice little handle to hold on to. To remove the bud from the bud stick just cut into the bark and under the bud, it should pop off easily. Again, don't cut into the cambium tissue, but make sure you are under the bark so you don't damage the bud. Along with the bud you will have a small piece of bark shaped like a tiny banana peel, and the stem from the leaf.

Holding the bud by its handle (the stem) slide it into the "T" shaped cut you made on the seedling. Make sure you put it in right side up. The stem and the leaf should protrude through the slit, and the stem should be pointing toward the sky at an angle. Push the bud all the way down into the slit by catching the bark, (not the bud) with the tip of your knife.

Now cut a rubber band so that it is no longer a loop and wrap it around the seedling to close the opening so dirt, water, air, and insects can't get in. Make a wrap below the bud, and a few wraps above the bud. Use a rubber band approx. ¼" wide, and be careful not to wrap too close to the bud, nor too tight.

You don't want to strangle the seedling, it needs to be healthy and happy so the new bud will bond to the cambium layer. Leave the rubber band on until early spring, at which time you should remove it, and clip off the top of the seedling just above the bud. As the plant comes out of dormancy the bud will begin to grow into a new branch just as if it is still attached to the parent plant, except that now it is going to grow upright and form the stem of a tree.

When this new growth reaches a height of 3 to 4 feet, clip the tip off, this will force it to start putting on lateral branches. Once these lateral branches are 18" long or so, you can remove all the growth from the stem below where the lateral branches start. Now the plant should look like a beautiful little tree. And that makes you the proud parent!

With all of that said, today it is possible to grow Pink Dogwoods by rooting cuttings under intermittent mist, however, it is tricky, and my few attempts have failed. ??? Most nurseryman still bud them.

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Both Marie Wakefield & Michael Mcgroarty are contributors for EditorialToday. The above articles have been edited for relevancy and timeliness. All write-ups, reviews, tips and guides published by EditorialToday.com and its partners or affiliates are for informational purposes only. They should not be used for any legal or any other type of advice. We do not endorse any author, contributor, writer or article posted by our team.

Marie Wakefield has sinced written about articles on various topics from Vietnam Travel, Landscaping and Auto Insurance. For and other landscaping ideas visit. Marie Wakefield's top article generates over 5400 views. to your Favourites.

Michael Mcgroarty has sinced written about articles on various topics from Gardening, Mortgage Insurance and Gardening. . Michael Mcgroarty's top article generates over 18100 views. to your Favourites.