First, a word about certification. In our current market, third party certification is essential to both organic and fair trade. As the market for both fair trade and organic grows many businesses would rather change the definition than to change their practices. We are seeing this now in the fair trade coffee market place. As time goes on a search for fair trade coffee is more and more likely to turn up non-certified ?fair trade? coffee, which is most likely just a marketing rouse to attract ethical customers. In a recent search of ebay for fair trade coffee 90% of the results were not third party certified, and upon further examination most looked very suspect. We have seen this already in the organic market. How many products marketed to organic consumers are actually certified? Companies have greened their names but not their practices. Without non-biased third party certification of organic or fair trade we are left to trust self interested parties who will only profit from that trust. So look at the labels a product caries, look into the requirements of that certification and make an informed decision. Know what labels you trust and know the ones that you feel are deceptions. With fair trade Transfair is currently the only certification agency, so look for the fair trade label.
The concept of growing organic is essential to the preservation of our environment. Herbicides, pesticides and fertilizers seep into the ground polluting our groundwater and it also runs off the fields and into local water resources. When forest are cleared for the planting of fields much of the topsoil is eroded and transported in nearby streams to the nearest lake where it deposits the sediment, filling up the lake. Working with the environment to prevent this erosion, organic coffee farmers preserve the fertility of the land by growing coffee in the shade, where coffee was meant to grow. This shade grown coffee provides the migratory birds with habitat and is thus called bird friendly. The concept of organic goes beyond protecting the environment and extends to protecting the the people who work in the fields. Many of the chemicals used in farming have been shown to cause cancer as well as many other health concerns. These concerns are multiplied when a person is repeatedly exposed to the sprays, like the farmers. How many lifelong farmers labored to provide our society with food and are now suffering from cancer (my grandfather is one of them)? Some studies have shown that organic methods even protect those who eat the fruits(even after they are washed), and also protect locals who drink the water.
Fair trade certified works in the opposite direction. First it ensures that the people are being paid and treated fairly. When it comes to fair trade coffee certification, ?fair? has an objective definition through the certification requirements of Transfair. The coffee farmers are paid a fair trade premium (currently $1.26/lb) to ensure that they have money to invest in their community infrastructure. The money supports the families through health care, education, and through providing the needed capital to improve equipment and methods of harvest so that they can compete in the open market. Fair trade goes beyond community and family support and extends to protecting the environment. One of the requirements of fair trade certification it that a premium is paid for organic coffee, currently a full 15 cents more per pound than just regular fair trade. Many fair trade farmers have switched to organic methods and are now actively restoring the rain forest in order to receive this premium. They are not doing so grudgingly either, they understand that the rain forest is their heritage and want it to be restored. They don't want to expose themselves and their families to toxic sprays when they can make a living otherwise. This explains why more than 80% of coffee certified as fair trade is also certified organic.
So why ask the question which is better when you can have both? Well there is plenty of coffee out there labeled as organic but not fair trade. The environment is being destroyed by some farmers out of what is seen as economic necessity. Organic is great, but by itself it is not sustainable, we must ensure that the people who grow it are properly compensated otherwise they are put in an economic position which lends itself to decisions with negative environmental consequences. Families that provide us with quality organic products deserve financial security. Fair trade does not compete with organic but it does make sure it is fiscally sustainable for the producers, thus ensuring future supply in our current economy..
This is why the fair trade model works. First it ensures the financial security of the farmers through fair prices, access to non-predatory loans and capital needed to market and sell their goods. Then it guarantees them a premium for environmentally friendly practices, which many times leads to conversion of conventional fields to organic. This model has been working for coffee and has now expanded to tea, chocolate and even some tropical fruits.
The results of fair trade have been amazing:
* Organic methods are being used and taught * Community infrastructure is being built/rebuilt * Clean water * Erosion control * Children in school * Quality products through quality methods * Adult education * Secure families * and sustainability
Next time you buy organic coffee or tea make sure it is also fair trade certified by Transfair. Request that your local grocer carry fair trade fruits when they are available.
The issues are complex and difficult to sort out. But it is my hope, and the hope of many others, that some day there will be the framework that will allow for certification. Of course, this would involve basic principals of fair label and environmental responsibility.
I am not part of that committee, but I am involved in these issues as a manufacturer and retailer. I would like to explain what how I consider these issues in terms of my own company.
What I will outline here are three different scenarios that offer possibilities for more transparent, ethical sourcing of fair trade gemstones from artisan miners.
Three Scenarios For Ethically Sourced Gemstones
The first scenario in the development of fair trade gemstones involves cooperatives and third party organizations that work with the artisanal miners to develop standards. The Association of Responsible Mining (ARM) is an excellent example of this type of organization.
ARM has developed standards for fair trade precious metal which have been widely recognized as exemplary. Within the next two years, ARM is also hoping to develop supply chains for fair trade gemstones as well, in some cases working with existing cooperatives, such as the Women's Mining Cooperative of Tanzania.
TransfairUSA's (the American fair labeling organization known for "fair trade" coffee and bananas) study of diamonds, if it amounts to certification, might also be considered as part of this category.
However, they not working with ARM, which seems counter intuitive, except when you consider how difficult it is to work with small scale miners.
It would be relatively easy for any fair trade labeling organization to develop standards and just put a fair trade tax on diamonds and on one of DeBeer's or Rio Tinto's well run mines.
If TransfairUSA takes this course, their action will not change anything in the sector but it has the potential make them and a few other people rich.
It will also help absolve the sins of the diamond sector. No one has been held responsible for the death of 3.7 million miners in Africa in the blood diamond wars.
A second example involves pioneers such as Eric Braunwart of Columbia Gems who has developed the resources to contract with governments and mines to create a fair trade based system with a select group of stones.
Eric has told me that he does his cutting in China in his own factory. Many suppliers and retailers in the mainstream jewelry sector now heavily depend upon Eric's selection of gemstones.
A third example includes working with individuals who contact the miners and develop relationships based upon a fair trade ethos. I work with one individual who has painstakingly developed a direct relationship with miners in Zambia and Sri Lanka.
One particular village where my contact now sources excellent emeralds had actually closed their emerald mine for years because they were no longer willing to deal with unscrupulous dealers.
His commerce now supports schools and AIDS drugs for the village as a whole. This person takes his stones to a particular clean cutting factory in Thailand in which people are well paid.
There are certainly other gemstone dealers who work carefully to assure that their supply chain, from mine to trade, is clean and ethical.
We need to find each other to support the development of a solid supply of ethically sourced, fair trade gemstones. Part of the purpose of my blog is to accumulate resources for the trade and post them.
Is Third Party Verification The Only Way?
One could argue that third party assurance is necessary in order for these efforts to be credible, but I am no longer sure of this.
At some point, radical transparency and the blog sphere may ultimately trump third party transparency. Quoting from an article written by Clive Thompson and published in Wired Magazine in April, 2007:
"Secrecy is dying. It's probably already dead.
In a world where Eli Lilly's internal drug-development memos, Paris Hilton's phonecam images, Enron's emails, and even the governor of California's private conversations can be instantly forwarded across the planet, trying to hide something illicit, or trying to hide anything, really is a gamble.
So many blog rely on scoops to drive their traffic that muckraking has become a sort of mass global hobby."
I argue we cannot wait for third party assurances for fair trade gemstones. We need to move now with radical transparency.
If someone in my network lets me know where his supply chain is sourced and cut so I can see this for myself, then obviously this person has nothing to hide.
Radical transparency supports the growth of pioneers who work within a limited network. This limited supply chain will help nurture the emerging market.
The Key Element: Trust
Each of these scenarios involves, more than anything else, trust. The people who are in my current fair trade gemstone supply network feel as strongly about ethics as I do.
Right now, they represent a valid option for moving forward without any fair trade labeling organization's stamp of approval.
Developing these contacts is the work I have to do for my customers in order to connect their money to an economic set of relationships that is fair down to its source.
With our spotty supply chain and so few people doing this type of pioneering work, it is like trying to build circles out of triangles.
Yet there are huge opportunities right now for someone work in the lower end scale. In my company, I use semi-precious in my production line even though I have had reports of terribly conditions for cutters in India.
If I had the resources and time, I would consider doing something in India with garnets, amethyst, peridot. The basic "semi-precious" gems represent a huge market.
Those of us in the jewelry trade need to consider how we can bring in as many different types of scenarios that have higher ethical standards as possible. Just focusing on a few with "fair trade" third party certification will not sufficient.
Yet the most effective means to drive this whole fair trade gemstone movement forward lies with the consumer.
When there is a grass roots demand at the brick and mortar jewelry stores for more ethically sourced gemstones, the supply chain will respond.
Both Stephen Betzen & Marc Choyt are contributors for EditorialToday. The above articles have been edited for relevancy and timeliness. All write-ups, reviews, tips and guides published by EditorialToday.com and its partners or affiliates are for informational purposes only. They should not be used for any legal or any other type of advice. We do not endorse any author, contributor, writer or article posted by our team.
Stephen Betzen has sinced written about articles on various topics from Marriage, Gardening and Feng Shui. Stephen Betzen is a long time fair trade advocate. He runs , an information website about. Stephen Betzen's top article generates over 2900 views. to your Favourites.
Marc Choyt has sinced written about articles on various topics from The Ocean Beach, Engagement Rings and Jewelry. Marc Choyt is President of Reflective Images, an ethical jewelry company, that selling fair trade gemstones online at