Variations of Faucets ?There are several styles of faucets. Those with ?single-Hole? faucet, which brings the water supply through the main faucet pipe, controlled by a valve within the faucet, or a ?4? Center set & 8? Widespread faucets, which controls the water through the two faucet controls (Hot & Cold) on either side of the faucet. ?Installing each type of faucet is fairly easy, unless there is a need to modify your existing sink cabinet, which holds your ?drop-in? sink. In this case, there is only a need to drill the appropriate size holes where each of the faucet controls will sit. ?This can be accomplished easily by setting the sink in place on the cabinet. Trace the holes in the new sink on the cabinet, where the faucet controls will be. Remove the sink, and drill the appropriate sized holes (See Manufacturer's instructions for proper hole sizes.) Installing the Waterfall faucet. ?Connecting a faucet with either of the styles of layout is easy to finish, after completing the appropriate cutouts for the plumbing to pass through.
?Your faucet assembly will come prepackaged in individual components, depending on the manufacturer. This will come with the valve assemblies already assembled (internal). When you get the faucet out of the box, make sure you have the proper size fittings, to connect the faucet to the flexible supply hoses (mentioned earlier).
?This fixture will sit directly on top of the sink or vanity surface. The mounting bolts will come up through the sink or vanity, and secure the fixture. Before securing the fixture to the surface, feed the flexible supply tubes up through the supply holes in the cabinet or vanity surface, and attach them to the fixture, in their respective supply holes. (REMEMBER: PUT Teflon? tape ON THE THREADS OF THE FITTINGS, TO PREVENT LEAKS. 1 ? times around the threads, in the opposite direction of the threads.)
?Two Hole Faucet
?The two hole Faucet requires only that the supply fittings sit down through the holes in the sink/vanity, and secured with the Securing Rings (shown), and tightened from below. The flexible supply tubes can then be attached to the respective supply inlets.
Preparation of the sink requires installing new fixtures into the sink, depending on the manufacturer. This can be accomplished before placing the sink on the wall or vanity, or afterwards, depending if there is enough access underneath/behind the sink after it is dropped in place. If you think there room will be a little tight, you should install these appliances first. See manufacturer's manuals for proper installation instructions.
Step 5 ? Placing the new sink. ?Place the new sink in much the same way that the previous sink came out, hang the upper edge of the hardware fasteners on the upper edge of the wall fasteners. ?Lower sink into place. ?Install new lower fasteners (screws, bolts, etc.) per manufacturer's specifications. ?Apply Teflon? tape to threads on sink's water supply inlets & wall supply outlets. (You shouldn't need to apply Teflon? tape to the drain threads, as this piece typically comes with its own rubber gasket.) ?By hand, attach both [new] flexible hoses to the wall water supply and then to the sink fittings. This is done by hand, to ensuring avoiding damaging threads on your fixtures. Take adjustable wrench, and gently tighten all fittings. (This should not require a large amount of force. If the fittings have Teflon? tape on them, and are tight, they should be fine. If there is a small leak when you turn your supply on, you will be able to tighten as needed.)
Step 6 ? Installing the sink Drain/Trap ?This can be the most challenging portion of the installation. Some cutting may be required. ?Install drain in sink. This may already be installed, depending on the manufacturer. ?Next, install the Trap to the drain coming out of the sink. This piece will have a loose fit, until the threaded ring is tightened. ?Hold the trap in place while tightening the outside ring. ?Attach the other end of the trap to the drain pipe/tube entering the wall. This also will have a loose fit, until the pressure ring is tightened. ?Attach Clevis bar with the mechanical pop-up stopped mechanism. This is [typical] accomplished by attaching a brass ring over the end of the clevis bar, after it is placed through the pop-up mechanism. (Note: this bar and/or mechanism may need shortening, depending on the depth of the sink or the room underneath the sink.) ?Seal the sink, as needed, around the edge of the sink, as with a vanity, or where the sink meets the wall, to prevent leaking behind sink. Turn water supply back on, run water.
COMMON MISTAKES 1.Violating or ignoring local code restrictions. Replacing a sink does not [generally] require a permit. Check with your locality. 2.Using pipes that are too small. Be sure when you are buying your hardware, that they are the correct size for the fixtures you have purchased. Your local hardware dealer can assist you with this. 3.Not using Teflon tape or pipe compound at threaded joints. This is a dangerous mistake, because without the Teflon? tape on the threads, you will certainly have serious water leaking and may incur water damage in areas below the sink. DON'T FORGET THE Teflon? tape! 4.Not leveling your fixtures when installing them, 5.Not properly aligning tubing into fittings or stop valves. (Forcing the nut onto the compression ring at an angle when the tubing is at an angle will cause a leak.) When turning the water back on in your home, always run the outside hose valve or flush your toilets to bleed dirt and air from the lines. This debris can cause problems in your sink faucets and other plumbing trim.
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