When people take digital images and put them on their computers, the pictures are generally not perfect. This is where enhancements come in, they will make it so your picture looks almost professional. One enhancement that is used often is the sharpness enhancement. The sharpness enhancement is extremely helpful. Basically it improves the quality on a fuzzy picture. Almost every editor has the sharpness too, sadly most of them aren't the best. The best ones use algorithms internally to help with the enhancement of the photo. This tool is extremely useful for blurry pictures or one with fuzzy lines and borders.
What is re-sampling and how does it compare and differ from resizing? Both these tools are used to either enlarge or reduce a photo. Re-sampling is a little less heard of than resizing but a nice image editor will have it. The difference is this: re-sampling is actually the use of algorithms that you can select that will either re-calculate the amount of pixels (reducing the size of the image) or use interpolation to enlarge the photo. Re-sizing is a lot less complicated. All it does for enlarging is double the pixels and for reducing the image it just takes pixels out and sometimes completely deletes thin lines in the picture. Re-sampling is the preferred method for professionals because the image comes back clear and appearing unchanged. Resizing doesn't work as well; it is the preferred method for beginners and amateurs because it is quick and easy. The picture ends up being blocky and choppy and won't look as nice as re-sampling. Most image editors will have the option of both.
Big question for everyone is how to convert photo files in order to get smaller pictures. This is really helpful if you want to send photo files over the internet. There are two ways to do this: the lossless and the lossy formats. Lossless means that the image stays exactly the same as it was originally. Basically different methods are applied to get a smaller but virtually untouched photo. The most common format that photo software can hand is .png. The disadvantage is the image can still end up too big, but the image will be completely unchanged. Lossy formats will actually lose some information. The advantage to this way is you will be able to pick the size you want it to end up in. The common form it is saved in is a .jpg. This will create small photos that will upload places quite easily. There are the ups and downs for both of these forms, basically do you want a smaller original or do you mind some of the photo being lost in order to make it really small.
Having a half decent image viewer is just as important as actually changing them. Having the ability to easily access and change your images in a process that isn't complicated to you is essential. There should be some definite functions, like the viewer should easily be adapt to your needs, be able to enhance photos and be beneficial to your use. Aquiring photos and adding them to your database should be quite easy. Managing EXIF data and being able to batch process is helpful. A couple recommended viewers would be Photophilia and Zoner Photo Studio. These are both amateur accessible and function filled. Helpful functions that you could have would be the batch function, editing function, a file filter would be nice and the image size via pixels.
Lets say you want to have 100 images changed, well you don't want to do that manually. What if you wanted to do multiple thing, like resize add border, then compress them? That is a tedious and time consuming task. Well good news to you, that won't be time you have to waste. They have these nifty things called batch processors. Sometimes you have to download them separately others come with your photo viewer. All that processing and time consuming image changing would be done however long your batch software would be able to do it with. But no matter how long it takes, you don't have to do it. All that you need to do is queue it up in the program with takes 15-20 minutes max press the run button and all your images are being run through, changed and put in a new directory of your choice ready to go. Anytime you don't have to spend messing around with images the better. Choosing a batch program is pretty easy there are dozens out there just make sure it has what you want it to do.
A handy tool to have if you don't intend to collect thousands of pictures is a digital photo album. This is handy because you can add descriptions and make sure you get a nice looking album for people to look at. This is different from a photo view because it actually stores all the photos no matter where they are located. The program will actually go and find all your photos. This would not be recommended if you have more than 2,000 photos because if a file gets corrupted you could lose all your pictures. An online viewer would actually be useful because then after you used a batch processor you could upload them all to the site and have just as nice of an album online. In the end it is up to you whether even want an album in the first place.
Lots of questions come in everyday about different types of batch software, and other image processes here are a couple: Q: My photos have EXIF data, but no "taken date", how can it be ? A: Basic information like the date, aperture, shutter speed etc should be written into the EXIF data of the photo by any camera. "Normally" differences between camera makes should only be with the "makernotes". Makernotes are mostly completely different with different makes.Nevertheless some cameras seem to save EXIF data without saving the "taken date". The user who did report the problem did send me one of his photos. While the other EXIF fields (camera name, aperture, shutter speed etc...) were present, the EXIF date fields were empty. The camera of the user is a Nikon Coolpix 880. Now I do not pretend that every Coolpix 880 shows the same problem. It may be one out of a given series, it may only be the Coolpix 880's sold in a specific Country, it may even be that some fake (and unperfect) Coolpix 880's have found their way to the market. Who knows? Q: I can't find any way of getting my digital camera to work on my pc. A: With most digital cameras you get a pc software. This software is intended to be used to get the photos onto the pc and to do some other tasks too.Indeed most of these programs are not very convenient and you can easily go without ever using them. Easy ways to acquire your photos (i.e. get the photos onto the computer) are described at PC camera software or how to by-pass them to acquire photos.
There are some pretty cool things you can do with Photoshop that can changed your view of text for a while. One interesting one is having some normal text and adding a few shades to make it fun and more interesting. It is in two easy steps: 1. First, create an image about 300 x 100 pixels, and 72 pixels/inch. Select a foreground color of #CACACA, and fill the image, to make the background this color. When you've filled the background, then select your text tool, and add the text you want to add, make the color of the text close to #3F3F3F A darker grey. 2. OK, now we can add the shadow. It is as easy as adding a layer effect and can come in very useful for other things too. Go to Blending Options (Right-click on text layer).You will get a menu with structure, elements and quality. In the structure menu you would select 100% opacity, 0% noise, and the solid not gradient option. For the elements you would want the technique to be softer, the spread 2% and the size 8pixels. For quality you want 55% range and 0% jitter. You can always play around a little with these, if it does not suit. (The color used for the shadow is #8A8A8A) So once you have that, just click OK, and you should get your final result. It's as easy as that!
Want to learn how to create angled lines? Having fun with photoshop there are tons of different types of angles and grids. Pulling together resources and tutorials that are correct and easy to follow can be quite awesome looking. Check out this easy way to create angled lines over your picture: 1. Open Photoshop. Open an image to apply angled lines effect. 2. Create New file with 3 pixel width, 3 pixel height and transparent background. 3. Select some foreground color. Draw angled line using Pencil Tool. 4. Select All using CTRL + A 5. Create a pattern by Edit > Define Pattern. Name the pattern. 6. Close the Pattern file and go back to image file. Create new layer. Keep it selected. 7. Edit > Fill (Choose "Pattern" from "Use" drop down menu and again in "Custom Pattern" you will find newly created pattern) 8. Select newly created pattern and fill the layer. Change the layer mode to "Multiply"
Often websites will use effects that will make their site look really fun. There are fire blasts, smoke, lightening and other cool effects that can make your site look quite professional or fun, whatever way you chose to have it. To create a quick and easy fire blast you can use the polygon lasso tool to select a shape like an elongated triangle. Then fill with white. Then you would Apply Filter > Distort > Radial Blur Zoom 100%. Next you would want to set the eraser as above and brush lightly around the edges of the shape until you have a triangle that has some missing parts around it, you don't want to go to heavy with this tool, just enough to take off a bit of the outer edges. Finally Apply Filter > Blur > Gaussian Blur Radius 1.2. Now you have a full blown fire blast, you can really do whatever you want to your blast, make it red or yellow, but these are the initial steps to doing it.
Interfaces are around us everyday, they look different for some really fun sites. Some find that is really entertaining is creating a skin for a media player, you can make them look really cool with different fun colors. They can be metallic, hunter like anything you want really. First you want to start with the base: 1. The Base With a new file in blank, make a new layer and in this, create an oval and fill it with black. Center it, and add the soft metal style. 2. Internal shape Make a selection of the oval, reduce it 15 pts. Now take out some parts, making the image more interesting. Copy the entire layer, and paste this into a new alpha layer. 3. Blur In the alpha layer, apply a Gaussian blur of 15 px 4. Levels Then hit Ctrl+L, and in the levels box, use the settings I show here in the image. Copy the alpha channel, and paste the image into a new layer ( standard layer). 5. Round corners The trick with the alpha results in an image with some rounded corners, very nice and with this style, better! Well, we need to select the shape again (Ctrl + mouse click) contract the selection a bit and create a new shape in a new layer. 6. New shape In the new layer, we need to fill the selection and apply the same style of the "base" but only changing the direction of the gradient fill to inverse. This change increases the effect of bevel here. 7. Screen Now, in a new layer we draw a shape for our screen and make it more rounded using the "alpha trick". Again, I fill this one with a gradient, inverse to make more effect. 8. Color screen One more layer to create the screen: A gradient (I like this green tones) and an inner shadow. I've added here some little lines to give the "scan effect". 9. Screen details And the rest of the screen details: The text, some lines for the volume and equalizer... Whatever you want. We are almost done... 10. Details Well... Now, the rest are add some details like buttons, screws and stuff like that... And of course, a logo if you want. Remember the use of the "alpha trick" and the styles that give the cool final effects.
Changing your photos can be just as time consuming as creating them, why don't you have some fun doing it? For this step by step know how you will learn to shade your skies different colors. This is because in pictures the sky can look a little faded and fade the rest of the image. Sharpening your sky is pretty easy, start by opening the image that you want to edit. File > Open > Image name. Then go to Image > Adjust > Selective Color and apply the following settings: - Colors = Blues - Cyan = 0% - Magneta = 0% - Yellow = 0% - Black = 100% - Method = Relative (Change color settings to your liking if you want) Press OK. Now you should create a luminosity selection by hitting the Ctl + Alt + ~ . Then create a duplicate copy of the image (Ctl+J) or Layer > New > Layer Via Copy. Now select the new layer and set the new layer's Blending mode to color burn. In the new layer erase the parts that you don't want darkened. It is this easy and now your entire picture was touched up, instead of looking faded out you can sharpen you photo.
Airbrushing techniques aren't limited to just shifting light, you can actually create an image that is a great ball of light and then set images in front behind, creating more layers. Set the brush as above and brush across the area required for general volume lighting similar to that shown below. Apply Filter > Blur > Radial Blur Zoom 100%. The result should be similar to below. Using the above eraser settings. Lightly brush over the lighting like the image below. Apply Filter > Blur > Gaussian Blur radius 2.5. Using the above settings for the lasso tool while holding shift select from parts of the render as shown below. Now simply delete these unwanted areas from the volume light area.
Creating images out of airbrushing techniques, gradiants, image editing is a lot harder than it sounds. Guess whatI am going to give you a step by step way to create a popular image: Create a normal gradient fill Layer 2 Duplicate the gradient layer and apply Filter > Render > Difference Clouds 5 times. Set the layer to soft light. Layer 3 Duplicate the gradient [layer 1] and set to multiply. Layer 4 Usings the render Apply Filter > Distort > Twirl : -75 degrees. Set the layer to soft light opacity 65% Layer 5 Usings the original render apply Filter > Distort > Twirl: +75 degrees. Set the layer to soft light opacity 65%. Layer 6 With the render, Apply Filter > Distort > Radial Blur: Zoom 100%. Apply image > Adjustments > Brightness/Contrast: Brightness -100 , Contrast -100. Layer 7 Another render copy, Apply Filter > Blur > Gaussian Blur: Radius 10. Apply image > Adjustments > Brightness/Contrast: Brightness -100, Contrast -100. Move the layer slightly to offset the shadow. Layer 8, 9 Create an area of simple airbrushing. Duplicate and offset. Layer 10, 11, 12 Create a smaller area at the center of simple airbrushing. Duplicate and reduce in size twice. Layer 13 With a black brush create a large area of airbrush in three lines at the center bottom of the image. Layer 14, 15 Create two sets of tenticles on either side of the center. Layer 16, 17 Create 2 areas of more detailed airbrushing at the start and sides of each of the tenticles. Layer 18, 19 Create 2 areas of exploding pixie dust. Set the layers to soft light Layer 20, 21 Create a basic layer with the render on again. To lighten the render duplicate this layer and set to screen, opacity 50%. Layer 22 Duplicate the render again. Apply image > Adjustments > Color Balance. Setting the highlights to yellow and mid to green. Set the layer to hard light, opacity 65%. Layer 23 Create areas of more detailed airbushing over the render, using the Crafted Light Tutorial to pick out key pertruding areas of the render. Layer 24 Duplicate the original gradient layer and carefully erase the central part, so that the image comes through from underneath but fades towards the edges. Layer 25 Create a Hue/Saturation layer: Colorize with saturation set at 0. Set the opacity to 55%. Layer 26 Create a color balance layer: Highlights: Yellow: -80, Magenta -10 Midtones: Blue +67, Green +40 Layer 27 Create a Color Balance Layer: Highlights: Yellow: -55, Midtones: Blue +60. Shadows: Cyan -40. Finally apply a gradient mask to the layer so that it applies only towards the top left of the image.
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