For this issue I thought I'd give you some of my favorite things to look for while cruising your favorite neighborhoods for those little signs tacked up on the utility poles that say "Treasures This Way, Cheap!"
Whether for yourself, or as gifts for lucky family and friends, all of the following are recommended because they are easy to find at bargain prices, fit into most cars for hauling away immediately, and offer tons of possibilities for re-finishing or painting:
Chests of drawers: Almost everyone could use a little more storage, -in the kids room, a hallway, maybe a home office. Chests have a lot of surface area which can make them a great showcase for treatments from mild to wild. Perhaps some bright jewel-tones for children with easy-to-do stencils of their favorite things. Older kids can readily help here. Nice looking wood can be stripped and refinished, perhaps adding some quiet pinstriping for accents. Cleaning or changing the hardware is a quick way to make a big difference in the appearance.
Picture frames: Not the skinny metal ones, but any wider frames can be painted simply in a geometric pattern or faux finishes like tortoise-shell or malachite. Ornate old frames that have gone dingy can be white-washed and glazed with your wall color for a subtle sophistication. Insert the photo or artwork of your choice, or add an inexpensive mirror for a piece that looks good anywhere. Frames are usually low priced, and quick to finish; perfect gifts!
Small tables or end tables: Tables, particularly those with a shelf or drawer, are eternally handy around the home. These are a great way to show off all kinds of wood or paint treatments. The tops are perfect for a faux marble finish; try it with a natural wood finish below, or an antiqued paint look.
Chairs: Wonderful accent pieces in halls or bedrooms, chairs are useful for piling books, plants, groceries, or clothes onto. And of course they're always ready to pull up to the table when extra company arrives. Chairs can look good with simple treatments like oil and wax, or crackle paint. Unless you enjoy repair work, avoid any with loose or broken joints. Snatch up any child-sized chairs, they are probably at the top of the useful/desirable, and gift-able categories.
So stuff thirty or forty dollars into a pocket, grab the classifieds, and start your engines!
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This months' question: "I'm getting hundreds of tiny bubbles in my dried varnish coats. I've switched from using a cheap brush to a good one, and using a major brand of alkyd varnish, but there's little difference. Help, what's happening here?"
Bubbles naturally form as the varnish (this can also happen with paint) is applied with any kind of brush. They normally rise to the top of the surface and dissipate. The final, light, "tipping off" strokes with the brush help speed this process. When they're trapped beneath the surface, it's because a film has started forming on the surface before the bubbles could escape. That film is usually forming prematurely for one of two reasons: either it's drying in direct sunlight, or, most likely, you're applying the varnish too thickly.
Over the last few years, manufacturers of paints and varnishes have had to reduce the amount of V.O.C.'s (air pollution) in their products. One of the ways they've done this is to reduce the amount of mineral spirits that are contained within it, selling a thicker product (that is, having a higher percentage of solids). The manufacturers now meet regulations, but you end up having to add some mineral spirits back into it to get a flowing, brush-able product. Otherwise it's easy to end up with a too thick, almost chunky, finish coat.
Try adding 5-10% paint thinner to your varnish; you may be very pleasantly surprised at what a nice difference this makes to the ease of application AND to the final appearance.
Also keep in mind a major axiom in finishing; more thin coats are always better than a couple of thick ones!
And finally, a small note: this can also happen with water-based products as well, -and for similar reasons. Try adding a little water and a tiny drop or two of liquid dishwashing detergent if you're having trouble with bubbles.
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My featured product of Issue Four: paper towels. I find paper towels to be indispensable around the workshop. I use rags for polishing or waxing because they're stronger and softer than paper toweling, but find that no matter how many rags I have waiting to be used, I tend to be too stingy with them, -not wanting to grab a clean one to wipe off a brush or clean up a spill. Instead, I have three paper towel holders scattered around the shop, and usually have a clean one hanging out of a pocket, just waiting to be used. (This was omitted during the taping of the videos as it was considered kind of dopey looking; and I missed not having one there.)
Now here's the tricky part about the paper towels; they need to be good, but not too good. The cheap brands are too stiff and "card-boardy," not absorbing much, and falling apart easily. The really smooth, soft, and absorbent ones like you find at paint stores are marvelous, but a little pricey, and I discover that I start getting a bit too thoughtful about grabbing a clean one, kinda' like the rags. But the high-end towels at the grocery store are just right, they work well and aren't too expensive. I will go so far as to recommend Bounty or Brawny in plain white. (The prints can bleed their color onto your project.)
So there you have it; more than you ever really wanted to know about paper towel selection.
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Please forward this newsletter to interested friends.
Best wishes,
David Sorg http://www.finefurniturefinishing.com/newsletter4.html
Fine Furniture Finishing Newsletter, Issue 5 This issue's topics: Staying neat and clean. **************** A question from a viewer asking how I stayed so clean in the videos prompted this issue's subject. Watching students, friends, and other professionals while they work has shown me that there is a wider range between the finicky (my end of the spectrum) and the sloppy (my brother's way, among others) than I would have initially thought existed. Herewith, some tips on staying clean(er). First of all, let me say that staying neat and pressed on the tapes was easy; I had three pairs of identical shirts and slacks, and when the cameras quit roll- ing, I pulled on regular, scruffy "painting" clothes. But at the end of many days of taping, only one shirt had gotten a little paint on it. All the pants were fine, but I was lucky; it's rare to stay that un-marked! Here's the biggest hint: always try to remember where your brush (or other material applicator) is, and where your open container of paint (or other material) is. This sounds simple, but seems to be a big source of splatters and smudges on the brush end, and minor and major spills on the container end. If you are brushing very liquid material, or using a very stiff brush, it will spatter in the direction the brush is traveling. This is convenient when you are applying a spatter coat for decorative or antiquing purposes, but not when it's ending up on your face or hands or clothes. Try standing in front of the project when you are brushing side-to-side, for example. The same goes when you're rolling a wall or, (even more so) a ceiling. Avoid standing directly in front of, or beneath the roller. If you pay attention to the end of your brush or feather or whatever, you will also be less likely to brush it across adjacent surfaces that you had not meant to paint (including yourself). Keep a rag or paper towel handy for when you forget these hints. At the container end of this back and forth movement, I have a couple of suggestions. First, have only one open can, jar, tray, etc. at a time. Put the caps and lids back on every other thing once you're done with any mixing, pouring and general puttering about type of activity. If you feel that that will be terribly inefficient, make sure that those other open/loosely covered containers are stowed well away from the area of your project! It's amazing how far elbows range, steadying hands reach out, and steps backward you will take while admiring your progress; -all headed uncannily for that open can of paint. Secondly, put no container on the floor. Keep it up on something, -a cart or stool or bench- something that is easier to see and remember. Usually you are working over a floor surface that doesn't matter for drips and splatters, or else you've covered the floor well with dropclothes, but when you kick over a can of paint or varnish (and eventually you will), it can make a huge mess, as well as losing most of the material itself. Most disconcerting! The only exception that I try to give myself is when roller painting a room and the tray (or 5 gallon pail) would be hard to use if it were up on a cart. Be especially aware here when doing a ceiling; it gets very easy to step back into the tray. (You know who you are!) If (when?) you get paint on your hands, even if you're wearing gloves, try to wipe it off soon, otherwise it starts migrating to everything you touch, including the brush handle, your face, unfinished parts of your project, -well, you get the idea... Toss used rags and paper towel straight into a trash can rather than strewing them about the floor and project area where something will somehow brush up against them. EXCEPTION: linseed or tung oil soaked stuff needs to be wash- out with water or put outside to dry or into a fireproof container. These can spontaneously combust; it really happens! These steps will go far toward keeping the paint where you want it, and nowhere else. **************** My featured product of Issue Five: mineral spirits, a.k.a. paint thinner. If you work with oils or alkyd paints and varnishes, you'll need to keep some- thing around for thinning and cleaning. For most people, most of the time, I recommend odorless mineral spirits. Odorless is a little more expensive than "plain" spirits, but I think it's worth it if you will be working inside. It is slightly more refined than its stinkier brother, hence the higher price. Turpentine is a much older product, still mentioned often, and still available, but I suggest avoiding it for two reasons. It costs a lot more and works no better than m.s.. And it's more toxic than paint thinner, whether it's breathing it or having it on your skin, though it does have that olde tyme painter smell... Try to minimize your exposure to these solvents. Keep a goodly amount of ventilation going, or wear a respirator (not a dust mask!). Wear gloves (see Issue Three) if you expect much physical contact (sponge painting, for example). If you use it to clean paint off your hands or other skin, follow up quickly with soap and water. More often these days, I'm using the citrus-type cleaners directly on my hands for removing paint. I think this is easier on my skin, -maybe a lot easier on my liver (which apparently is where all the nasty things go that you absorb through the skin). I recommend that you buy mineral spirits by the gallon, quarts are too expensive for something that doesn't go bad and that you know you'll eventually use. **************** Article URL: http://www.finefurniturefinishing.com/newsletter5.html Please forward this newsletter to interested friends. Best wishes, David Sorg
Liam Hoolahan has sinced written about articles on various topics from Ezines And Newsletters. Hi, my name is David Sorg. Join me as I show you how easy it is to get beautiful results with your projects. I've been a professional finisher for 17 years, as well as an instructor for art schools, finishing seminars, and for individual students.. Liam Hoolahan's top article generates over 1000 views. to your Favourites.