The Golden Temple lit beautifully at night is a sight to behold.

Spirituality hit you in the face, gently, with a feather, as the impressive structure rose in front of your eyes, standing in the middle of a crowded market selling everything from golden papads(like chips) to silver kadas(bracelets). As you step across the little waterway, and see the golden glow inside, you will be surprised. The resonant sound of kirtan(singing), many Sikhs doing volunteer work?cleaning, handing out Prasad, maintaining order helping people pray?the immense composure of the place is astounding. There is something intense about Sikh and Buddhist places of worship that you do not find elsewhere. Though there is a long, snaky line to enter the main Gurudwara for a glimpse of Granth Sahib, no one pushes, no one speaks loudly, no priest comes trying to tell you which ceremony you should perform, following it up with how much it would cost. Gentlemen who perform their dull duties without complain, without accepting money, just in the name of god.

There is no talk of money and what is appropriate to offer. And whether you offer Prasad or not, you get to eat it anyway. You would be a fan already.

The spiritual capital of the Sikhs, Amritsar is one of the most ancient and fascinating cities of India. It derived its name from the pool around the Golden Temple (Harmandir Sahib), which means ?Holy Pool of Nectar?. A major part of the city's history revolves around the Golden Temple, which is the prime and distinct attraction in Amritsar.

The fourth guru of Sikhs, Guru Ram Das, founded Amritsar. It is said that Guru Ram Das selected three villages to lay the foundation of a new village, which would eventually become a centre for the congregation of Sikhs.

GETTING THERE

Fly to Amritsar via Delhi on most domestic airlines, book online for best fares from your city.

WHEN TO GO

All year round as evening are cool, though best from October to March

Eat

Everything! Amritsari kulche, and everything else at the Dhabas(kind of restaurant). Papads(like chips) and badis(salty)- all sorts of flavours in huge variety are available at shops across the city. Ask at the hotel.

SEE

Jallianwala Bagh, but of course for a nostalgic few minutes. Also you must see the night palki at the Golden Temple.

What to Shop for:

Amritsar is famous for woolen blankets and sweaters. Carpets and dry fruits are also worth checking out. Katra Jaimal Singh in the old city is good for shopping. For some interesting shopping stroll down the alleys and by-lanes of the bazaar area.