Amid the havelis of Shekhawati, the fort at Nawalgarh is the base for Shekhawati Brigade Horse Safaris. A well-oiled operation brings you the best of riding experiences: 22 Marwari, Kathiawadi and Sindhi horses can take you cross-country in unspoilt terrain. A team of one outrider, an ex-army cooks, a camp in charge, and folk musicians escort you through semi-desert terrain, forests, salt lakes, marshes and flat grasslands. Camp is a luxurious affair, though you must bring your own chaps, helmet and boots. Confident riders best enjoy this holiday, though there's no bar against beginners; you'll cover 25-40 km a day. In November, you can join the Pushkar Fair Horse Safari (3-17 November, 8N/9D).

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Pushkar Resort

And you thought it would be all sand. Try15 acres of green, 40 luxury airconditioned cottages with private sit-outs (single $50, double $60), restaurant, conference facility, golf driving range, swimming pool, a royal Kafila safari, telescopic star gazing, ayurvedic massages, sand volleyball, traditional Rajasthani performances? you can visit Pushkar's sites of interest and crafts-shop till you drop. If you can make it in time for the Pushkar camel fair (November 16-19 this year) it's well worth it. GETTING THERE from Delhi takes the NH-8 (400km, 7hrs) to Ajmer or the Shatabdi (Ajmer station is 11 km from the resort). You can also fly to Jaipur (130km/ 2.5hrs away) and drive down from there. Just ask for Motisar Road, Pushkar.

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Chambal Valley

The famous Chambal ravines, home to dacoits and gharial, are the ultimate badlands? with a difference. If you drive just over an hour from Gwalior, you hit the rich archaeological sites of the Chambal valley- Morena, the circular temple of Mitawali, Dubkund and Kuno among others. The arid beauty of the land and the dramatic ravines can be very seductive. The forest Department has started river cruises on the Chambal. If water sport is your thing, consider rafting on the Chambal River in the Kota region between Jawahar Sagar and Dholpur. And there is the National Chambal Sanctuary in Morena-repository of the rare Gangetic dolphin, and gharial.

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