The desert is not always a waste. Head for the 18,000 sq km area in the north of Gujarat to find out how much of a waste it isn't. The Great Rann was originally an extension of the Arabian Sea, closed off by centuries of silting. In Alexander the Great's time it was a navigable lake, but it is now an extensive mudflat, inundated during the monsoon. No visitor to the Great Rann has yet been disappointed; it's a stark and strange terrain you won't ever forget.

There's a lot to see in the nearest town, Bhuj, as well: the 18th-century Aina Mahal in the old part of the city, the cenotaphs complex at Chattaradi, and the ancient seaport of Mandvi among other. Kutch is, of course the center of a rich craft tradition, which you can view in the bungalow of James McMurdo.

The ghost town of Lakhpat is 151 km from Bhuj.

You can fly to Bhuj from Mumbai twice a week ($125) as well as from Ahmedabad. There are direct trains from both places to New Bhuj Railway Station. You can also drive, or take state transport buses or luxury coaches. These and auto rickshaws and taxies, are available to all centers in Gujarat. There are no five-star deluxe hotels in Kutch, but there are a number of comfortable hotels. Try Hotel Prince (new Station Road; 02832-20370). Plenty of tour operators offer well-trodden tourist circuits, but you can also choose to chalk out your own route. Since this is a border area, you need a (easily obtained) permit from the Collector's office in Bhuj, off College road.

THIS PART OF THE ARABIAN SEA WAS CLOSED OFF BY CENTURIES OF SILTING. IT'S A STARK AND STRANGE TERRAIN YOU WON'T FORGET

The Great Rann is the winter home of migratory flamingoes when they arrive near Khavda. It's the largest flamingo colony in the world. If you can, time your visit with the Kutch Mahotsav in February; it's a spectacle worth the trip. You'll need light woolens.

Nubra Valley (Himachal Pradesh, India)

Beyond the world's highest motor able stretch across the Khardung la (5,578m) lies the beautiful Nubra Valley bordering the Karakoram Range, opened to visitors only in 1994 (you need a permit, easily available in Leh). Hot springs, gompas, and walks await you. Fly from Delhi to Leh ($100), and then take a bus to either Diskit or Panamik, the two main villages in Nubra (IO-hr ride, $25). You can rent jeeps from the Leh Taxi Operators? Union ($110 to Nubra + $10 nights? charge; 01982-53309). There is accommodation at the guesthouses in both villages. Be warned Nubra in winter is not for everyone. This is not the tourist season and facilities will be shut. But if you like extremes pack your bags.