Choosing a surface:

There are many different surfaces that you can use for paths, including: Gravel: Gravel is a popular choice for front paths, drives and seating areas, as it's cheap, quick and easy to lay. Rake gravel over a base of pounded-down rubble. Brick: A well laid out brick path gives character to most garden settings particularly to the cottage garden environment. Combinations and patterns used when laying a paved brick area can make for a variety of pleasing effects. Engineering bricks are often recommended for well used garden paths as ordinary house-bricks will crumble and turn to rubble after continued frost. There are other types of strong bricks with cut surfaces, which are fairly weather resistant and will serve you at reasonable cost.

Cobbles: Cobbled sets need cementing in place and though decorative, can be quite difficult to walk on so they make a good surface for paths that aren't designed for those in a hurry.

York stone: York stone is beautiful-looking paving for seating areas, but don't use it where you need to walk regularly in winter as it's dangerously slippery when wet. Bark: Bark is ideal for temporary paths and it's a good alternative to lawn or paving in shady spots where other surfaces grow green slime, however it will need to be topped up at regular intervals.

Wood: Wooden decking or sleepers make good paths near a pond or bog garden, or as an informal 'bridge' over a stream or ditch. However they can become extremely slippery especially in wet conditions. Tack wire netting over the decking to make it nonslip or alternatively power wash the timber twice a year to prevent slipperiness. Paving slabs: Paving slabs are a good all-round choice. Use them for seating areas and serious paths, or sink them in grass or gravel as stepping-stones.

Gravel Paths:

The size and grade of gravel is important when laying a path. If you intend the pathway for pedestrian use only then a 10mm, 14mm or 20mm "single sized" gravel is the usual preference for aesthetic reasons. However if for example a wheelbarrow is to use the route then a single sized material is too easily displaced under the load of the wheel and a 20mm "graded" product would be preferred. (A graded product has a wider range of particle sizes than a single sized product).

Most paths, excluding grass and stepping stones 4 to 5 sq. ft. or larger, require a base of coarse crushed stone to stay level for years to come. Soil type and climate determine how deep to make it. In general, figure on a base 4-inch (10cm) deep in mild-winter climates with well-drained soil, and 5 to 8 in. deep if you live where the ground freezes. Improve drainage in heavy, clay soil by placing a 4-in.-dia. PVC drainpipe down the centre of the path, enclosed within the gravel base. Drain holes should face down.

Prepare your path so water drains off the surface. You have two options: Install the path so the finished surface is 1/4 to 1/2 in. (6.35-12.7mm) above the adjacent grade, or slope the path away from your foundation or driveway 1/4 in. per foot of path width. Apply a levelling course-usually 1 to 2-inch (2.5-5cm) of sand-over the base so you can move a stone or brick around until it's nested just right. An optional layer of landscape fabric between the gravel base and sand prevents sand from filtering through the gravel.

Use professional-quality masonry edging to hold bricks, concrete pavers and small stones in place.