China Square Central is not exactly the easiest place to find, but Chiang Mai Palace may be the perfect reason to draw you on an arduous hunt for this elusive row of shophouses. Do not be mistaken – China Square Central is nowhere within China Square; in fact, the two are separated by a vast Far East Square. Chiang Mai Palace sits reticently along this quiet street and draws its overwhelming lunch crowd with a blend of an impressive menu, featuring over 100 items, and an air of raw cultural finesse.

• The Vibe
  The restaurant walls are entirely adorned by full-sized murals that took four Thai painters several days to complete. These are no boring picturesque landscapes, but rather simplistic graphic designs of Thai temples and costumes that lend an undeniable edginess to the ambience. In shades of cream, brown and gold, the restaurant is decked out in a soothing resplendence that does not impose. Rather, it exposes the patrons to Thailand's culture in a playful, casual manner.

• The Food
  Tom Yum Soup is synonymous with Thai cuisine. One cannot step into a Thai restaurant and leave without having a Tom Yum soup. Well, of course you can, but that's almost a heinous crime, as terrible as asking if they serve Tiramisu in a Chinese restaurant. Chiang Mai Palace serves a beautiful Tom Yum Thalay ($10 for regular, $15 for medium, $20 for large) that features plenty of seafood, vegetables and aromatic spices. The assortment of thalay (seafood) is nothing unusual, but unlike other restaurants that serve an evil-looking crimson concoction that threatens to burn your tongue, throat and stomach, this Tom Yum Thalay is a less fiery-hot version that packs in just as much spices. Its fragrance is alluring, and because the soup does not numb your taste buds, you are able to drink to the last drop. You don't even have to worry about it cooling off to an unappetizing, sediment-filled liquid because the soup comes served in a pot placed atop a flame.

  Having whetted your appetite with soup, have a Po Piah Thod ($8), or Thai Spring Rolls, for a crunchy starter. Fried to a lovely golden shade, these spring rolls are amazingly delectable. Bite into a roll and hear the resounding crunch! The spring rolls are served with a sweet chilli dipping that enhances the light filling of vegetables and rice vermicelli, which reminds me of yummy Vietnamese rice paper rolls although I prefer sweet Thai chilli to fish sauce anytime.

  Craving for some authentic Thai noodles? The Pad Thai Thalay ($10) is a sweet choice, literally. Thai style rice noodles are fried in a sweet and slightly spicy sauce with seafood to make a highly popular dish in this restaurant. The rice noodles bear a suspicious resemblance to our local char kway teow. Throw in some lime for an extra punch of taste in this noodle dish, which is a good choice for those in a rush. Otherwise, go on and try other dishes because it just reminds me of a not very well-done char kway teow.

  Chiang Mai Palace takes great pride in their fish dishes. Offering a choice of garoupa or seabass, patrons can choose their desired fish and how it is to be cooked – whether deep-fried or steamed, in different sauces or plan, et cetera. I went ahead with a Pla Sam Rod ($30), a deep fried garoupa in three sauces, to satisfy my craving for some comforting fried food. The fish is lovingly deboned for diners' convenience, and smothered with three different kinds of sauces – sweet, sour and spicy – for a layered taste. The fish is crisp and firm, its freshness highlighted by the sauces. Feel contented as the tantalizing flesh teases your palate and glides down your throat.

  Alas, at dinnertime, desserts have all been snapped up for the day so I did not have any of the mango sticky rice that I so hankered after. Chiang Mai Palace prepares their desserts daily and sees such overwhelming support that the dandy treats usually run out during lunch.

• The Service
  Beware the lunch crowd, where executives in a rush will snarl and growl if service wasn't quick. The three chefs are worked up into kitchen frenzy during lunch hour, so if you fancy something that doesn't suggest a Fast & Furious: Chiang Mai Drift, pop in after the mad rush. Then, the service may be more of a palace standard but you stand to miss out on the desserts.

SD Food Advisor's Take on Chiang Mai Palace
There's really nothing palace-y about this place, but that's not necessarily a bad thing. The casual air and affordable prices go hand in hand to attract white-collared executives around. Their second and up-and-coming third outlet, at Circular Road and Beach Road respectively, are proof of their steady success. However, if I am seeking something more exotic in Thai cuisine, Chiang Mai Palace is not the obvious choice. I would take up this restaurant for more of a quiet affair, where comfort and familiarity is of utmost importance. Yes, that's where the appeal of Chiang Mai Palace lies – in its sense of familiarity and homely comfort.