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All About Lawns In Your Home

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To make curves or to form a circle, drive a small stake into the ground and attach some string to it. At the opposite end of the string, attach a funnel filled with sand. Pull the string taut to the length required, and then use it to make an even curve. The sand will fall making a visible line marking out the shape.



The right type of grass - one that suits your needs and likes the local weather - will always give better results. Grasses vary in the type of climate they prefer, the amount of water and nutrients they need, their resistance to pests, their tolerance for shade, and the degree of wear they can withstand. New grass varieties and mixtures come out on the market every year, ask the expert at your local garden centre about what's right for your particular area and needs.

To prepare ground for a new lawn, rototill the topsoil to a depth of two to three inches. You can usually rent tillers at your local machine and garden hire store to make this job much easier. Then grade, water well and apply a fertilizer high in phosphorus. If you are starting from seed, apply seed using a drop spreader to ensure even coverage. Then lightly rake the seed into the soil to prevent it blowing away. Once the grass is 2 inch (5cm) high, you can begin mowing.

Laying a Lawn:

Turf has the advantage over seed in that you can have a lawn almost instantaneous. From soil preparation to final layout, it's possible to install a modest-sized sod lawn in one day. If you buy turf from a reputable local grower, you are guaranteed to get a grass that grows well in your area. The grower may offer several choices, from low to high maintenance.

You can lay turf at almost any time of year, even when the ground is slightly frozen or during the heat of summer (although you'll need to water more in summer). In comparison, only spring and autumn offer sufficiently favourable conditions for sowing most seed lawns.

Turf is especially useful where patches of lawn have become bare, weedy, or damaged. Winter use of street salt in northern regions is one major cause of damage. After removing the threadbare turf and preparing the soil for planting, you can buy a roll or two of sod at a garden centre and place it over the area. Again, a seeded lawn would take several weeks to fill in and look lush.

If erosion is a problem on a slope, no matter how gentle or steep the incline, turf is the better option. Its healthy, heavy root mat will withstand water runoff even before the lawn is fully established.

On delivery day, water the soil to make it moist and damp but not muddy. Turf should be put down no more than 24 hours after it has been cut at the farm, because the rolled turf will heat up and begin to biodegrade.

Inspect the turf before the delivery truck leaves. Shake it to make sure it doesn't fall apart. The turf should be green and the soil moist. If you don't like the appearance, refuse to accept it and send it back.

Suppliers usually transport turf on pallets carrying 50 to 75 square yards each. To avoid a lot of heavy lifting, ask the driver to place pallets in convenient places around your property (but don't let them drive over walkways or patios, because the combined weight of the truck and the sod can cause damage).

Begin to lay the turf along the longest straight line next to a sidewalk or driveway. When preparing the soil, leave the soil level 3/4 to 1 inch below the level of that straight surface to make a neat, smooth transition from grass to pavement. Butt and push the sod's edges and ends against each other tightly, without stretching. Stagger the joints in each row like bricks, and avoid gaps or overlaps. On slopes, place the turf pieces across the slope.

After lying the first row place a plank of wood over the top so that you can stand or knell on it to lay your next row. This spreads your weight and avoids walking on the new lawn.

Use a large knife to trim the corners. Avoid leaving small strips at the outer edges, because they won't retain moisture.

After installation, roll the entire area with a lawn roller (available from machine and garden hire stores) one-third full of water to press the sod roots into the contact with the soil.
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