I cannot begin to imagine what life must be like in isolated little enclaves where the inhabitants have only one another for socializing. In areas like Guanajuato that still have such few Gringolandians, the "Social Incest" (as the southeast Asian locals used to say the Americans there committed) must be incredibly horrid. At least in San Miguel de Allende there are enough Gringos (about 12,000) so one can avoid some and commune with others. In Guanajuato, that luxury is not yet open to the Gringo. Since they cannot speak Spanish, for the most part, they are forced to deal with one another. This is a perfect recipe for mental instability.
I had an email correspondence with one of Guanajuato's mentally unstable Gringolandians recently. I had stupidly believed that I should seek reconciliation with this woman over an incident that happened months ago. I tried letting time heal before approaching her, only to be told that I lacked the ability to perceive anything, think anything, be anything, and the list droned on. Why had I bothered? I am asking myself that very question this morning.
The brouhaha in the Guanajuato Gringolandians that is coursing its way through this little isolated and exclusive group is the fact that I have been sharply critical of the need to have in existence something called Gringolandia. My contention is that if the Gringos would untwist the panties they have all twisted in a knot over learning Spanish, they would not need to form enclaves because they would live in Mexican neighborhoods, shop in Mexican stores, and live in the Mexican culture. Why would you need to form a Gringolandia if you learned the language, the portal to the culture?
Another thing that has riled them is that I have also criticized aspects of the Mexican culture (I try being an equal opportunity critic) that I had to deal with at the time I wrote about particular issues and had yet to arrive at some sort of personal coping skills. I was offering a running commentary, of sorts, of what I was going through in the culture. One particular thing was the issue of how Mexican woman will plainly and determinedly push you out of the way at a counter and demand that they be waited on before you.
At first, we wondered if this was because they were secretly thinking, "You piece of Gringo slime, get the infierno out of my way."
So, we began asking the local shopkeepers what this was all about.
One lady, who was not from Guanajuato but from a different region of Mexico, told us that the fine ladies of Guanajuato were a bunch of Malcriadas. This means basically ill-raised. (I might add that other Latinos have told us that the Mexican women here are generally rude and deeply disturbed. Whether that is true or not, I do not know.)
Well, you would have thought I had reported something like, "all Mexican women have sex with burros, all the Mexican men are the offspring of the coupling, and Americans love to watch it all happen!"
Really, you would have thought I had reported the vilest pornographic thing.
Their reaction was that strong.
Their current consensus is that I have lied about everything I've reported. They contend that no one else has told me such things and that I should go to prison for breaking the libel laws of Mexico.
Now, hold on a minute and be sure you get this. Here is a group of people who COULD NOT ask a Mexican employee any question, much less one relating to culture, telling me I made this up. I lied. I am a liar. I should have to live in a Mexican prison for the next few years.
These people are such a collective group of nutters that they've had meetings, mostly by email but some in the flesh, to plot my demise. What I have written above is just part of the package to present, I suppose, to the local Mexican prosecutor.
To be fair to these poor deranged souls, I have to tell you that there are other articles I've written to which they object and for which they would love to see my head on a stick.
But, back to the store counter thing. I am not sure whether they think I am making up the answer we received from one of the store's employees that these pushy women are "Malcriadas" or that they will shove you out of the way, or both. Probably both, if I read my nutty Gringolandians correctly.
The Blogger of "Adventures Of A Third World Shopkeeper" reported this:
"My favorite baker here in downtown Tampico was very busy, as usual, and there seemed to be a shortage of staff to wrap one's bread and pastry selections. Also, there seemed to be an issue with their cash register and an older lady (who had the mien of the owner of the business) was taking money and making change from a small pile of coins. Waiting in line, a young woman pushed to the front, rapping her metal bread tongs on the counter, loudly demanding to be served - and she was. However, I was before her in the line to pay yet this didn't stop her from shouldering me aside with a withering look. Being of very British reserve, however, I kept my counsel. Yet another person, an older woman, pushed in front of me to pay and I politely said to her, "Excuse me, Se?ora, there is a line just here." The reaction was incredible. Had I called her a c**k-su*k*ng wh*re it might not have garnered the same kind of shock from those within earshot. It was almost comical. The three employees behind the counter, the lady customer and the lady owner regarded me with such loathing for committing such a gross solecism. Immediately, the lady owner made soothing noises, apologized fulsomely to the LADY WHO PUSHED IN and accepted her payment. I was tempted, at that point, to leave - but I happen to like their bread. I couldn't make this up if I tried and I tell of it by way of illustration of a certain aspect, perhaps, to the Mexican 'national character'. Pushing forward in a waiting line is not seen as being something worthy of public comment - although, naturally, certain exceptions exist. The reader may draw their own conclusions."(www.eddiesayshola.blogspot.com)
The point of today's rant is that there are other observant Gringos who have experienced what I have reported and what my wife and I have experienced.
This star member of Gringolandia, this women with whom I sparred, has told me repeatedly that the Guanajuato I report is not the Guanajuato she knows. Well, good for her.
I wonder if she's ever in her life been in a store other than the Super Wal-Mart (which they have in a couple of larger towns to the west of Guanajuato) where there are no counters at which she would most certainly be shoved out of the way by Mexican women.
Here are two comments from The Blog entry I quoted above:
I often do what you did. Of course, the folks rarely get back in line, they just stare blankly at you and stay put. The people serving them continue serving them, also blank-faced. Sometimes I wish I had an UZI. It amuses me greatly when I read and hear from Gringos (Yeah, I know you are a Limey, not a Gringo) who say they moved down here, or want to, because they loooove the culture and the people. The people are soooo polite. Yeah, right. My arse they are.
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'Eddie'-
Similar experiences here lower in Mexico, the Xalapa area - Most of the time when I bring the subject of a line up the offender totally ignores my existence. This most often compounds the frustration. I certainly don't think Mexicans have the corner on line rudeness ? but as you write so well it is alive and well here in this the most tranquil of countries.
American Living In Mexico
One, their views help me refine my own.
The second reason is that I owe it to "the other side" to be able to fairly and accurately characterize their position on an issue with which I take exception. Not to do so and then try to argue against that liberal position is dishonest, unfair, and unthinking.
Sometimes some liberal op-ed writers make an awful lot of sense, sometimes not. I can say the very same thing for those on the right. One of my favorite writers on the left is Susan Estrich. I read her with an almost religious fervor. I don't always agree with her arguments. But, when I do it is because she did one thing most backbiting pundits, screed generating Bloggers, and most everyone on the planet refuse to do: THINK.
The older I become the more convinced I am that critical thinking skills are what is lacking in the hearts and minds of Americans. I include those with little education to a lot of those with so-called educations. I wonder, if asked, could average Americans explain how to think critically about an issue? Could they articulate the principles involved in determining whether someone is offering them a sound, well-reasoned argument or if they are being fed a load of crap?
Susan Estrich once said something that applies to my present expatriate circumstance as I sit in the city of Guanajuato, Mexico, typing these words. To what she was referring was a specific issue on which she was opining with her editorializing prowess.
Her point was, why engage in mindless attacks on the messenger when you should be debating the message that the messenger was bearing. Even in this particular op-ed, what Susan should have pointed out was even in the opposite side's meaningless personal attack, the attackers were not employing correctly argumentum ad hominem. They just attacked because, frankly, I don't think they could do otherwise. They lacked the skills. I will tell you why I think that later in this essay.
"I come from the school of politics that says ultimately, we're all on the same team, that you fight as hard as you can all day, but after the day ends, you drink together, or eat together, or party together. Whatever it is that you do, you do it with people on the other side, as well. It's a disagreement, not a war. We're partisans, not enemies. I don't call this the ?old? school but the better one." -Source Below
This was an excellent quote from Susan Estrich's op-ed that rather nicely sums up what I've been trying to do in my writing about American Expat issues in Mexico.
I disagree profoundly with the formation of Gringo Expat Communities or Enclaves in the cities and towns where Americans land when they expatriate to Mexico. I believe the primary reason these Gringolandias are formed is because Americans will not, not that they cannot, learn Spanish.
This has been historically true almost everywhere Americans have gone overseas. They will form enclaves based almost entirely on the fact they are linguistically challenged and unnecessarily so.
During the height of the Cold War, when the U.S.S.R., our enemy, sent Foreign Service workers into the field, they came linguistically and culturally ready. The arrived on site with bilingual fluency.
The Americans? They did not. Even today, as was true in the 40's and 50's in Southeast Asia, America's Foreign Service workers are not required to know the language in the country in which they find themselves stationed.
For a good read, go to Amazon.com, type in "The Ugly American" and buy a copy. It is a fictionalized version of actual events. In the book, the point is made that to not learn the host country's language is to offer its citizens the utmost disrespect. When I ask the locals in Guanajuato the following question: "?Ud. cree es una cuesti'n de respecto para que los americanos aprendan espa'ol cuando se mueven a M'xico?"
The unanimous response from college-aged kids to older adults has been a resounding, "YES!"
I wish I could report to you that those in Guanajuato's Gringolandia have brilliantly engaged me in civil discourse and rational debate in which they offered me a well-crafted critical counter argument that took my premises to task. But, I can't tell you that.
The extent to which these Gringolandians have engaged me has been with face-to-face and email threats, vile and profane comments, and claims that I have broken Mexico's libel laws for which they would like to see me put in jail.
Just yesterday, I sent an email to a lady in Guanajuato's Gringolandia at the bequest of someone who told me this woman was eager to make amends. She was not. As is the case with so many, the extent of her counter-argument was that I was a crazy man incapable of the perception of a normal human being and that I was never to contact her again.
So goes the American Democratic concept of the Market Place of Ideas in which you debate hard, argue as brilliantly as you can, and then, at the end of the day:
"? you drink together, or eat together, or party together. Whatever it is that you do, you do it with people on the other side, as well'We?re partisans, not enemies."
Thanks, Susan, for some great prose.
Shame on you, you Gringolandians!
What I've been presenting in my prose is a disagreement, an opinion, not a war!
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