In judging the color of diamonds it is necessary to obscure the prismatic play of colors in order to see the true color. You can do this by giving the stone a puff of breath and then studying the color while dim. It must also be remembered that diamonds also have faint color differences in them. The diamond cutter will often try to cut the diamond so that it will face up. It is often necessary to view a stone on edge as well as face up. Often a stone will display better color face up that it will on edge. These differences affect values that you must be aware of in order to profit by them.
Some stones have such variation in color according to their positions that they are called false color stones. The stones may seem to be blue when faced up, yet brown or yellow when seen at another angle. These stones are often very over priced, if the defect is not detected. Very few- high priced blue gems are really blue in body color. Most of them only appear blue due to a bluish fluorescence which becomes more evident in stronger light. Most of these stones appear inferior to in beauty to pure white stones when viewed under none fluorescent light. This must be taken into consideration or more may be paid for a lesser stone.
Another point that must be taken into consideration is that large masses of stones may appear deeper in tint than similar masses or single stones. Large parcels often draw color. It is very important to divide large lights into smaller ones for study and comparison.
A good lens is essential in judging the color of diamonds. You need a lens that can still see clearly when the object is within an inch or less of the eye. The true color of a diamond is more apparent when viewed under a lens. The light from the stone is caught before it has had a chance to scatter widely. A lens with one inch focal distance is best. Anything more powerful or less powerful is just not as efficient as a one inch.
Most diamond dealers are still using simple lenses. Better results may be had from the newer triplets. The triplets consist of three lenses balsamed together as one, and have six polished curved surfaces so arranged as to correct all color defects. Pure white light passes the lens untinted. With the triplets the field of view is clear from edge to edge. The triplets cost more than the old style, but the triplets are on a whole new level.
Stones should be judged when they are unset, when the color of the stone is being determined. At times the color from the mounting can throw off the appearance of the stone. Unfortunately there is no hard and fast standard of color to which on can refer doubtful cases. There is a pretty generally accepted series of names of grades which are supposed to describe definite degrees of color according their value.
Diamond Color Clarity Scale
Diamonds can be found in every color of the rainbow from clear, colorless (white) to black as coal. Some colors like blue, red, and green are extremely rare and very valuable. Brown is the most common color of diamond with about 80% of diamonds used for industrial purposes like drill bits and saw blades. For most diamond shoppers, their goal is to find a diamond as white (colorless) as their budget will allow.
Most diamonds suitable for gem use have trace elements of nitrogen that causes some level of yellow tint. The diamond industry uses a color grading system developed by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) that ranges from D (completely colorless) to Z (fancy yellow color). Each letter grade corresponds to a small range of color and the color grade of a diamond is determined by comparing it to a set of master stones whose color grade has been determined by a grading laboratory like the GIA.
The top three color-grades D, E and F are considered Colorless. Color-grades G, H, I, and J are known as the Near Colorless and color grades K, L and M are labeled Faint Yellow. It is important to have the color grade designated by one of the top diamond grading laboratories such as the GIA (Gemological Institute of America) or AGS (American Gem Society). Color grades on other documentation can be exaggerated and not accurate relative to industry standards.
The bigger the diamond, the more obvious its color will be, just as a carafe of wine shows more color than a glassful. Some shapes of diamonds show more color than others do. Shapes like the princess cut are relatively bottom heavy and have more diamond material to look through. Individuals see shades of yellow differently and some shoppers prefer the warm look of the Near Colorless range rather than the cold, whiteness of the Colorless grades.
Another factor that influences diamond color is fluorescence. About a fourth of diamonds have a characteristic that when exposed to ultraviolet light, they glow a color, usually blue. The fluorescence is no longer visible once the light source is removed. The intensity of the fluorescence can vary from Faint, which is barely visible to Very Strong, which is easily visible in a brightly lighted room. A little blue fluorescence can sometimes make Near Colorless diamonds appear even whiter than their true color. Some very strong fluorescent diamonds appear milky or oily in appearance and thus not as clear. The presence of fluorescence in a diamond generally reduces its value with higher levels of fluorescence reducing the value the greatest.
There are some processes, like High Pressure/High Temperature (HPHT) or irradiation, which can alter the color of a diamond. With certain types of brown diamonds, the HPHT process can produce Colorless or Near Colorless color. With HPHT, other types of brown diamonds can be converted to fancy colors like yellowish-green, greenish-yellow, and even shades of pink or blue. Irradiation can result in a variety of fancy colors, even though they are often visibly different shades than natural colored diamonds.
Yellow is the most common and affordable of the colored gem diamonds. There are four color-grades of yellow diamonds with enough saturation to be rated Fancy Yellow; Fancy Light Yellow, Fancy Yellow, Fancy Intense Yellow and Fancy Vivid Yellow. Each deeper shade brings a higher price.
What do these color grades, fluorescence, and color treatments mean to the diamond shopper? There are many color grades between the top D color and J, which is the bottom of the Near Colorless range, with the price of a D being about double that of J color. Most of the difference in price is at the lower color grades where there is also the most visible difference to the eye. The price increase from a J to I can be about 20% while from an E to D is closer to 2%. Diamond shoppers need to examine diamonds with their own eyes so they can determine what color they will be happy with relative to the price.
Most shoppers find that for well cut round diamonds, I color provides a nice, white color and a good value. Fancy shaped diamonds tend not to be as brightly faceted as the round brilliant cut so H color is an excellent choice for value and beauty. However, some shoppers will prefer and can afford higher colors and other shoppers will choose lower colors based on what they find appealing to their eye and their budget.
Avoid diamonds with high levels of fluorescence or any kind of color enhancement unless you specifically want that, have been properly advised, and are paying the lower corresponding price. Beware of jewelry stores who stock larger number of diamonds with fluorescence or will not show you the GIA grading report before you purchase. A merchant who is hiding these factors from you is certainly not someone you want to trust with your important diamond purchase.
Both Mitch Endick & Denny Reinke are contributors for EditorialToday. The above articles have been edited for relevancy and timeliness. All write-ups, reviews, tips and guides published by EditorialToday.com and its partners or affiliates are for informational purposes only. They should not be used for any legal or any other type of advice. We do not endorse any author, contributor, writer or article posted by our team.
Mitch Endick has sinced written about articles on various topics from Home, Puppies Dogs and Education. Mitch Endick is a short article writer for the popularjewelry site:
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