Metering for ambient light setting and metering for flash pulse occurs at two different times of operations. Ambient light metering happens the camera's shutter is opened. For the Canon EOS cameras, this happens when you press the shutter button down halfway. Flash Pulse metering, on the other hand, is done only when you depress the shutter button fully. There are two main ways which one can meter for flash pulse. The first method is to measure the flash light as it is being emitted by the flash unit. The second method is by doing what we call a pre-flash test. What this means is that you send a low powered test pulse of established brightness before opening the shutter.
Canon uses both these two methods for the metering of the flash pulse. The first way is called the "Through The Lens" (TTL) system. It was first used by Canon in their T90 model during it debut in the 1980s. Later the TTL system became a standard facet of the EOS range of Cameras. In fact the T90 became the only Non EOS camera to ever use the TTL flash metering system.
The TTL system works by calculating the amount of light which is reflected off the subject into the camera after the flash light is emitted by the flash unit. It actually measures the light which is reflected of the film in real time and this done by using an OTF (Off The Film) sensor. When enough light has entered the OTF sensor, the flash will be deactivated. Due to the fact that the Canon EOS Digital cameras do not use films, the Digital range of Canon cameras does not support the TTL system.
The TTL metering system works in the following manner and order:
1. When the shutter button is depressed halfway the ambient light metering operation runs its course. The shutter speed and aperture is set by the camera or the user depending on what mode is used. For example; P mode, AV mode or M Mode.
2. Only when the shutter button is depressed all the way, the internal mirror is turn up and exposes the film. Power is then sent to the flash unit which will emit a flash light to illuminate the scene. The length of the flash pulse is determined by the OTF sensor in the camera which is metered for normal operational conditions. If the picture is taken under bright lighting conditions, the auto fill reduction will take effect and reduce the illumination of the Flash.
3. When the foreground is sufficiently illuminated, the power supply to the flash unit is terminated which in turn extinguishes the flash light. The shutter is opened during the entire duration of its speed run. After that, the shutter then closes and the mirror flips back to it original position. For those cameras which have a warning light to confirm the success of the flash exposure operation, the warning light will then glow to indicate the success of the flash metering operation.
You have to note that the OTF sensor, reflect the amount of light off the film. Therefore it follows that the composition of the film will also affect the amount of light which will be reflected. Normally this will not be an issue as all cameras are adjusted to work with normal films. This is only an issue if you use specially coated films which have a different level of tolerances to light exposure.
Flash For Canon Camera
If you wish to use a generic non-dedicated flash unit on the Canon EOS camera, you will first need to check the triggering voltage of the flash unit. The Canon Speedlite flash units triggering circuits is not more than 6 volts. Furthermore, the Canon EOS 1, A2/A2E, 10s, 630; Elan, RT and Rebel also operate with 6 volts as the maximum voltage going through their triggering circuits. As such, you must make sure the generic flash unit also uses no more than 6 volts for their trigger.
Those triggers which use more than 6 volts can damage the electrical circuitry of the camera. The connecting wires, the X-Sync contact point and the shutters are most prone to damages. The damage might not be obvious but will happen gradually over time. Beside from the likelihood of circuitry damages, electro magnetic noises generated by the high voltages will cause interference with the Camera operation. The metering system, aperture settings and shutter speed are just some of the possible effects of electro-magnetic noise on the circuit of the camera. Which function will be affected will depend ultimately on the circuits which is interfered with by the electromagnetic noise.
Testing the voltages of the flash triggering circuit is a simple task. Just use a voltmeter which is available at any Radio Shack stores. Connect the positive lead to the positive point of Sync Cord. The Negative lead should be connected to the ground of the Sync cord. With shoe mounted flash, just connect the positive lead to the center point of the mount. The negative lead has to be connected to the grounding point of the camera located at the side of the lock nut. Voltmeters have different setting which you can use. If you are unaware of the voltage of the Flash unit, just use the highest setting on the voltmeter than work your way downwards.
To fire a Studio flash safely without a sync cord, use a Speedlite 420EZ or 430EZ with 1/32 power under manual flash mode. Ensure that the flash's optical slave trigger is activated before firing. You are actually using the bounce feature of the Speedlite 420EZ or 430EZ to direct the light to optical slave trigger. Alternatively, you can use radio slave triggers to fire the studio flash. Companies like Lindahl and Quantum Instruments sell radio transmitters that connect to the PC contact of the camera and a receiver to connect to studio flash power pack.
If the Studio Flash is not firing through the EOS Camera, you should check the following listed below:
1. Ensure that the PC socket adapter does not come with metal shoes. Metal shoes will cause a "short" in the triggering circuit. To avoid this problem, use a Canon PC socket adapter made from plastic.
2. The flash units polarities might be reversed. This can occur because of a diode which is connected to the camera X-Sync point to protect the Camera internal flash unit. To get by this problem, reverse the polarities of the Sync cord.
3. If after having tired these two suggested solution and the Flash still wont fire, then just adopt the method described above to fire the Flash without the use of the Sync cord.
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