Rather than follow the route taken by most boats around Ha Long Bay, the Ginger sets off in a different direction. Leaving the other boats behind we weave through towering islands. Staring at the deserted islands my mind takes flight like a sea bird, soaring high above my normal concerns.



After crossing Bai Tu Long we anchor in a calm cove. Dusk yellows the sky and purple lines the horizon. The only sounds are those of the wind and splashing fish. Everyone on board, including crewmembers and tourists, prepares to board kayaks.

There are no words to describe the feeling of dipping a paddle into still, green water. Leaving the yacht the kayaks resemble birds flying from their nest. We spread out across the deserted bay. We dodge around towering islets and passing through a sea cave full of bats, surprised to find ourselves in a beautiful lagoon. Surrounded by mountains, the lagoon is perfectly still.

Sometimes, local fishermen are so absorbed with their nets that they fail to notice the rising tide. With the exit under water they must wait in the lagoon overnight. I find the idea adventurous and romantic.

Kayaking in the lat afternoon is just one of the trips delights. Measuring 38 meters in length, the Ginger provides a luxurious means of touring this magnificent bay. The staff is helpful and professional. Each cabin features a window overlooking the sea. I lie in my cool, wood-paneled cabin and watch the waves. Later, while listening to the soft sounds of lapping of waves and wind, I eat a mail as memorable as one offered in a fine, big city restaurant. Candles flicker. The walls are made of a sweet-smelling wood, the floors of ironwood.

After dinner the tables are chairs are pushed back to transform the dining room into a dance floor. Couples waltz across the wooden floor and way to the boats gentle rhythm. At dawn, when light peeps over the horizon, the upper deck becomes an exercise area, where guests receive training in Thai Cuc Quyen (a type of traditional Chinese shadow boxing). At night, guests lounge in rattan chairs on the foredeck to watch the stars and moon. The sight of the sails being hoisted at dawn is extraordinarily solemn. I feel like a participant in an ancient rite to greet the sun.

The yacht, like Ha Long Bay and Bai Tu Long Bay, is full of surprises, as unique as the plant it is named after - a type of ginger found only in Ha Long Bay. Room keys that are musical instruments, a cocktail of tea and ginger, waltzing in candlelight, the warm smiles of the staff ... there was so much to surprise and delight me. The journey was like a dream.