Because air penetrates only the first few inches of the pile, it needs help to reach the composting pile's center. Therefore if you suddenly get that nasty rotten egg smell around the compost, it means that anaerobic bacteria are moving in, and it's time to give your composting pile more air.
In hot composting, plenty of air is essential to develop the high temperatures needed to kill harmful bacteria and speed the process of decomposition. Here are a few ways you can add air to your compost pile:
1. Turning:
The most effective method of introducing air is to turn the pile with a garden fork. Lift the material from the top and sides, toss it into the more active center of the new pile; then add the partially decomposed center to the outside. In other words, take the composting material from the outside and the top of your pile and exchange it with the composting material in the middle of your pile.
2. Stirring:
If you would rather not do the work of turning a pile, try stirring it with a stick instead (much harder to achieve desired results). However, this method won't distribute the air as evenly, so the composting process will be somewhat slower.
3. Aerator Tools:
At a garden center you can buy an aerator - a rod which has flaps on the one end which is pointed and a handle on the other. Holding the tool by the handle, you jab the pointed end into the compost pile as far as you can and then pull the tool back outwards or upwards. As you pull it back out of the pile, the flaps unfold to pull up and loosen the materials. Using an aerator tool is easier than turning, and this procedure produces more air than stirring .
4. Air Stack:
Another approach is to build your compost pile around a perforated pipe, a bundle of long twigs, or a tube of wire mesh (chicken wire works well) standing on end. In other words, stand one of the three in the middle of your empty compost bin, then add the compost material around the item. This allows the air to get to the center of your pile between turnings. With air stacks, you can skip the turning, but the pile won't heat up as efficiently.
5. Elevated Compost:
Most compost piles rest on bare ground, but instead you can build it on a raised platform of loosely spaced boards and allow air to be drawn up from the bottom. If you elevate your compost, however, be sure to sprinkle garden soil throughout the compost to introduce those essential soil bacteria.
In other articles I explain the other two components necessary for proper composting: how to keep just the right amount of moistness for best results and what can AND cannot be added as food to the compost pile.
How To Compost Pile
Compost piles must hold a minimum of organic material before they will maintain rapid decomposition. So the pile should be at least 3-feet-by-3-feet and 4-feet tall. Naturally piles can be larger. Moving leaves to the pile, then chopping them up with a lawn mower or leaf shredder before they go on the pile aids composting considerably, as small particles decompose faster than large ones.
There are other things we can do to accelerate composting and make it more efficient. As slightly wet leaves decompose quicker than dry ones and rain may not penetrate the pile center, I'd dampen dry leaves before adding them. Ground limestone may also be scattered in if we add a bunch of oak leaves and we're concerned about the acidity they may generate in our pile. Scatter about a pound of lime for every five leaf layers. But do not use lime if your compost will be given to acid loving plants such as mountain laurel, blueberries, azaleas, rhododendrons and potatoes. Adding lime to compost is an option rather than mandatory.
The addition of fertilizers speeds composting. Scatter 1 cup of fertilizer for every 15 square feet of pile.
Two pounds of dried cow manure can be the fertilizer. The addition of fertilizer is not a necessity.
Shady piles seem to compost faster than sunny ones, as they more promptly retain the moisture microbes need. Drenching a dry pile with water can be helpful in hot weather. Construct your pile lower in the center and higher on the sides, that way rain will go in more easily. Covering the pile with plastic sheets to reduce evaporation can help in conserving that most important water supply. Turning the pile every month with a garden fork or similar tool aerates our microbes and speeds composting.
Garden waste material and vegetable scraps make great compost additions, but don't place meat, bones, glass, plastic or metal in the pile. Keep material loaded with weed seeds, plant disease or insects out of the pile. Never put in material that's been treated with herbicide. Straw or hay can be added, but seeds in the hay may not decompose, sometimes causing weed troubles. Pine needles may be added, but because of their waxy coatings, they may take longer to break down. If you add twigs make sure they are small and broken, or they will take forever to break down. If you add newspaper they need to be shredded into tiny strips. Choose an inconspicuous site for the pile. While piles aren't ugly, they are seldom beautiful.
Compost has so many garden uses that I never get enough of this terrific stuff. I blend compost into every planting hole, whether I'm planting a dogwood tree, petunia beds, tomatoes or anything else.
Both Marcelle Snyder & James Ellison are contributors for EditorialToday. The above articles have been edited for relevancy and timeliness. All write-ups, reviews, tips and guides published by EditorialToday.com and its partners or affiliates are for informational purposes only. They should not be used for any legal or any other type of advice. We do not endorse any author, contributor, writer or article posted by our team.
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