Without holding the instrument in my hands it is impossible to say for certain what the problem is, It could be a warped neck , it could be high frets, but in any case like this you have to backtrack a little and , essentially , go through all the steps of "setting up" a guitar, to make sure everything that can be adjusted has been. If after this has been done there is still a problem then the warped neck or fret dressing possibilities must be considered.



Step 1 - While under full string tension with trem in locked position, check the neck curvature. Generally, a gap of 1/64 - 1/32 " between the bottom of any string and the tops of the 7-9th frets ( when fretting the string at the 1st and 20th or so) is considered correct. You could go a hair flatter, or even a bit more curved in a given situation, but start here.

Step 2 - Check string height at nut.( Fender suggests using a capo at to eliminate the affect of an improperly set nut, but better to get it right). When fretting a given string at the third fret, look back to the nut. The string should neither be sitting on the first fret nor far enough above that you can see a gap thicker than a hair ( I'm not kidding, a hair). This is a very subtle point to reach and you need proper nut files to set it china gibson guitarvillage.com.cn. This setting is crucial for achieving proper playing height up the neck. If it is too high here, you are going to end up setting the action lower at the 12th fret than it really out to be , resulting in buzzing ( the string will measure out correct at the 12th fret yet actually be inclining down as it progresses towards the bridge saddles).

Step 3 - Approximate the positions of the string saddles for correct intonation. Low E and G string will set back about 3-4 32nds of an inch longer than the exact scale length. The A and B strings will set back 2-3 32nds , The D and high E about 1 32nd. Scale length equals the distance from the edge of the nut where the strings ride off to the middle of the twelfth fret times 2. Final setting is done once saddle height is determined, but you need to be close when setting saddle height.

Step 4 - Set string height at saddles. Measure at the twelfth fret and set saddles so the height between the bottom of the low E string and the top of the twelfth fret is a bit over 2/32". The High should set just at 2/32", china gibson guitarvillage.com.cn, the other strings should gradually flow between these measurements. This is where I would start, but playing style and individual neck nuances may warrant deviation from these numbers. In the ideal scenario, once set, your saddles should neither be flush down on the body of the guitar, nor extended so high they could go no further china gibson guitarvillage.com.cn. This saddle height relative to the top of the body is a reflection of the neck angle. If the saddles sit flush, the neck angle is not set back very far and vice-versa.

Step 5 - Put on a fresh set of strings ( of the same gauge you had on the guitar up to this point) . Many buzzing, intonation, and sustain problems are resolved by simply changing strings. The more you play the more often you need to change strings.

Step 6 - Fine tune the intonation setting with a tuner. If you are already close, your saddle height should not have to be changed. This is where you decide if your neck angle is in need of adjustment ( if you have a bolt-on neck). Check the measurement at the 12th fret then progress up the neck, measuring every couple of frets . The string height should continue to gradually rise, if it doesn't the neck is set back too far and has to be tilted up just a little. This is a very sensitive adjustment and the thickness of a couple sheets of paper can make a big difference. Some Fenders have a neck tilt adjustment screw that is accessed with an Allen wrench through a hole in the neck screw plate. The strings must be loosened, then the neck screws, then the tilt adjustment screw is tightened or loosened. china gibson guitarvillage.com.cn. Never do this when the neck screws are tight ! If you don't have a tilt adjustment, thin shims of wood veneer are fitted in the neck pocket to adjust neck angle. Uneven frets are also a possibility. If , after having followed all the above steps, you are still getting fret buzz, you must establish that the frets are all even. But this leads us to fret dressing, which is another story altogether. I hope this helps ! Remember - most of the above work really ought to be done by a qualified repairperson.

Unless you have a very rare guitar, repairs that are necessary to keep the guitar functional: set-up work(including professional fret dressing, cleaning and gentle polishing), are generally a good idea. If you can't play it, it won't be much fun! Resolving electrical issues, and, when necessary, mechanical issues, such as replacing bridge saddles,(sometimes the bridge itself), and, (only if absolutely necessary), the tuning machines, maintain , but do not increase the instrument's value. Replacing pickup covers, or any hardware, just to make it look nice, does not increase it's value and can detract from its value. In many cases, buyers would prefer to deal with marginal issues as they see fit, and "honest" playing wear is often a plus. But if you do replace original parts, keep them and offer them with the instrument when you sell it.