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How To Plant Seeds

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If you save seed from your own plants you are able to choose carefully. Suppose you are saving seed of aster plants. What blossoms shall you decide upon? Now it is not the blossom only which you must consider, but the entire plant. Why? Because a weak, straggly plant may produce one fine blossom. Looking at that one blossom so really beautiful you think of the numberless equally lovely plants you are going to have from the seeds. But just as likely as not the seeds will produce plants like the parent plant.



So in seed selection the entire plant is to be considered. Is it sturdy, strong, well shaped and symmetrical; does it have a goodly number of fine blossoms? These are questions to ask in seed selection. If you should happen to have the opportunity to visit a seedsman's garden, you will see here and there a blossom with a string tied around it. These are blossoms chosen for seed. If you look at the whole plant with care you will be able to see the points which the gardener held in mind when he did his work of selection.

In seed selection size is another point to hold in mind. Now we know no way of telling anything about the plants from which this special collection of seeds came. So we must give our entire thought to the seeds themselves. It is quite evident that there is some choice; some are much larger than the others; some far plumper, too. By all means choose the largest and fullest seed. The reason is this: When you break open a bean and this is very evident, too, in the peanut you see what appears to be a little plant. So it is. Under just the right conditions for development this 'little chap' grows into the bean plant you know so well.

This little plant must depend for its early growth on the nourishment stored up in the two halves of the bean seed. For this purpose the food is stored. Beans are not full of food and goodness for you and me to eat, but for the little baby bean plant to feed upon. And so if we choose a large seed, we have chosen a greater amount of food for the plantlet. This little plantlet feeds upon this stored food until its roots are prepared to do their work. So if the seed is small and thin, the first food supply insufficient, there is a possibility of losing the little plant. You may care to know the name of this pantry of food. It is called a cotyledon if there is but one portion, cotyledons if two. Thus we are aided in the classification of plants. A few plants that bear cones like the pines have several cotyledons. But most plants have either one or two cotyledons.

From large seeds come the strongest plantlets. That is the reason why it is better and safer to choose the large seed. It is the same case exactly as that of weak children. There is often another trouble in seeds that we buy. The trouble is impurity. Seeds are sometimes mixed with other seeds so like them in appearance that it is impossible to detect the fraud. Pretty poor business, is it not? The seeds may be unclean. Bits of foreign matter in with large seed are very easy to discover. One can merely pick the seed over and make it clean. By clean is meant freedom from foreign matter. But if small seed are unclean, it is very difficult, well nigh impossible, to make them clean.

The third thing to look out for in seed is viability. We know from our testings that seeds which look to the eye to be all right may not develop at all. There are reasons. Seeds may have been picked before they were ripe or mature; they may have been frozen; and they may be too old. Seeds retain their viability or germ developing power, a given number of years and are then useless. There is a viability limit in years which differs for different seeds.

From the test of seeds we find out the germination percentage of seeds. Now if this percentage is low, don't waste time planting such seed unless it be small seed. Immediately you question that statement. Why does the size of the seed make a difference? This is the reason. When small seed is planted it is usually sown in drills. Most amateurs sprinkle the seed in very thickly. So a great quantity of seed is planted. And enough seed germinates and comes up from such close planting. So quantity makes up for quality.

But take the case of large seed, like corn for example. Corn is planted just so far apart and a few seeds in a place. With such a method of planting the matter of per cent, of germination is most important indeed.

Small seeds that germinate at fifty per cent. may be used but this is too low a per cent. for the large seed. Suppose we test beans. The percentage is seventy. If low-vitality seeds were planted, we could not be absolutely certain of the seventy per cent coming up. But if the seeds are lettuce go ahead with the planting.
How To Plant Seeds
Seeds are easy to lose of so mark rows where you'll be planting. The easiest way to accomplish this is with a piece of twine and two sticks. Just place a stick at one end of the row, tie the string to it and run it to the other end of the course. Tie off the string and your row is obvious. Do this before planting for all your rows and you will be able to plant easily. It also makes it much easier afterwards to see what's sprouting and keeps you from treading on the row.

Plant the entire row of seeds and cover with a slight layer of earth. After planting, gently water the seeds. A light sprinkler or hand held wand sprayer on a mist setting works well. Do not over water or you will wash the seeds right out of the soil. The effect could be no plants growing in your garden, or a pumpkin growing in the yard. Instead, water lightly, yet often. Keeping the seeds moist is the best way to get them going so water a couple of times a day for the first few days.

When establishing seedlings, begin in early morning or in the evening. Never plant in mid day with the sun beating down. Dig a hole sufficient for the plant root to fit in. Don't bury it too deep and don't leave the roots exposed to the air. Pack dirt firmly around the root area and add mulch around the base of the plant. Then, water good. The mulch will assist to keep the humidity around the plant higher and help it get acclimated. It also keeps the root area damp, keeping the plant from wilting.

If you're planting seeds, wait until the plants are a couple of inches tall and then add mulch around them as well. Straw works bang-up and is rather easy to obtain from a nearby farmer. Just distribute the straw around the plants in a two to four inch thick layer. Keep it from covering the plants themselves, just make them a little hole to poke out of. Water the straw heavy once layed out. The straw will act to keep moisture in and screen out weeds and it makes a nice surface to walk or kneel on likewise.

Many people are uncertain of how to properly water their garden plot and water too much, too little or at the incorrect time of the day. The best time to irrigate your garden is in the evening as the sun fades or really early in the morning. Never water with a sprinkler or spray the leaves directly. You could burn your plant leaves. Sounds strange, but it's true, water drops on plant leaves amplify sunshine like a magnifying glass. The results are brown, dead, burnt spots on leaves. Early morning sprinkler irrigating allows the water to evaporate and not cook the leaves. Nights are better for slow, drip watering as it permits the plant to thoroughly absorb the moisture.

Add compost to your garden to help fertilize your plants as they grow. Also think about using other organic fertilizers such as cow or horse manure. They add a boost of nitrogen to your soil and encourage energetic plant growth and high payoffs at harvest time.

Throughout your season, check your plants for dead foliage and other troubles. Keep the weed population down by pulling them and adding them to the compost. Keep your plants from drying out by contributing mulch as required. Water on a steady, logical schedule and keep your plants fertilized. Your garden plot will show you just how happy it is by growing strong and producing a good harvest at the end of the growing season.
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•How To Plant Seeds, by Jasper Sayer
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