Like nearly everything else, it is possible to pay someone else to trim your landscape plants. However, it is much more economical to learn how to properly prune your trees and shrubs yourself. Additionally, the exercise gives some people great enjoyment, as it is an excuse to be outside and enjoy fine weather and fresh air. There are different techniques to pruning, and different times of the year when such pruning is appropriate. By keeping a careful watch on your yard and paying attention to when your trees bloom, you can make sure to keep your landscape in the best shape through careful pruning.
Deciduous trees and bushy plants. These woody trees and plants are best pruned in early spring while they are still dormant. Some plants, however, go through a process of ?bleeding,? when sap runs out of the cuts. While this does not actually harm the plant or tree, it can cause homeowners distress and worry. Therefore, when pruning plants that tend to bleed (such as maple, box elder, black walnut, elm, birch, and honeylocust), it is also acceptable to wait until they are fully leafed out.
Woody bushes like lilac, spirea, mock orange, viburnum, and forsythia should be pruned immediately after blooming. These plants have flowering buds that are produced every previous growing season. And, by pruning such plants directly after they bloom, you will be able to decorate your house with the sweet smelling blossoms on the pruned branches. These small branches, and the thin, small branches of a tree, may be cut with ease all the way through with only a single cut.
When removing a large branch on a tree, however, you will need to make three cuts. This will help you avoid tearing the bark. The first cut is placed on the under side of the branch, and should be located about 12 inches from where the branch meets the trunk. This cut is not very deep ? only one-fourth to one-third of the way through the branch. Next, a cut should be made on the topside of the branch, and should be about two inches farther from the trunk than the first cut. Saw completely through the branch on the second cut. The last cut on the branch should be just beyond the branch collar. Leaving a stub encourages disease, and cutting the main trunk produces a wound that heals slower.
Evergreens. Evergreens have a slightly different consideration that the deciduous woody plants. They can be pruned in the early spring, but you should ensure that the new growth has hardened. Evergreens can be pruned practically any time between mid-April and mid-August. It is important to have them trimmed before mid-August because if you wait any longer, they may not recover from their wounds in time to withstand the winter.
Pruning of evergreens should be based upon the presence of their branch foliage. Do not cut beyond the green foliage portion. If you continue to prune, lightly, evergreens such as arborvitaes, yews, and junipers, each summer, they will eventually be a thicker and fuller plant. Failure to prune will result in scraggly-looking trees. Larger junipers and other plants may need a size reduction. In order to do this, follow the branches to be cut until you find new small growth that parallels the branch. Make your cut, diagonally, just beyond the reach of this smaller, parallel branch.
In some evergreens, you will find that the top has been lost due to injury. In such cases, you need to ?build? a new top. This can be done by selecting the largest of the whorls nearest the top and by gently bending it up. Tie the branch to an attached brace, using a non-girdling material such as cloth. Then cut back the other lateral branches so that they cannot compete with the branch chosen as the new top. As with deciduous trees, it is important to cut back to a side branch or bud, and to leave no stubs.
No matter what type of tree you are pruning, the practices of topping, hat-racking, and heading are not recommended. These methods of trimming are not true pruning techniques, and they result in small shoots, called suckers, to form near the cut surface. These suckers are weak and rarely attractive, and they can distort the shape of the tree. And once improperly pruned, a tree may never return to its characteristic form.
How To Prune Trees
If you have just entered the tree growing world, you have no doubt heard the term "pruning" tossed around by the more veteran growers. Well, I have something to admit. For several years, I did not even know what pruning was. I heard the term a lot, but I never felt comfortable asking someone what exactly it was. Even though it would have benefited my gardening and tree growing, I was too prideful to ask. I've found that pride is the reason for the failure of many great endeavors; if I had just asked someone what pruning was, I wouldn't have undergone a few of the disasters that occurred during my first years of gardening.
Pruning is the removal of dead or unneeded branches to encourage the growth of flowers. Usually a tree will end up devoting energy to branches that don't need it, while neglecting branches which are bearing more fruit. If you remove the branches that are taking all the nutrients, you will begin to see a flourish in the other ones. Pruning also keeps the tree in shape by keeping the branches even. This prevents it from becoming weighed down on one side. Having too many branches on one side could cause the tree to become permanently crooked.
Many gardeners don't even think about pruning their trees until they start to bear fruit. This is a big mistake, and you should never neglect to care for a tree just because it hasn't yet begun to produce. During the entire process of growth, you should prune the tree in a way that it is even and uniform. Then, when it does start to produce fruit, the results will be significantly greater. It is very easy to tell the difference between a tree that has been pruned regularly during its growth, and one that has been neglected. Generally the shape of the tree is much more natural looking if it has been pruned. The first thing to look for when you start pruning is any branches which are dead or diseased. These are quite easy to recognize. Usually they don't bear any fruit, and might be misshapen or discolored. Don't hesitate at all in chopping these guys off, as they are nothing but detrimental to the health of your tree. Sometimes a branch can be dead or diseased without making it too obvious. If this is the case, simply wait until the tree is flowering and it will become obvious by not growing anything.
The second type of branch to look for is the branch that is too close in range to all the other ones. If it grows at such a length and angle that the end is right next to all the other branches, they might end up crowding each other out. Take off the smaller of the two branches to allow the larger one to have the breathing room that it needs. This same rule applies to the weight balance of your tree. Sometimes, for reasons we will never understand, a tree will grow several branches on one side and weigh itself into being lopsided.
So hopefully I have provided you with a basic knowledge of pruning. There are more situations and types of branches that require pruning, but what I've outlined is the very basic parts. These can alter depending on how old your tree is. For example, for the first 3 years of a tree's growth it requires pruning that follows more "formative" guidelines. After the tree is well established, you will need to use "regulatory" pruning to keep it where you would like it to be. There are entire books written on how to prune trees depending on how old they are. There are far too many techniques for me to go over, so if you want to use these advanced techniques then you should go to your local library and check out a book.
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