Refinishing hardwood floors can be a challenging job for the do-it-yourselfer, but with some preparation and research, it can be done without the help of a professional.
Many older homes have gone through fads, and one that became a norm was wall to wall carpeting. If wood floors hide under a carpet, it will have to be removed. After all furniture has been removed, pull up carpeting and its tack strip, making sure to remove nails and staples that will hinder sanding performance later.
Sanding floors during the refinishing process creates a lot of sawdust. Prep the area by taping off doors and cabinets, and opening windows. Covering areas with damp sheets helps trap the sawdust.
After the area around the floor is completely prepped, use a drum sander to sand the floor. They can be rented at most home improvement stores. The purpose of the sanding is to cut the floor and remove the old finish. Start with a coarse grit sandpaper, such as a 20 or 36 grit paper, and move up to 60 and 100 grit. The lighter grit sandpaper is used to remove the scratch marks made by the heavier grit paper.
A drum sander can be daunting on its first use. They are loud and powerful, so wear ear plugs, eye protection, and a dust mask. A common first-timers mistake is gouging the floor, which is a hard problem to fix, and easier to prevent. Start by tilting the sander back before turning it on, and slowly lowering it to the floor.
Find a good test area that may be covered by a rug or furniture, and move the machine back and forth, without keeping it in one spot, as doing so can damage the floor in a few seconds. Move the sander in the same direction as the grain of the wood floor. When the machine becomes difficult to maneuver, it's time to move to a lighter grit paper. Edges of the floor can be hard to sand with the large drum sander, so either renting an edge sander, or doing these areas by hand, is recommended.
After the old finish has been removed, and the floors smoothed with the sander, the room must be vacuumed. It's advisable to vacuum and dust the floors, walls, light switches, and every area that can be reached. Let the dust settle, and vacuum again to insure no dust will end up in the new finish. Running a tack cloth (also available at home improvement stores) along the floor after it's been vacuumed is also advisable.
It's now time to apply a stain to the wood, unless the natural color of the wood is preferred. If possible, test the stain on your floor, as color charts may be helpful, but not always accurate depending on the wood of your floor, and how it takes the stain. Apply the stain in a circular motion with cloth rags. Spread the stain as evenly as possible to keep the color consistent.
The final step to refinishing a floor is applying the finish. There are oil and water based finishes. Though oil finishes are less expensive, the water based dry quicker, finish clear, and do not have the solvent odor that oil based finishes contain. Make sure to not shake the finish, as it will create bubbles that will end up on the floor. Slowly stir it, and follow the manufacturer's instructions. Make sure to plan the final application finishing in a doorway, and after a few coats, the floor refinishing is complete.
How To Refinish Hardwood Floors
In the modern day, that would be a sin, but it happened a lot back when wall-to-wall carpet was the craze. We often find older homes with old worn out carpet that covers seemingly faded and weathered hardwood flooring. Don't be deceived, the resurfacing process of hardwood floors and its potential beauty will have you patting yourself on the back for years.
Restoring hardwood isn't easy, but it is definitely worth the trouble. If your floor has been covered with carpet, then be sure to remove all the carpet and tack strips. Then you will need to see if there are any nail holes that need to be filled.
If you are resurfacing your hardwood floors because they are old looking, then you will start out with a heavy duty sander called a drum sander. You will be able to rent this sander at any rental stores or building centers because they are very popular and frequently used. To strip off the finish you will need 24 grit sand paper on the drum sander. A drum sander goes in a straight line so you will need to head toward a wall and go in a straight direction until you come to the wall, then you will need to turn around and head for the opposite wall. Do this until the entire floor is done.
You don't need to be worried about sanding completely through your floor because most hardwood floors, especially the older floors are about 3/4 ?thick. You should be able to sand your hardwood floor over a dozen times before it wears through.
You will need to do a second sanding to smooth the rough gouges made by the finish-stripping sand paper. This will also remove any of the remaining patches of finish left behind. You can accomplish this with 36 grit sand paper. Go over the floor the same way you did with the heavier sand paper.
You won't be able to get very close to the walls with the drum sander so you will need a smaller sander to sand next to the walls and corners. An orbital hand sander will work really well for this. You will use the same grit of sand paper for the hand sander as you will use for the drum sander at each phase of the sanding process.
The third step of the sanding process will be the smoothing phase where the sand paper will sand out all the rough cuts from the heavier sand paper. You will use 60 grit sand paper for this. This grit of paper won't strip off any remaining finish materials so you will have to make sure that you get it all with the second sanding.
The fourth sanding phase will be where the light grit sand paper brings out the wood grains even without the final finishes. You will use 80 grit sand paper for this step. You will notice how the old hardwood sheds its old appearance for a new vibrant, modern display.
The final sanding phase is very important, yet it is a step often omitted by flooring contractors. You will use 150 grit sand paper with a small hand sander. Be sure to sand with the grain. This will make a huge difference in the deep luster shine and the appearance of the wood grains.
After you have completed the sanding phases, you will then need to sweep the floor clean of all dust and wood particles. This won't be quite enough though, because you want the wood grains to be completely exposed and free of dust so they soak up the finish better and deeper. If you have an air compressor you can spray the floor with air to get the dust free. If however you don't have an air compressor, then you can use a vacuum on the lowest surface setting to suck the dust out. Be sure to make slow thorough passes with the vacuum.
Next, you will start the first application of the floor finish. There are many finishes to choose from, but most flooring specialists? choose a water-based Urethane because of its characteristics. It dries quickly and the odors won't kill you. The first coat will go on in a copious fashion. You can use a brush or a floor brush on a pole. This will help you get an even coat.
Let the first coat dry for at least 12 hours and then apply the second coat. The third coat should make the final finish appear as a deep finish that makes the wood grains stand out almost as if in 3-D.
Once the floor has dried, you will notice that it is very hard and durable. The shine and the wood grains are new looking. The floor doesn't even look anything like the old floor. That is part of the restoration process. Enjoy it. Spread out on the floor and give it a hug. That's how I feel after so much work, yet so much reward.
Both Ki Gray & Larry Angell are contributors for EditorialToday. The above articles have been edited for relevancy and timeliness. All write-ups, reviews, tips and guides published by EditorialToday.com and its partners or affiliates are for informational purposes only. They should not be used for any legal or any other type of advice. We do not endorse any author, contributor, writer or article posted by our team.
Ki Gray has sinced written about articles on various topics from Debts Loans, Real Estate and Food And Drink. Escapeso is a small realty company in Austin. Their website has a search of the. Ki Gray's top article generates over 110000 views. to your Favourites.
Larry Angell has sinced written about articles on various topics from Home Management, Buying and Selling Home and Home Management. Larry Angell is the author of Sweat Equity, building a house at half cost. He runs an instructional site that teaches people how to build houses that are strong financial tools and not financial burdens.. Larry Angell's top article generates over 8100 views. to your Favourites.
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