Too small and they won't have enough power to carry you into the shore. It will be harder to stay upright on the board if your speed is too low. This paradox is easily understood. Think of riding a bicycle. It's easy to remain upright when pedaling, very hard when you are traveling too slowly.
A wave that is too large for your skill level and, at some point, that's true of everyone will push you off the board. Waves roughly 3-4 feet high (1-1.5 m) are about right for most beginners. Those who have a little more natural good balance can go a little higher, sooner.
Now that you've chosen the wave, lie on the board facing shore and start paddling, hard. Use a crawl stroke, left arm, right arm, left arm again. Never both at once. Build up as much momentum as possible, looking over your shoulder from time to time to judge the wave speed and direction.
You want to catch the wave when the swell just starts to lift you up. At the critical moment, execute the pop-up. A pop-up is the movement from the lying to the crouching position. As you start to stand, the board will move down into the water slightly. Try to keep the nose slightly higher than the tail in order to avoid it going down and under the water, and you with it.
As you hit your feet, your force will press the board down. Keep more weight on the rear than the front and allow the buoyancy of the board to lift you back up to the surface. Stay balanced near the midpoint of the board and focus your eyes ahead, not down. If you watch your feet, you'll fall.
Hey, you're surfing! Now get ready to ride.
Keep your eyes focused in the direction you want to go and swivel your hips gradually to cause your feet and weight to follow. That pushes your rail (the outer edge of the surfboard) down at the correct angle.
Lean your weight slightly in the direction you want to travel. Dipping the surfboard at a shallow angle will generate a reaction force that moves you in the direction you want to go. Take care not to make it steep or you'll tend to rotate. If you turn at too great an angle, you're much more likely to fall off. Not good.
Aim for riding down the face of the wave. For the relatively short waves that are right for a beginner this is pretty much like riding near the crest. Save the curl riding for later, when you have more experience. It will give you something to aim for.
Last but not least, always wear sun protection swimwear and a sun hat when going out surfing.
How To Ride A Wave Board
Safety is an important part of any extreme sport. Riding safe and riding smart go hand in hand. You enjoy the wave board, but if you fall and crack your head open because you think a helmet looks goofy, you can no longer enjoy riding for quite some time. Safely riding the wave board is no different then enjoying any other extreme sport in a safe and fun way, it really comes down to common sense. Learn how to ride the board comfortably before attempting any crazy tricks or ramps, wear the necessary safety equipment, especially a helmet, and take it slow, do not rush and do try something that is out of your skill level. If you are a beginner on the wave board the best way to learn is to have a friend who can help you balance while you get the feel of the board. This way if you fall your buddy will be there to stop you from hitting the pavement. Also starting on a very slight decline, this helps keep the wave board moving and allows you to balance much better. Once you get the hang of it you can start attempting some tricks. This is when wearing a helmet and other protective pads become the most important. Helmets and pads are just as important when learning to ride, but attempting new tricks brings more risk of falling. Let us face it; falling is a huge part of extreme sports. The risk of biting the dust, getting hurt, getting back up and trying the trick again over and over is what it is all about. Safety is not about not getting hurt, it is about minimizing the injury so you can jump back up on your wave board and go for it again. If you hit the pavement with your head and you have a helmet on 9.9 times out of 10 you are jumping back up on your wave board with a little headache and trying the trick again. In that same scenario if you do not have a helmet on 9.9 times out of 10 you are headed to the hospital or at the very least your done riding the wave board for quite some time.
When you are riding the wave board, do not try to ride way out of your skill level. You always want to be stretching your abilities and trying new tricks, but that is not what I am talking about. The key is to take your tricks step by step. If you have never dropped in on a ramp before, it is not the best idea to drop in from ten feet your first time. Start on a two or a three foot ramp, gain some confidence and work your way up. Its best not to try and bust out a kick flip before you can ollie. The chances of breaking your ankle increase without the skill and balance you gain from learning the ollie first. So ride safe by having a friend help you learn, wear the protective gear, and learn your tricks one step at a time. All in all riding is about having fun, safety is about minimizing injury so you can ride longer and ride stronger. Most importantly have fun on your wave board, and be safe while doing it.
Both J Edmond Souaid & Derek Cla are contributors for EditorialToday. The above articles have been edited for relevancy and timeliness. All write-ups, reviews, tips and guides published by EditorialToday.com and its partners or affiliates are for informational purposes only. They should not be used for any legal or any other type of advice. We do not endorse any author, contributor, writer or article posted by our team.
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