To get started, remove the old sink. (Note: Don't forget to shut off the water)If you have an old wall hung sink, disconnect the trap and the supply lines. Cut away the caulk sealing the sink to the wall. With some models, you simply can lift them up and away. Others are connected to mounting brackets with bolts, which may be rusted. Use penetrating oil or cut through them with a hacksaw.
Next you need to install the plumbing in the cabinet. Install new stop valves and a drain line, making sure they will be covered by the vanity cabinet and won't interfere with the sink.
If the cabinet has a back, measure and cut holes for the pipes. Slide the cabinet into position and level it in both directions, using shims if necessary. Anchor it to the wall with screws into the wall stud.
Install the faucet, flexible supply lines, and drain assembly on the sink. Set the sink on top of the cabinet. Make sure it is centered with the backsplash tight against the wall. Attach the sink to the vanity. Connect the drain trap and the supply lines. Run a bead of caulk where the backsplash meets the wall.
Lastly you need to connect the pop-up assembly. Insert the ball rod into the opening and secure it with the nut. Slip the rod through the clevis strap and secure it with the string clip. Lower the pop-up rod down through the whole in the faucet spout. Slide on the clevis strap and tighten slightly. Adjust the clevis so the stopper seals when the rod is pulled up. Tighten the screw and you're done. An easy upgrade that just added value to your bathroom.
Installing A Door Frame
Toilets can be purchased at any home improvement store or plumbing supply center. Typically a gravity flush toilet costs between $150 and $300, however the price can double or triple for more elaborate units, such as pressure flush systems. Today's toilets are mandated to use no more than 1.6 gallons per flush, where as older units used as much as 5 gallons. The initial 1.6 gallon toilets were notorious for frequently clogging, however over the past several years suppliers have improved the performance of these low water-use systems.
Setting the Toilet
A toilet usually consists of two main parts: a bowl and a tank. It is best to first install the bowl. Prior to seating the bowl, check if the closet flange has been temporarily plugged with insulation or a rag to prevent sewer gases from escaping. Remove this. Next set the bowl on top of the closet flange to determine if it sits level. If it does not, prepare some shims to use later.
Next remove the bowl, and insert the closet bolts (approximately 2” long bolts) into the slots on the closet flange.
Then turn the bowl over and install a wax ring gasket over the outlet of the bowl. This outlet is also know as the “horn”.
Place the bowl onto the closet flange. Make sure the bowl is well seated by rocking the bowl down. Once the bowl has been seated, place a level on it and use the shims as necessary. Next, using nuts and washers tighten up the bolts. Note: be careful not to over-tighten these bolts as it could crack the bowl.
Next attach the tank to the bowl using the tank bolts, nuts and washers. Again, do not over tighten.
Installing the Float Supply Unit
Install the float supply unit into the tank and hook up the water line to the tank inlet. Again, do not over tighten and make sure to use the washers supplied.
Next, turn the supply line on and adjust the float as necessary. Finally, caulk around the base of the unit and you are done.
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