thousands of dollars over the years. Especially if you are carrying out renovations
to improve the value of your property.
One of the ways a home handyperson can greatly improve the look and value of their
home is to install ceramic tile. This versatile product can take the look and feel
of your home from mediocre to stunning and it can all be done by the average person
who is confident enough tp tackle a job that many consider too difficult.
These thoughts do have merit but if you couple the average handyperson with expert
help then you have the potential for success. The hardest part is finding and
procuring the assistance of experts. The expert by nature is always in high demand
so the needy home owner has to find access to the knowledge the experts have.
Hopefully without paying a premium for those years of knowledge.
Researching the area of tile installation finds that there is more to it than meets
the eye. How does the tile meeting the wall finish off? Is their a right and wrong
mixture of adhesive? Does it really matter if there is a membrane placed beneath the
tile in certain areas? There are many questions that arise usually after a project
has started, and then it is usually too late to get the right advice.
It can also be quite an excercise gathering all the information you need to make
sure your project ends up being something to be proud of instead of being a constant
reminder that the experts know what they are doing.
* Preparation is Key
Take our advice and look for instructional information and guidance before you start
a tile job around your home, especially if it includes a wet area like the shower or
bathroom. These areas in particular have special skill requirements that usually
take years of experience to conquer. For instance, how do you drill ceramic tile?
How do you cut ceramic tile with a pair of specialist pliers? Is it better to hire
the correct tools and what tools do you need? The list goes on and on.
Ceramic tile can be a tricky installation but with the right guidance and support
you can save a packet of dollars by not getting the so called experts in and
charging you the experts fee. In reality this kind of job uses a ceramic product
that when measured by the dollars per square yard is really screaming for you to not
make mistakes. It has been our experience that repairing a botched installation is
much more expensive than doing it right the first time with the help of quality
researched instructions that have been authored by an expert in the field.
Installing Ceramic Tile Backsplash
Ceramic Tile brings a texture, richness and color to a room that Linoleum has yet to truly mimic. Tile floors can be installed in any room, however they are most frequently seen in Bathrooms and Kitchens. I particularly like them in entryways, where they serve as a transition point from the outside to large carpeted or hardwood floored rooms. They make for easy clean up and are impervious to water damage.
Tile Types
Ceramic tiles come in two basic types. Glazed and Porcelain. Glazed holds up the best for heavy traffic areas and porcelain works well in bathrooms. Porcelain is typically more expensive, so consider your budget and the size of the area you want to tile. Tiles also come in many shapes and sizes. For flooring, however, I would suggest using larger tiles up to 12” x 12”.
Underlayment
For proper installation the base foundation or the underlayment is critical. Typically it consists of ¾” to 1 ¼” of plywood. Tiling over Linoleum or existing tile is also feasible, as long as it is solid. I also recommend when Tiling over Linoleum that you first apply ring nails or screws 6” on center over the entire area. Tiles can also be installed directly over Concrete. Make sure in all cases that the floor is level and free of dust and debris prior to installation. There are leveling compounds that you can apply before applying tile if necessary.
Preparing the Site
Before actually installing the tile, it is best to lay it out in the room to see how it will look. Pay close attention to how it runs out toward the walls, in the corners and next to cabinets, tubs and toilets. The trick is to lay the tile out such that stubby tiles do not show up in highly visible spots. Once you have completed this, make two marks with a pencil outlining the most centered tile. These lines should be perpendicular to each other. Also take note of the wall that is most visible from all the others. Now remove the tiles. Next draw or snap a line perpendicular to this wall that is in line with one of the marks you made on the floor.
Then, draw a perpendicular line to this first line. This second line should be centered with the first line and fairly in line with the second mark you made on the floor. Once you have completed this task, re-layout some of the tiles along the perpendicular lines and observe if they run out in a way that will limit cutting and stubbed tiles. Once this is completed, remove the tiles and prepare for the actual installation.
Installing the Tile
Again, make sure the area is free of dirt and dust. Next apply the ceramic adhesive or mastic to the flooring, starting in the center, where the two perpendicular reference lines intersect. Apply enough material to cover 6-10 square feet, if no cuts are required. If cuts are required limit the amount of mastic application to about 2-4 square feet. When applying the mastic, first spread it with the flat end of the trowel. Lay it on relatively thick, approximately 1/8” to 3/16”thick. Then turn the trowel around and run the notched edge over it. This creates ridges in the mastic that helps to hold the tile down more securely. The larger the tile, the larger the notches should be. For example, I use a ¼” notched trowel for 12” x 12” tiles.
Note: Only make up enough ceramic adhesive for 30 minutes, as this material has the tendency to harden up rather quickly.
Once the adhesive has been applied, begin installing the tiles working from the center outward. On larger tiles you should back butter them. Basically, apply a thin coating of mastic to the back of the tile prior to laying it on the floor. This will help ensure a good bond.
As you near the walls or edges of cabinets, tubs and toilets, you will need to cut some of the tiles. I highly recommend the use of a Wet-Saw. A Wet-Saw will allow you to make very accurate cuts, both large and small. You will also save money, as you will waste many fewer tiles with bad cuts or broken tiles. Wet-Saws are not that expensive and once you see your finished product you will certainly be installing more tile. Wet-Saws can also be rented as a cheaper alternative.
When applying Tiles, you may want to use Lugs. Lugs are effectively spacers that come in various thicknesses. I typically like to have no more than a ¼” space between the tiles. Employing Spacers will ensure uniformity with your tile spacing.
Grouting
After the Tile has been completely installed, allow it to sit for 24-48 hours before applying grout and walking on it. Grout comes in many different colors and is very easy to install. Simply mix the grout with water or a special bonding agent and apply with a rubber trowel. Run the trowel on a bias when going over tile corners.
Once the grout has been applied, immediately wipe the tile of excess grout, using a wet sponge and a bucket of water. Wait 30 minutes and again wipe the tiles down of any residual grout. Wait another 60 minutes and repeat. If grout is left on the tiles to dry, you will have a great deal of elbow work scraping it off.
Let the grout sit up for 24 hours and it is ready for use and admiration.
Both Skg9 & Mark Donovan are contributors for EditorialToday. The above articles have been edited for relevancy and timeliness. All write-ups, reviews, tips and guides published by EditorialToday.com and its partners or affiliates are for informational purposes only. They should not be used for any legal or any other type of advice. We do not endorse any author, contributor, writer or article posted by our team.
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