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Installing Under Cabinet Lighting

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Carpenters and designers are often challenged when it comes to locating a fixed shelf lighting source that will conceal itself as much as possible and also provide a means of concealing the wiring from public view. Retrofitting new cabinet light fixtures to existing cabinets can be even more of a challenge if the unit has been built with glass shelves, or shelves that lack horizontal reveals along their front edges.



In such instances, carpenters and designers can achieve optimal results when they use custom fixed library shelf lighting fixtures individually sized to individual shelves and vertical styles. Flexibility in transformer placement and wiring configurations are also essential to mounting these fixtures in as near a perfect fit as possible.

Phantom fixed shelf lighting fixtures are intended to give carpenters and designers the ability to custom design the interior illumination of their cabinets to the same degree they custom design the cabinets themselves. These in cabinet light fixtures are custom manufactured with a variety of trims and can be mounted either horizontally or vertically. This allows for a much wider range of cabinet lighting options, because most fixed shelf units and almost all units that require retrofit lighting are very often constructed with a higher level of customized cuts, builds, and stylized designs than we typically see in standard adjustable shelf cabinets.

There are a number of ways Phantom fixed shelf lighting can be adapted to any type of cabinet that has a solid back plane. For example, if a cabinet has no reveals on the fronts of the shelves, there are two ways we can conceal our lights in such a space. One way would be to add a reveal to the front of each shelf that would conceal the display lighting fixtures behind its façade. Or, depending on the color of the wood, we can finish the painted trim to match the shelf to make the fixture appear as the equivalent of a reveal.

However, some carpenters may prefer to avoid making alterations to the shelves. In these instances, we would recommend using vertically-mounted light strips that are concealed along the interior of the styles. Again, there are multiple ways we can customize fixed shelf lighting to match the dimensions and features of the specific cabinet. If a continuous vertical strip is to be run from top to bottom, we can notch the trims on the linear light fixtures to fit around the shelves. If there is no available space between the shelves and the vertical style, then we can use segmented fixtures spaced between individual shelves.

Fixed shelf lighting can be even more challenging when the cabinet is built with hinged doors without vertical styles. Concealing light fixtures in this type of cabinet requires mounting a continuous vertical segment to the door frame itself. This will, of course, expose the glare shield when the door is open, but it will conceal the entirety of the fixture itself once the door is closed. We have many glare shield trim colors to choose from for these situations.

In cases where the cabinet is over 30” wide, and the application is best suited for vertical mounting, we have a center mount trim that attaches to the door itself. This is useful when lighting cabinets and bookcases displaying solid objects such as china, vases, sculptures or books which may block the light and produce shadows. A center mount trim requires special wiring provisions to allow slack in the wiring to accommodate the door movement.

Hinges are a challenge for fixed shelf cabinet lighting installations. Newer European hinges, although effective, can be quite large and pose obstructions when installing a continuous strip. Under this condition, we typically custom space the lamps around the hinges and notch the glare shield to maintain a finished look.
Installing Under Cabinet Lighting
Now that you’ve picked out the hardware of your dreams, you need only to install them to finish the look of your cabinets. If you’ve never installed hardware before, you might be intimidated by the idea of using a level or marking off the correct spots for placement; you might be particularly intimidated by the thought of using the dreaded drill.

Take a breath before you begin and don’t worry about the task ahead. The entire process is easy and fairly quick. Make sure to have the following tools on hand as you start. This will ensure a smooth process and will diminish the chance of a mishap.

1.Drill (most commonly a 3/16" drill bit)

2.Level

3.Marker

4.Masking tape

5.Nail or center punch (to make an indentation for where to start the drilling)

6.Screwdriver (Phillips or flathead depending on your specific hardware)

Knobs or handles

Whether you are installing knobs or handles, you should first try to choose a piece that has the same drill center(s) as the existing hardware. If you are choosing hardware for cabinets that haven’t been drilled before, knobs are the easiest choice since they have only one screw. Some types of knobs and handles come with attached screws, making a simple procedure even more effortless.

If you’ve chosen to install pulls or handles, you’ll need to measure the distance between the drill centers. Do not measure the length of the handle, as the handle itself may extend beyond the drill centers.

Let the installation begin

Solid wooden cabinets and drawers might split as a result of drilling into them. In order to avoid this, refrain from drilling holes closer than an inch from the edge.

Standard contemporary flat-panel doors are complemented nicely by knobs installed 1 ½" to 2" from the open corner of the door. Pulls should be installed 2" – 4" from the bottom horizontal edge of the door and 2" from the open vertical edge. After you’ve marked off the correct places for drilling, simply drill holes and insert the hardware screws into the holes. Match up the screws and the handle or knob and, using your screwdriver, tighten until the hardware doesn’t wobble.

In general, cabinet doors are made of the ¾" lumber; in this situation, the standard 1" screw will fit perfectly. Drawers with applied faces, for example, might be thicker than usual and will likely require longer screws. When purchasing hardware, be sure to specify to the vendor your special requirements.

Now, with all of this new information, you are ready to get busy! Install your new hardware and give your cabinets a facelift. Who knew that such a straightforward process could yield such beautiful results?

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Both Russell Neal & Leah Perry are contributors for EditorialToday. The above articles have been edited for relevancy and timeliness. All write-ups, reviews, tips and guides published by EditorialToday.com and its partners or affiliates are for informational purposes only. They should not be used for any legal or any other type of advice. We do not endorse any author, contributor, writer or article posted by our team.

Russell Neal has sinced written about articles on various topics from Home Management, Architecture and Arts. . For more information on
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