Aga Muhammed Khan, founder of the Qajar dynasty, chose Tehran as the capital of the Persian Empire in 1795, largely because of its location on the cool Elbur hillsides. And so it has remained to this very day. Only after a terrible earthquake in May 2004 was there heated discussion of moving the seat of government from Tehran to a less earthquake prone region of the country.



Palaces and museums

The bulk of Tehran's older buildings date back to the period of Qajar rule in the nineteenth century. Foremost among these structures is the Golestan, or Rose Garden Palace, the old seat of the shahs until 1979. Today it serves as a museum, and its most famous exhibit is the stunning Peacock Throne.

Exactly 26,733 precious stones decorate this sumptuous throne of the former Persian rulers. While there are always crowds in the museum, the palace garden is a peaceful and beautiful oasis in the heart of Tehran. The Iranian capital has a large number of museums worth seeing in addition to the Golestan Palace, including the Archaeological Museum and the National Museum. Many other cultural sites are inviting and worthy of a visit.

Tehran's bazaar is legendary and one of the biggest in the world. The traditional Zurkhaneh (House of Strength) in the center of the bazaar is a special kind of sports venue: up to twenty five athletes at a time emulate their forebears, swinging maces and rings to the accompaniment of drums and tribal songs. This distinct form of athleticism, called bastani in Persian, originated under the yoke of the Mongols, who forbad the locals to engage in any kind of physical training. The Persians trained in secret in order to be ready for the day when they would free themselves from Mongolian rule.

Modern Tehran

Impressive testaments to Persian rule in this city include not only historical monuments and the traditional souk, but also numerous modern structures. The symbol of modern Iran is a more recent building, the Shahyad (Freedom) Tower on Azadi Square, built in 1971 during the reign of the last shah.

From the observation deck one has an engaging vista of the entire city, and can see all the way to the distant, snow capped Elbur Mountains. Another important symbol of the Islamic Republic of Iran, the Ayatollah Khomeini Mausoleum, is located in southern part of the city. Four narrow minarets, each 90 metres high, surround its shining gold cupola.

Those who would prefer to leave the noise of the city head out of Tehran travelling north, toward Darband and Darrake at the foot of Tochal Mountain in the Elbur Range. While en route through the northern neighbourhoods of Tehran, a visit to the Saadabad Palace, the summer residence of the last shah, is definitely worth making.

Once you reach your final destination, there is a chance to enjoy the clear mountain air and to sojourn at one of many traditional cafes and restaurants. For a taste of adventure, you can also take the longest cable car ride in the world up Mt. Tochal, and come down via one of the five ski slopes.