Like all truly amazing places, Railay is no secret, and the loss of anonymity is the price paid. People first started climbing the towering limestone cliffs in the late 1980s, when a local Thai climber named King began putting up the first routes around Railay and Ton Sai. Though originally just another of Thailand's amazing beaches, word soon spread about the glorious climbing to be found in Krabi. Photos were passed around, articles written, and now the area is one of the premier winter climbing destinations on the planet.



The best thing about rock climbing in Railay is that there are hundreds of routes with all levels of difficulty. Complete beginners can have just as much fun as seasoned climbers, and with some ten climbing schools on this tiny beach, it's no problem finding an experienced guide to show you the ropes. ?I came here with my girlfriend who has never climbed before,? said one American, ?but after a 3-day course with Kings Climbers we're now doing 5c routes together.?

With more than 650 established routes already in place, and more being put up every season, the sheer quantity and quality of the climbing in Railay is mind-blowing. They use the French grading system to rate the routes, which range from easy 5a walkups to intense multi-pitch 8c's which will challenge even the greatest climbers. ?I've climbed some serious stuff,? admitted one French climber, ?but taking a boat out to a 7c karst, ripping it up then unclipping and doing a cannonball into the sea is a one-of-a-kind.?

Whatever you want, Railay can produce the goods. Sheer limestone crags, gnarly overhangs, hanging stalactites and even just good old fashioned bouldering are all in abundance in this climber's playground. With perfect winter temperatures, many climbers who can, opt to spent the whole winter season from November to April hanging out on the beach, climbing, sea kayaking and snorkelling. With a large selection of affordable bungalows, relatively cheap food and beer, it's not hard to imagine yourself in such a situation.

But it's not all about rock climbing in Railay. Most of the visitors come for the incredible scenery, great water sports and lively nightlife. Plenty of serious climbers hate the partying aspect of Railay, but most enjoy the option. ?Sex, sand and climbing,? claims one long-term seasonal resident. ?What's not to like?? Indeed, most people concur. With so many climbs to choose from, you can take an easy day hitting a mellow 6a, then a bit of snorkelling before dancing the night away with dozens of single beautiful people on the beach. Or pound out a monumental 8a climb, then reward yourself with a cold beer in your hammock as the sun sinks into the Andaman Sea. The options are endless.

But the winter high season brings hoards of tourists to Railay, something which no climber enjoys. Like all stunning places on the earth, the beauty of Railay is well-known. From December to March every bungalow is filled, and you can see backpackers sleeping on the beach in the hope of scoring a room in the morning if someone decides to leave. This is the curse of popularity, and it has created the impetus to find new climbing areas.

Already, a new hot spot has been discovered about two hours south of Railay along the coast which shall remain unnamed. Routes have been bolted and maps drawn up. Now the soul climbers have a new playground where climbing is the only game in town. Of course, this will only last until the first bungalows begin to go up. After that, it's time to share the toys.