Boarding the Catalina Express at Dana Point, we have the feeling we're going to escape Southern California traffic and congestion in VERY short order. We are right. Within minutes, we're "at sea" in the channel between Los Angeles and Catalina Island - no horns honking, no crawling along the freeway and no worries.



We're on our way to Avalon, the picturesque little town built near the southern tip of Catalina Island. It's just a 75-minute ride from the dock at Dana Point, and even a shorter distance from other points closer to L.A. Our slight trepidation about potential seasickness quickly evaporates as we see how well our sleek craft cuts through the moderate waves on what will become a perfect sunny Southern California day.

Along the way we see merchant vessels as well as a half-dozen or so 30-odd-foot pleasure craft obviously rigged for fishing and congregating at what must be a prime fishing ground. Later, to the port side we run a race with dozens of dolphins who seem intent on showing that anything man can do, they can do better.

Arriving in Avalon, the colorful, ornate - and, yes, expensive -- homes arrayed on hillsides and mountain tops combine with the myriad of boats and other sea-going vessels to create the impression we have just been transported to the French Riviera. Not bad considering a roundtrip ticket on the Express was only about 45 bucks and when all is said and done, we'll be home tonight for dinner.

But it's obvious from the gear being packed off the Express that there are many more overnighters than daytrippers. On this particular voyage, the hold is chock-full of suitcases, packs, tents, coolers and everything that would allow one to wander off and get to know the island upclose and personal.

For us it's a quick diversion from the rat race. We soon get our bearings on Crescent Street, the aptly-named street that follows the contour of the harbor. About six streets intersect with Crescent, all heading mauka (island-speak for "toward the mountains"). It's in this tiny little grid that you find most of the shops, restaurants and other tourist services.

We're traveling as a family today - mom, dad and three-year-old - so it's a burger joint for lunch. But the burgers are tasty and quite reasonably priced. You'll also be able to find finer dining and pricey menus to go with it.

On this warm summer day there is an abundance of families visiting with kids of all ages. But it's also not difficult to find couples holding hands or checking into one of several boutique inns, or frolicking in the unusually warm ocean. In fact, it's not much of a stretch to say that Catalina is good for both romantic couples and families. They peacefully co-exist on this little island, and neither experience seems negatively impacted by the other.

As Gwen Bronson explains, there are many opportunities for a couple to slip away on the island and do what romantics do. The many hotels and inns, just by themselves, are pretty darn romantic and, as Communications Director for the Catalina Chamber of Commerce, Gwen's doing her job to point that out. But she's also figuring we might want to look at one of several romantic adventures such as sea kayaking up the coast. In a very short distance you will find a beach that is not accessible by anyone who does not have a boat.

"Just visit the market and pick up your picnic lunch first and go about a half hour up the coast," she says. "Ninety-nine percent of the time, you'll have the whole beach to yourself."

Or rent a golf cart and drive the many roads around Avalon - just $40 an hour. Horseback riding is always good for a romantic mood, as long as it doesn't create any physical limitations. Botanical gardens are here for communing with Nature.

Like most visitors to Catalina, we find plenty to keep us occupied for the day. We enjoy people-watching in the outdoor cafes and exploring the winding roadways that climb out of Avalon to spectacular views of the harbor. In general, we just soak up this island atmosphere, recognizing it may be a while longer before we get back to the real French Riviera or anywhere else in the world with such island charm.

Our day on the island goes by quickly and the trip back to Dana Point is a relaxing end to a perfect Southern California daytrip. Soon we are back in San Diego, completely refreshed and relaxed, and ready to share stories about our daytrip to the "Riviera".

AT A GLANCE

Where: Catalina Island is about 26 miles west of the L.A. area. There are four boat companies that service Catalina from seven ports in Orange and Los Angeles counties.

What: Catalina Island offers many recreational activities ranging from deep-sea fishing to horseback riding to hiking to snorkeling. There are also many attractions such as submarine rides and golf cart rentals.

When: Catalina is a great destination year-round, although the lowest prices are in the shoulder season, April-May and September-October. Most hotels offer lower prices then, but combo packages help reduce the overall cost of lodging and transportation any time of year. Several events are offered throughout the year, so check with the Chamber of Commerce for a listing.

Why: Catalina is close, easy to reach, incredibly picturesque and the perfect daytrip or getaway weekend for any living in or visiting Southern California.

How: Call the Catalina Chamber for a complete list of transportation and lodging options. Phone (310) 510-1520.