Brunello di Montalcino is one of those overnight successes that's been around for ages[md]literally. In 1970, the Biondi-Santi family (the leading producer in Montalcino) decided their wines could use some publicity. They invited some leading wine writers to a tasting of rare vintages. Needless to say, the 1888 and 1891 vintages were a smash! Brunello immediately became one of the most sought-after wines in Italy. Twelve years after its harvest, the 1971 reserve



bottling retailed in the U.S. for $130 a bottle. Even by the extravagant standards of the 80s, that was pretty pricey for a young wine in no way ready to drink.

There's been some mixed publicity for this DOCG wine. Not all bottlings were up to the prices they demanded. Now that the rage has died down, however, there is general agreement that Brunello di Montalcino has the potential to be one of the world's most superb and long-lived red wines. Prices begin at $25 to $40 a bottle and scale upward.

This variant on Chianti is a huge full-bodied and intense wine with concentration and astringent tannins that require aging of up to 20 years when traditionally made. The wine should be opened several hours before serving to receive adequate aeration. Some producers in Montalcino are now making a more approachable version of Brunello that is ready to drink in about five years. Rosso di Montalcino is a less expensive wine made from the same grapes, and the same production area as Brunello di Montalcino. Rosso di Montalcino from a good Brunello producer is a superb value at $10 to $15, providing you with a hint of what Brunello tastes like at an affordable price.

From vineyards surrounding the hill town of Montepulciano comes another red wine, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. Vino Nobile is close to a Chianti Classico, and responds better to aging. Its minimum age is two years -a riserva must have three years, and with four it can be designated riserva speciale. Just as there is a younger and lighter version of Brunello, there's a Vino Nobile version as well: Rosso di Montepulciano.

The Carmignano districtwest of Florence produces a red wine that owes a good part of its high quality to the incongruous but welcome presence of Cabernet Sauvignon. Essentially a Chianti with a French flair, Carmignano can be made with up to 10 percent of the noble Bordeaux grape.

Possibly a descendant of the white wine of the Etruscans, Vernaccia di San Gimignano bears the name of a medieval walled village west of the Chianti Classico zone. Vernaccia is vinified to be drunk young. It is a refreshing white wine with a slightly viscous texture with hints of almonds and nuts. Most Vernaccias are in the $6-to-$8 price range.