Unnecessary closing costs are charged to unsuspecting borrowers on almost all mortgages that close. Closing costs can be broken into three general categories, costs that the lender charges, costs that third parties charge and money that is paid on your behalf i.e. taxes and insurance. Due to the scope of this article, we are unable to go into detail in each category. However, there will be a link at the end of this article for a tutorial that does.
First and foremost, ?no closing costs loans? do not exist. Like the medical field, mortgages have become an industry of specialized sub-contractors, each sharing a piece of the pie. Most mortgage companies have contract underwriting, title companies, escrow agents and some even sub-out the processing. All of these services represent a cost to the lender, all lenders. Also included in that list is the appraisers, inspectors, surveyors, state taxes, local taxes and of course there are the escrows, thus we have closing costs.
In days gone by, banks would hold their loans to collect the interest and make a profit; this allowed them to recoup the closing cost over time. This isn't true anymore; banks now securitize their loans by selling them on Wall Street to raise capital to make more loans. Therefore, since the banks are not holding their loans to recoup the cost of originating the loan, the costs must be built into the interest rate or the closing costs. Now that we are clear on that, we can get on with the tips to avoid unnecessary closing costs.
Third Party Charges - When you take out a mortgage through a lender, nine out of ten times you will use their title company; this is the company that will charge you for the physical closing, the title and title insurance. For simplicity's sake, almost all lenders will use the same title company. Due to the captive nature of the title company's clients, namely you, they are free to charge whatever fees they like, and most of them do. Very few people scrutinize the title fees at the closing table; they are usually focused on the lender's fees.
One way that you can avoid unnecessary closing costs is to open up the phone book and shop different title companies. Before shopping, ask your lender for a ?fee sheet? from the title company he uses, he will know what you mean. Call different title companies and compare the rate sheets. Pay special attention to the title insurance, this is where most of the title companies like to over-charge. I have had borrowers save as much as $900 by using a different company.
Lender Charges - When you look at the good faith estimate before closing, and you'd better, you will see that all of the fees are grouped into sections, and each section has a corresponding set of numbers. For example, 800, 801, 802 and so on. For the most part, the lender only controls the 800 block of fees.?This is the place where you will find their ?junk-fees?; these are made up or unnecessary fees that the lender charges for additional profit.
Don't get me wrong, there are some legitimate fees in the 800 block like the origination fee, which can be negotiated, the appraisal fee, the discount fee and the credit report fee. There are other fees that nearly all lenders will charge; these are the processing fees and underwriting fees. Processing is a real cost to the lender and is understandable, however most mortgage companies have their loans underwritten my M.I. companies and this really doesn't represent a cost to them.
Unfortunately, these two fees are usually the ?house fees? and are not negotiable. However, most of the other fees that you will find in the 800 block of the good faith estimate are negotiable or just made up for additional profit. For example: the Lender Inspection fee, what are they trying to say; that they are going to charge you a fee to inspect the loan before you close it?
Below you will find a list of the line item numbers that I consider ?junk fees? or made up charges. When you look at the good faith estimate before you close, find the fees that are beside these numbers. I suggest that you demand that the lender remove most, if not all of these fees before you close. If the lender insists on charging a particular fee I would ask them for proof that it is a bona fide expense to them.
The fee numbers that I feel are unnecessary are: 805,806,807,808 (this is a real charge but it should have been included in the original quote), 810, 812 and 813. If you see any of these fees on your HUD before closing I suggest that you delay the closing until they are removed, unless, the lender can show you proof that these fees really exist. If you're interested in finding out more ways to avoid unnecessary closing costs you will find our tutorial interesting.
No Closing Costs Mortgages
FHA Closing costs differ from conventional mortgages by the amount the lender can charge and the amount of insurance coverage homeowners are required to have. FHA mortgages are the last of the government sponsored mortgages. Fannie and Freddie started out as a government charter but privatized over a decade ago. Since FHA is government operated, there are specific safeguards which have been designed to protect borrowers from paying too much closing costs. However, as is the case with most government programs, there's loopholes.
When lenders and brokers close a loan, they all incur cost during the process. These costs are passed along to the borrower in the form of higher rates, or closing costs that are added directly to the closing statement (HUD). In the past, lenders have been known to be very liberal when applying their fees; these extra charges are called ?junk fees.? Before you apply, you should insist that the lender disclose their fees on a form called good faith estimate (GFE, you can print a blank form from the link below.)
If you look at your GFE you will see a grouping of fees on the left hand side. Each fee is labeled 801, 802, and so on. These are the lenders fees. FHA has strict guidelines pertaining to the fees that lenders are allowed to charge when closing a loan. Unfortunately, they are very open-minded on the amount of discount points and origination points that they allow lenders to charge.
Lenders are allowed to charge one origination point and two discount points plus the ?usual and customary? third party closing costs that FHA deems relevant. If you combine those fees with the additional money that the lenders can earn from ?marking-up? the interest rate; lenders could make as much as $12,000 profit on a $200,000 loan.
In all fairness, most lenders don't fleece their customers like this, however some do. If you are considering taking out an FHA mortgage I advise you to look at your good faith estimate carefully. If you see discount points listed in the ?800? block of numbers do not close your loan. Some lenders will give very compelling arguments as to why they need to charge them, don't believe it. By disallowing the lender to use discount points, you have effectively forced them to keep their closing costs in-check.
Another difference in charges that you will see over conventional mortgages pertains to the insurance each agency requires when taking out the loan. Conventional mortgages (Fannie Mae, Freddie Mac) will allow borrowers to forego the mortgage insurance if the loan is less than 80% of the appraised value. Not so with FHA, when you take out an FHA mortgage you will be forced to have mortgage insurance regardless of the loan to value. The exception is when you take out a 15 year mortgage, if your loan is less that 90% of the value of the home you can forego the monthly mortgage insurance.
Also, FHA charges an up front mortgage insurance premium (MIP). This is a one time, lump sum that is added on top of your loan. The MIP is calculated at 1.5% of the mortgage's loan amount, i.e. a $100,000 mortgage would become a $101,500 loan amount. This premium is refundable on a prorated basis but, the formula that is used to calculate it is stored in the same warehouse that Indiana Jones keeps his worldly treasures.
When you begin to add up the differences between FHA closing costs and conventional mortgages, it would appear that FHA mortgages have the higher closing. However, it really depends on what your specific circumstances are as to whether or not an FHA mortgage is right for you. If you have good credit and a low loan to value, a conventional mortgage is definitely the best road to take. Even if your loan to value is a little high, you may still want to consider a conventional mortgage. A conventional mortgage charges PMI just like an FHA loan does, however it can be easily removed one the home falls below 80% loan to value, unlike FHA mortgage insurance.
On the other hand, if you have average credit and a higher loan to value FHA becomes the clear winner when choosing the most beneficial loan. The most important reason is that FHA is not a credit score driven product. FHA is a common-sense loan, meaning your credit score doesn't have a bearing on your ability to get approved. FHA looks at the property, the income, the job stability and the overall responsibility the borrower has exercised in the last year. Of course there are more guidelines, but you get my point. Not to mention that FHA allows homebuyers to put as little as 3% down when buying a home.
Aubrey Clark has sinced written about articles on various topics from Credit Cards, Home loans and Finances. Aubrey Clark is an editor for Lendfast.com, a and lives in Atlanta Georgia with his wife and four children. If you're interested in fin. Aubrey Clark's top article generates over 14800 views. to your Favourites.
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