Nandi Hills has absolutely flat surrounding plains, just outside Bangalore. These are not gently rolling hills, but giant, 2,000-ft granite monolith towering over you that seems to appear from nowhere. The effect is magical.
The hills get their name from the beautiful statue of Nandi standing guard outside the Yoganandeeshwara Temple atop the hills. Elsewhere, the peaks give birth to the rivers Arakavati, Pennar and Palar. Nandi Hills has for long attracted a loyal following among royalty and commoners alike. Tipu Sultan, who ruled Mysore in the late 18th century, came here to recover from the din of battle. He fortified Nandi Hills, and made it his summer heaven. The Brits took over Nandi Hills, looking for the salubrious climate of their homeland. Sir Mark Cubbon, former commissioner of Bangalore, made it his official summer residence. Many bungalows the Brits built still pepper the hills. Dignitaries, including Mahatma Gandhi, Jawaharlal Nehru and Queen Elizabeth have since visited. The point of all this name-dropping is that, with cobbled paths leading up to hills full of birdsong, Nandi Hills is a good getaway for you and your family too.
THINGS TO SEE AND DO
Reaching the top is easy as there's a good, motorable road going all the way up. If you are in need of a drastic workout, take the steep flight of 1,175 steps from the base of the hills to the top. Nandi Hills is the place where laziness can be perfected into an art form. The most strenuous activities here are long ambles along the walkways meandering along the hills.
Tipu's drop
Tipu's Drop a near 2,000 ft-high sheer cliff has a gory past. It is the place from where convicted prisoners would be hurled to their death by Tipu Sultan's decree.
If you want to get the best out of Tipu's Drop, wait until the last tour bus departs with its cargo of noisy day-trippers. Then watch the dusk paint the horizon in vibrant colours. As the dusk melts, the lights of Bangalore become visible in the distance. The city sparkles beneath you like a giant rangoli decorated with diyas.
Yoganandeeshwara Temple
This temple-the abode of Shiva the ascetic-at the top of the hills was built by the Cholas. The two dwarpalakas guarding the entrance to the sanctum sanctorum merit quite some attention. This ancient temple also has an inscription in the name of Sambhaji, son of Chhatrapati Shivaji.
Amrita Sarovar
This large tank is fed by perennial springs, and is called the lake of ambrosia! Visit it at night, when it shimmers in the moonlight. Nearby lies the chabootara or platform where Tipu Sultan used to pray.
Nehru Nilaya
This is the house Nehru lived in, now a guesthouse belonging to the Horticulture Department. Entry fee 50 cents, Timings 8 am to 10 pm.
Bhoganandeeshwara Temple
This temple, at the base of the Nandi Hills, dates back to the period of the Bana Dynasty, but was rebuilt over the centuries by Chola, Hoysala and Vijayanagara kings. The Nandi here is massive. Locals refer to Bhoganandeeshwara as the doddu (big) Nandi and Yoganandeeshwara as the chikka (small) Nandi
WHERE TO STAY AND EAT
Nandi Hills has only two accommodation options. Karnataka Tourism's Hotel Mayura Pine Top is located in a nice wooded area close to Tipu's Drop, but is under renoya-tion until June 2004. Nehru Nilaya, the Horticultural Department Guest House rents rooms. Book from the Directoror of Horticulture, Lalbagh, Bangalore. Hotel Mayuraha has a bar and restaurant. There are other seasonal places run by locals that rustle up good fare.
AROUND NANDI HILLS
Muddenahalli (12km)
This is the hometown of M Vishveswaraya, whose creations include architectural masterpieces like Bangalore's Vidhana Soudha and the Brindavan Gardens. .
Getting there: Route from Bangalore NH to Devanahalli via Yelahanha; state roads to Nandi hills via Betta
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