Traditional Formal Wear Etiquette



Even in men`s formal wear, there is etiquette to what is appropriate to wear depending on the formality of the wedding and the time of day.

When it comes to informal weddings almost anything goes, usually however, unless there is a particular theme or style, the groom will typically wear a suit.

For a formal morning to mid-afternoon wedding the Cutaway and Stroller are the tuxedos of choice. In the case of a very formal wedding, held in the morning to mid-afternoon, the groom will usually wear the Cutaway (a coat which tapers back from the front waist button, into a wide back tail). This coat can be worn with matching or striped pants. With this very formal wedding the attendants may wear the same ensemble with possible variation in the shirt or tie. Most often for these weddings the attendants will wear the matching Stroller coat to the Cutaway. A variety of ties and shirts are available, as well as, matching or striped pants.

The semi-formal and formal evening weddings offers choice of Stroller, Dinner Jacket (a white or ivory jacket with black formal trousers - worn in spring or summer months in some areas) or "Black Tie" a single or double-breasted black jacket with matching trousers.

For the ultra formal evening wedding (held after 6:00pm) the classic "White Tie" is in order. For this most formal wedding the groom and all of his attendants are donned in a black tailcoat (waist length in front with two long back tails). A white pique wing collar shirt, white pique vest and white pique tie is worn. Fancy studs and cufflinks are worn in place of buttons and patent leather shoes complete the ensemble. The boutonnieres are the only difference in the outfit between groom and groomsmen.

While these rules of formal wear etiquette may sound stifling, there are still many choices that are appropriate and with the help of the formal wear experts couples will add a specialized style to any wedding.

Additional Formal Wear Terminology

Tuxedos, shirts, ties, vests, and cummerbunds come in a variety of fabrics, colors and styles. Besides the tuxedo jacket terms above, couples may learn other terms to help in their formal wear selection.

Lapels of jackets come in three basic cuts; notch lapel in which a sharp triangular shape is formed where the lapel joins the collar, peak lapel is a broad shaped lapel that points up and outward just below the collar line, shawl is a smooth rounded lapel that encompasses the collar all in one.

Three basic styles of shirts include the classic formal shirt which has white buttons or stud closures, with little spacing between each side of the collar and is usually pleated on both sides. The spread collar shirt is similar to a typical man`s dress shirt with a collar that folds over and has a wide space between each side of the collar. The third is the wing collar which has a small triangular shape at each edge of the collar. The tie can be a four-in-hand (a typical long necktie), a bow tie (a short tie shaped like a bow) or an ascot (a wide necktie with a scarf-like appearance that is looped over and held in place with a stickpin or tie tack).

A vest or cummerbund is chosen to complete the look. Vests are cut in different ways, usually dependent on the design of the jacket it is worn with. The cummerbund is an alternative to the vest and is basically a pleated sash that is worn at the waist and covers the waistband.

The basic cut of the jacket can help to minimize or maximize the look a dapper groom is trying to achieve. Single breasted, double breasted, elongated coats and waist coats, are some varieties, each with benefits of fit for varying body types. Couples are wise to let the formal wear experts help to make choices that are stylish, flattering and give the groom the "I do" to looking great!